I used 2.5" V-bands for the cross over and 2.5" SS .065 mandrel bent exhaust pipe for most of it. On the side, there is some 2" Sch 10 SS for a portion of the piping. There is a little bit of a gap but not that bad. OD of 2" Sch 10 is like 2.3"~ ish.

1.5 Sch 10 has a 1.90 OD and 1.75 ID, so it's perfect for V8's. ID on the 2" is a little over 2".

 

I have a Lincoln Invertec 205. Here's what I use for the Sch 10 1.5" and 2".

Torch: wp 17 (non flex or valve)
Tungsten: 3/32" Red
Back cap: Full length
Cup: # 8 with gas lens
Gas: Argon @ 15~20 CFH
Rod: 0.040" 309 or 316 rod for the pipe joints and 1/16" 309 or 316 for pipe to flange.
Peak (regular) amperage: 125 amps
Pulse Frequency: 1.1/sec
Low amperage: 10 amps
Post flow: 8 seconds

For 0.065" SS exhaust pipe, peak amperage is set down to 80 amps, everything else is the same. 0.040" rod is a little big, so I recommend suing 0.035" or smaller, but it's hard to get your hands on unless you order online. You can always go pick up a roll of .030 SS mig wire, which works fine too.

 

You the man. Thanks for elaborating. Exactly what I was looking for.

I'm going to pull the trigger here soon and get to practicing

 

4l80 is back in. did some pump mods and it seems to be good. Magically, it shifted out of OD. Driving last night... which is a known problem.

Seems to be a few things to try. I read Tps, brake switch, shift solenoids, pressure control switch, internal wiring harnes, etc. 4th clutches looked fine so I don't think that's it. All the gears are fine including OD while driving and shifting. It did this after about 20 min of normal driving. I was causing at about 60 and it kicked it down to 3rd. Doesn't even try to go into 4th. So slipping observed.

Anyone have any suggestions where to start? Im thinking it just happens when it's warm. I'll need to confrim later tonight. It's a 1995.

Thanks,

 

so... the OD shifting had to do with the TPS. I guess it's looking for a .040-.050V at rest. Mine was at .051 at rest. adjusted it down to .048 and its good to go.

I wish I had a cool update, but my buddy has the truck for a while. We're throwing a LSJ 2.0 Ecotec turbo engine in it.

It was kind of funny. I got it running on a Sunday, he came over a dropped his truck off on Tuesday. I think he was worried i'd break it again lol.

Oh well, gives me some time to save some money for mods.

Has anyone done a 4" stroker with wiesco 5.3L pistons? appears to come out to a 10.4:1 5.95L, which seems like it might be pretty fun.

 

Read this entire thread and there is tons of really helpful info! I'm also doing similar things to my truck and learning to tune it as well. Nice work BTW.

 

Thanks!

 

So it's been a while. Truck is running good. scooting around on 10psi. I can't turn it up right now because i'm daily driving it. My buddy has my other car while we're building his S10 which is taking forever lol.

Oh well.

So the trans i shifting really hard. At first I thought it was the shift kit (HD2) but it's throwing an turbine input shaft code.

Anyhow, I figured it was either the converter or the sensor or something else. I replaced the front VSS sensor this afternoon and logged hp tuners input speed..... 0.

So I'm thinking I have bad wiring or I have it pinned wrong.

I'm using a 2000 GMC Sierra 6.0L 4L80e stock tune. I assume the 4l80e vss input are the same for all gen 3 setups regardless of year.

Either way, anyone have any other ideas about what I should look at assuming the wiring and the pins are correct?

On a side note, I ordered a 3200 Cirlce D converter. The high performance one. I'll be dropping that in the next couple of weeks. It's embarrassing not being able to brakestand lol. That stock converter is crazy tight.

Brian Burns helped me out with it. Top notch customer service. He's ultra responsive to email which is awesome. I'm not much of a guy to talk on the phone and I like to have record.

Here's the converter I bought:

https://www.circledspecialties.com/p...converter.aspx

Any input is appreciated.

 

Here's the wiring guide I used. You think if I mixed up the wiring it would straight up not work and give a 0 rpm to the ECU?

 

evidently it helps if you pin the ecu correctly..... swapped my two pins for 22 and 23 and everything works fine lol.

No more code and now it shifts nice a smooth. classic case of RTFM... derp derp