Took my truck to get dyno tuned today after putting a cam in last weekend. The tuner was having a lot of problems getting the truck to idle and once he got the idle to work he dynoed it and it would barley do 200 hp. He tries a few things it still will barley do 200. He then asks if I have platinum spark plugs and I say ya and he says that I have to replace them with something else because his tuner doesn't like that kind of spark plugs. I go get the ones he says to get and it still is having the same problem. He then says the knock sensors are stopping it from going any higher because it thinks its knocking, but he doesn't think it is so he turns the knock sensors off and it runs 275 hp 303 torque, but only at 12 degrees of timing. So he thinks that maybe there is something wrong with driveline and that is making the knock sensors go off. So I end up leaving the dyno place and my truck is running like crap and has no power.. Anyone have any ideas? My truck is a 2000 5.3 extended cab with pacesetter longtubes, ORY, gibson sport truck exhaust, and TR220 cam. Sorry for the book I just wrote, but I really want to figure this out.

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take it to some one that can tune it..or have him just leave the knock sensors turned off

 

I would double check the cam install and make sure you have the timing chain properly aligned.

 

I agree. It sounds like this guy just got the system and never learned how to use it. Platinum plugs shouldn't be an issue until you start running nitrous or FI. and that's a botched excuse, the software he uses and the type of plugs you run have no reflection on each other. Either you have bad plugs or you dont. There is no "my software don't like those plugs".
Being the tuner he should have just shut the knock sensor off and finished tuning the truck.
Sounds like he didn't know what to do and wants you to figure it out yourself.

But as BigTex suggested, make sure you have your cam timing set right just in case.

 

also, it may very well be the upgraded valvetrain making noise. i.e. hardened pushrods/bigger springs..... sometimes that will trigger a "false knock" situation.

this dude is probably very new to tuning. your motor should take a minimum of 22-23 degrees at WOT.... i would think with a cam up to 26 degrees with 93 octane...no problems.

may want a refund and go somewhere else.

 

someone on another forum said that it could be the new springs and stuff also. do they just need broken in or what?

 

NO, THEY WILL USUALLY STAY MORE NOISY THAN THE STOCKERS. THE TUNER SOUNDS LIKE A DUMBASS.... SOMETIMES, THEY CREAT WHATS CALLED FALSE KNOCK.....BUT LIKE I SAY, HE SHOULD KNOW THAT IF YOU HAVE GOOD 93 OCTANE GAS IN THERE, YOU CAN SAFELY RUN 22-23 DEGREES AT WOT WITHOUT ANY KNOCK. I RAN THAT MUCH BEFORE THE CAM AND HEADERS, I WOULD THINK MORE WITH A CAM, LIKE AROUND 24-25 AT WOT.....BUT YOU NEED TO DEFINATELY MONITOR FOR KNOCK ABOVE 22...DEPENDS ON WHAT TYPE FUEL AND PLUGS YOU RUN.

THOSE STOCK PLUGS, WHETHER THEY ARE PLATINUM OR IRIDIUMS, WILL WORK FINE WITH JUST A CAM, ONLY NEED TO SWITCH TO RUN FI OR NITROUS.

 

Did you properly break in the cam? If it was a NEW cam and valvetrain you should break it in first.

 

Roller cams don't require breaking in like older flat tappet cams. They should be good to go right out of the box. Valve springs it never hurts to heat cycle them a few times before really beating on them, but usually if you have a problem with them, they just would have broke.

 

That answers that.