Ferocity02

iTrader: (59)

Im running one, on the highway it will run at 172-175. Stock stat would run at 195 on the highway. Some people will say its too cool for the oil. I figure with a turbo it would help.

jerryls7

iTrader: (1)

running 160* for yrs, taking advantage of the cooler temps.

2doorfury

iTrader: (12)

So is the 160 stat only a plus for turbo setups? Or would it be good for n/a too?

HIPSI

iTrader: (2)

How's everyone's fuel mileage with the 160?

black00chev

iTrader: (2)

I remember asking Justin about doing one of these awhile back and he pretty much told me its a waste of time.

2doorfury

iTrader: (12)

Thats what id like to know, if its worth the time to change it out.

smokeshow

iTrader: (16)

The more power you make, the more heat will be created as a byproduct. If you expect to make a lot of power, going to a lower thermostat will be beneficial, especially if you expect to run it hard and often.

fastnblu

iTrader: (2)

U just reminded me, I went to track in late Oct., then yesterday. During winter, I run diff. fan temps than I tune for in summer. I never changed em back during the summer.

Might could do that tweak for next week's racing.

I never really gave much thought of that concept I guess on the u need fans to do so, but I can see that logic. I wanted e-fans for less parasitic, cleanup engine bay, & removal is a snap too if doin say, a cam swap.

That's likely where I'm @ now, & when N/A too.

2doorfury, I used to know when the factory one opened, I wanna say 195° open, then closed @ 212 I'd go by what HPT or EFI said, not by factory cluster on what true temp is, IMO factory temp. gauge varies too much from my HPT readings.
160° stat is OK for N/A, or F/I too. To me, I like a 170° stat, not a 160°, but some fuel injected appl. don't offer a 170. I just think u get more wear if a motor is too cool, & besides, uses more emissions. To each his own I guess, I'm no engineer or tech, but I've read threads on the cooler stats on PT before as well.
Power goes up 1% for a 10° drop in temp.
So say u got a 300HP 5.3, u drop temps 30°, that's 9HP. Correct me if I'm wrong on this. More power comes a little at a time, as not every mod gets u 40, 50, or 100HP. Not gonna happen, if so, everyone would be doin it. Look how hard some of try just to eek out an extra .1 in the 60', or 1/4 or whatever your moddin goals.
It's a process, more about the combination & time spent, not just some off the wall "magic".

I think mileage may go down a scosch, & that mine did, but not as much as if say u do a stall or some other things. It's a compromise. Use a lil more, but greater tuning freedom cause u have less worries of spark "issues". If it helps keep motor safe when I was N/A, at expense of lil more fuel, OK.
On any F/I appl., I think it's just good insurance.

Do u recall what mods u had back then? Were u boosted?
Or was that just his sentiment in general on em?

I agreee w/. u, Jake.

HIPSI

iTrader: (2)

Going from the stock thermostat to the 160 will it be drivable enough to take it to a tuner or will it throw a cel?

black00chev

iTrader: (2)

Mods were the same as they are now. He said with the addition of the e-fans, its just not worth the hassle. The fans will do more to help keep it cool the then the lower t-stat will.

I think it boiled down to if you want every last little available HP, then do it but there are more worthy mods.