Any tips on cam, springs & other valvetrain, crank pin kit for Radix?
09-03-2010, 11:21 PM
#32
My previous PB was 14.8, & it still is. 
After trans & stall. These were all done in a 1 hour period, since track was closing. I got in 5 runs. Here ya go. BTW, I'd hoped after stall I was gonna run 14.6-14.8.
60's were 2.205 - 2.25. A worst of 2.38, I don't even know what I did here, no doubt a mistake on my part, so I'll throw that out.
2.23 60' pretty consistently.
-1/8 Mile: 9.71, 9.72, 9.69, 9.62, & 9.78.
-1/8 MPH: 72.43, 72.58, 72.81, 73.37, & 72.81.
-1/4 ET: 15.13 twice, 15.085, 15.008, 15.14
-1/4 MPH: 89.08, 89.43, 89.65, 89.68, 90.17
I never to this day, looked up DA, cause I was pretty disappointed.
After trans & stall. These were all done in a 1 hour period, since track was closing. I got in 5 runs. Here ya go. BTW, I'd hoped after stall I was gonna run 14.6-14.8.
60's were 2.205 - 2.25. A worst of 2.38, I don't even know what I did here, no doubt a mistake on my part, so I'll throw that out.
2.23 60' pretty consistently.
-1/8 Mile: 9.71, 9.72, 9.69, 9.62, & 9.78.
-1/8 MPH: 72.43, 72.58, 72.81, 73.37, & 72.81.
-1/4 ET: 15.13 twice, 15.085, 15.008, 15.14
-1/4 MPH: 89.08, 89.43, 89.65, 89.68, 90.17
I never to this day, looked up DA, cause I was pretty disappointed.
Last edited by fastnblu; 09-05-2010 at 10:06 AM.
09-03-2010, 11:42 PM
#33
Tom, if the adapter you’re referring to is the one for the installer; it’s the M16 x 2.0 one.
The two oiling passages, which you are going to slide the rods into sometimes having casting flash in them and on some motor’s can give you a hard time sliding the rods all the way to the back of the block. You know how shallow the groves are on the side of a lifter (not very deep), so there is not much room for error. It will take a 5/16" rod at minimum to do the job, but allot of people get a 3/8" rod and grind down one side, so there is a snug fit. As mentioned, the wooden dowel rods are easy to work with. The metal rods that are available are made the same way, flat on one side. On some motors the 5/16" rod will not lock the lifters up due to differences in tolerances. The 3/8" rod will, but won't fit without the machining off of one side. You can get a feel for how the 5/16" rod will work by locking all the lifters up and then try and push them back down with the pushrod before you pull the cam. Of course if they just slide right back down onto the cam you will know you need the 3/8" rod. Also if want, before you install the rods, you can try to push down on the pushrods and if it feels like it takes a decent amount of pressure to push them down in the retainers, you can feel pretty safe about the whole deal. The only problem is with motors as old as ours the plastic retainers might not have as good a grip as they should. I hope all that make’s sense.
The two oiling passages, which you are going to slide the rods into sometimes having casting flash in them and on some motor’s can give you a hard time sliding the rods all the way to the back of the block. You know how shallow the groves are on the side of a lifter (not very deep), so there is not much room for error. It will take a 5/16" rod at minimum to do the job, but allot of people get a 3/8" rod and grind down one side, so there is a snug fit. As mentioned, the wooden dowel rods are easy to work with. The metal rods that are available are made the same way, flat on one side. On some motors the 5/16" rod will not lock the lifters up due to differences in tolerances. The 3/8" rod will, but won't fit without the machining off of one side. You can get a feel for how the 5/16" rod will work by locking all the lifters up and then try and push them back down with the pushrod before you pull the cam. Of course if they just slide right back down onto the cam you will know you need the 3/8" rod. Also if want, before you install the rods, you can try to push down on the pushrods and if it feels like it takes a decent amount of pressure to push them down in the retainers, you can feel pretty safe about the whole deal. The only problem is with motors as old as ours the plastic retainers might not have as good a grip as they should. I hope all that make’s sense.
09-03-2010, 11:45 PM
#34
After trans & stall. These were all done in a 1 hour period, since track was closing. I got in 5 runs. Here ya go. BTW, I'd hoped after stall I was gonna run 14.6-14.8.
60's were 2.205 - 2.25. A worst of 2.38, I don't even know what I did here, no doubt a mistake on my part, so I'll throw that out.
2.23 60' pretty consistently.
-1/8 Mile: 9.71, 9.72, 9.69, 9.62, & 9.78.
-1/8 MPH: 72.43, 72.58, 72.81, 73.37, & 72.81.
-1/4 ET: 15.13 twice, 15.085, 15.008, 15.14
-1/4 MPH: 89.08, 89.43, 89.65, 89.68, 90.17
I never to this day, looked up DA, cause I was pretty disappointed.
[/QUOTE]Well, that converter you have isn't doing you any favors. It's not quite as efficient as your stock converter (as evidenced by the dyno) and it's proven not to stall high enough to make a difference compared to the stock one at the track. My personal opinion on the matter is you would have been just as good off with the stock converter for your ultimate setup.
09-04-2010, 12:06 AM
#35
Tom, if the adapter you’re referring to is the one for the installer; it’s the M16 x 2.0 one.
The two oiling passages, which you are going to slide the rods into sometimes having casting flash in them and on some motor’s can give you a hard time sliding the rods all the way to the back of the block. You know how shallow the groves are on the side of a lifter (not very deep), so there is not much room for error. It will take a 5/16" rod at minimum to do the job, but alot of people get a 3/8" rod and grind down one side, so there is a snug fit. As mentioned, the wooden dowel rods are easy to work with. The metal rods that are available are made the same way, flat on one side. On some motors the 5/16" rod will not lock the lifters up due to differences in tolerances. The 3/8" rod will, but won't fit without the machining off of one side. You can get a feel for how the 5/16" rod will work by locking all the lifters up and then try and push them back down with the pushrod before you pull the cam. Of course if they just slide right back down onto the cam you will know you need the 3/8" rod. Also if want, before you install the rods, you can try to push down on the pushrods and if it feels like it takes a decent amount of pressure to push them down in the retainers, you can feel pretty safe about the whole deal. The only problem is with motors as old as ours the plastic retainers might not have as good a grip as they should. I hope all that make’s sense.
The two oiling passages, which you are going to slide the rods into sometimes having casting flash in them and on some motor’s can give you a hard time sliding the rods all the way to the back of the block. You know how shallow the groves are on the side of a lifter (not very deep), so there is not much room for error. It will take a 5/16" rod at minimum to do the job, but alot of people get a 3/8" rod and grind down one side, so there is a snug fit. As mentioned, the wooden dowel rods are easy to work with. The metal rods that are available are made the same way, flat on one side. On some motors the 5/16" rod will not lock the lifters up due to differences in tolerances. The 3/8" rod will, but won't fit without the machining off of one side. You can get a feel for how the 5/16" rod will work by locking all the lifters up and then try and push them back down with the pushrod before you pull the cam. Of course if they just slide right back down onto the cam you will know you need the 3/8" rod. Also if want, before you install the rods, you can try to push down on the pushrods and if it feels like it takes a decent amount of pressure to push them down in the retainers, you can feel pretty safe about the whole deal. The only problem is with motors as old as ours the plastic retainers might not have as good a grip as they should. I hope all that make’s sense.
I could get both 5/16" & 3/8 & return whichever I don't need. I don't wanna go for parts / tool run once I start.
I'll prolly call ya tomorrow. Hope all is well w/ your goings on.
...
Well, that converter you have isn't doing you any favors. It's not quite as efficient as your stock converter (as evidenced by the dyno) and it's proven not to stall high enough to make a difference compared to the stock one at the track. My personal opinion on the matter is you would have been just as good off with the stock converter for your ultimate setup.
Well, that converter you have isn't doing you any favors. It's not quite as efficient as your stock converter (as evidenced by the dyno) and it's proven not to stall high enough to make a difference compared to the stock one at the track. My personal opinion on the matter is you would have been just as good off with the stock converter for your ultimate setup.
09-04-2010, 05:49 PM
#40
How much material would u say is removed? Say 1/16, cause now it kinda sounds like a 5/16" dowel again. Not tryin to be a smart Alec.
Mike, your cheapo $.75 one from HD is now .89. I almost couldn't afford it.
Out of almost 100 dowels, 4 were straight.
It's made outta Poplar, which altho it's a hardwood, it's a soft hardwood. They're 4' long, so I'll cut in 1/2.
Other option was Red Oak, a 3 footer is $1.09. So, if u neeed (2) 2 footers, now your cost is $2.18. But it's harder & still not made here.
Those JPR metal rods from Thunder Racing that are specifically made for this aren't $50, they're $105.
Last edited by fastnblu; 09-04-2010 at 05:55 PM. Reason: Edit: JPR rods are $105 at this time.