I assume you're talking about the 5 farad cap. I have the positive going to the jump box location (little red box next to the alernator) and the ground connected to the powesteering/alternator bracket. I used 4 gauge wire.

 

Your good to go on the nuetral safety switch. It mounts to the tabs sticking out on both sides of the shift shaft. Also your tail housing is good to go to the 80/400 yoke
As for the out put shaft, unbolt the yoke and look inside the tail housing, if the spline don't go all the way back and have a rubber seal then it needs changed.
My out put shaft had short spline so I just cut the yoke I have down till it fit, but I'm not boosted yet.

 

So I assume that i use the neutral safety switch from the 4l60. do I use the gear selector and all that off the 4l60 or use the 4l80 one? I have all that off for cleaning (in the pics).

I'll take the yoke out and take a picture. From what i was reading, if it has the o-ring, you can either cut a th400 yoke down, swap out output shaft (which i don't want to do) or denny's sells a conversion yoke that has a counter bore at the end to accommodate for the o-ring. Does that sound right?

Thanks for all the help. Starting to think I might be able to get this done pretty quickly.

 

The gear selector/cable will all be your stock 4l60e stuff.

The neutral safety switch will swap over but be forewarned, the factory put sealant into the connector plugs for the NSS which over time melts and turns into rock hard glue. Recommend using a heat gun on the plugs and then slowly pull them out, otherwise you'll crack and ruin the NSS or plugs. Also, there's a special tool to align the NSS onto the shaft. It's not absolutely necessary, but without the right alignment your gear selector on the dash probably wont be entirely accurate.

 

Just unbolt the nss from the 60 and hang it to the side that way you don't run the risk of damaging the harness.
All I did was cut my yoke down. I took the tail housing off and bolted the shaft to the rear and held it up to the OP shaft and cut it 1/2" shy of the end of the splines to allow room to keep it from bottoming out.
As for the shift linkage, its different. Not sure how much different but it is. I used a b&m floor but there is a write up around here that illustrates it. I think its in the stickies.

 

So.... I think this is the yoke i need..

T-400 & 4L80 Transmission Slip yoke 1310 Series 32 spline w/threaded hole in output

Looks like they are super customer service oriented for this part lol.

I can't seem to find the size of the stock u-joint that comes with the truck. Looks like this yoke is 1310 which i think is the same as the stock driveshaft. So I wouldn't need a transition u-joint correct?

Text from the part description:

1310 Series 32 spline T-400 & 4L80 Transmission Slip yoke specifically designed to be used on a T-400 & 4L80 with the Threaded Hole in the center of the Output shaft.

This design will replace the truck style bolt on yoke with a car style slip yoke and allow for proper slip travel and bushing contact for best performance.

With this slip yoke you can now use a normal car style driveshaft.

A must for any threaded output shaft on T-400 & 4L80 transmissions that are being used in a car application.

We designed this yoke to solve this problem over 25 years ago.

Barrel Diameter... = 1 7/8 inches
U-joint cap diameter...= 1 1/16 inches
U-joint width... = 3 7/32 inches
Series... 1310
Spline count... 32
Sorry...NO PHONE CALLS and NO EMAILS about this part.

PLEASE NOTE:

This slip yoke is ONLINE PURCHASE ONLY
No Phone Orders accepted for this part
Backlog on this part is 3 business days at this time

Here's the 1350 u-joint version

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p153..._transmis.html

 

1350 Diff yoke...

GM 8.6 inch 10 bolt 1350 series pinion yoke for 2001 and newer GM Corporate 8.625 inch 10 bolt truck rear ends

 

Your stock drive shaft should take a 3R u-joint, so you would need conversion u-joint.

 

Is there a good resource (website) where I can confirm what series u-joint I have. I've tried a few part sites and they give no information besides a part number. Maybe this is a dumb question.

If i got this yoke....

T-400 & 4L80 Transmission Slip yoke GM 3R Series 32 spline w/threaded hole in output shaft

I could use the stock u-joints?

Anyone know if my stock driveshaft will work for now or do I need to get that modified or get a new one?

GM 3R Series 32 spline T-400 & 4L80 Transmission Slip yoke specifically designed to be used on a T-400 & 4L80 with the Threaded Hole in the center of the Output shaft.

This design will replace the truck style bolt on yoke with a car style slip yoke and allow for proper slip travel and bushing contact for best performance.

With this slip yoke you can now use a normal car style driveshaft.

A must for any threaded output shaft on T-400 & 4L80 transmissions that are being used in a car application.

We designed this yoke to solve this problem over 25 years ago.

Barrel Diameter... = 1 7/8 inches
U-joint cap diameter...= 1 1/8 inches
U-joint width... = 3 5/8 inches
Series... GM 3R Series
Spline count... 32

I believe this is the right u-joint for the stock driveshaft

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p462...reaseable.html

 

Yup that will work with your stock drive shaft and so will that u-joint.

Maybe some rcsb guys can chime in about drive shaft length, I don't know if they need to be modified or not, I didn't but I have a 2-piece shaft(ecsb).

As far as I know 3R has been the standard size for GM 1500's, it just kept popping up during my searches for u-joints on 80e swaps.

this is a good one shows all the different sizes and measurements
U-Joint series identification