Just wondering if anybody has heard of ayone trying to tap the metal cap on the end of the stock fuel rails? Kind of like what these company does to make heated Silverado fuel rails:



I picked up a couple Bosch 044 pumps and I was contemplating running them individualy with -6 AN hose to each fuel rail by replacing the crossover tube with 3/8" tube to -6 AN male adapters on each side. I can pick up the 3/8 tube with the qickrelease tab at Napa and then I'd just cut them off an 1" on each side of the raised tab so I could clamp on the -6 AN adapter and plug them in to the original crossover tube inlet holes. Then I could tie the rails together on the front end with a Aeromotive FPR (like the Camaro/Corvette guys usually do). It looks like a 1/4" NPT tap would work nicely on the fuel rail endcaps and then I'd just use a 1/4" NPT male to -6 AN male adapter to tie the FPR to both rails.

Rick

 

We have done this with a few of our Hemi applications. We cut the ends off the stock fuel rails and insert a steel 3/8 pipe thread to a -6 coupler and then braze the fitting to the fuel rail.

 

The Silverado fuel rails are plastic except for a metal cap at each end so I think brazing is out. I postedt eh question because I'm not sure if there will be enough meat to tap it. Fuel rails are dirt cheap and I have an extra '02 return rail laying around in the garage so I'll give it a try. I imagine all need to use some Goop to make sure it's 100% sealed.

Rick

 

In that case I would so no. The penalty is too high if the threads let go.

 

Why couldnt you weld in some fittings?

 

Plastic + welding = melted.

 

The metal cap on the end of the rail?

 

I was also considering soldering (ala copper water pipes + solder + flux) instead of using Goop. The heat is pretty low with Propane so I think I couls wrap the plastic with a wet rag and keep it cool.

I know Goop works great with Methanol but I wasn;t sure how well it works with Gasoline.

Rick

 

Anything other than copper to copper requires silver solder and at least 1200*F with acetylene. The plastic will melt long before the solder will.

 

That's why I'm not a plumber by trade... Looks like I'm back to using Goop.

Rick