Thanks, guys I will try the suggestions and I did try to build boost, but it loads the suspension so bad, I dont think the caltracs are doing what they are suppose too. I had bought a lingenfelter 2step, hooked it up, truck would not crank up, unplugged it and hooked back up stock, truck fired, but threw a p0200 code for fuel injector malfunction. The 2 step had blown the fuse for fuel injection B. So, i didnt get to try that out. I think I will try to get the msd one, because that should allow me to build a few pounds with out loading the suspension too bad, allowing the caltracs to do there job. The 12.2 at 113 pass I let out twice, it broke loose when truck went to 2nd, then the flare issue on 2-3 shift. It was fun though, first race was a cobra mustang, he ran a 13.4 at 107 to my 12.5 at 112, 2nd race was a new 5th gen camaro, cammmed and procharged, he ran 12.3 at 121 to my 12.2 at 113.

 

8th mile times were in the 7.80 range at 89+. with the 1.90, 1.91 60 fts. The problem is though, one is leaving off idle, and secondly, it hits full boost about 15-20ft out, and its like hitting it with a 200 shot, thats where it blows the tires off, so I feel it did good considering having to let out. One pass I ran 13.2 at 111, letting out 5 times lol. I will keep at it, just feels like a whole different truck now with a converter swap.

 

Brake boost the bitch and let it rip.

Spinning 200 feet out is what mine would do a lot, believe it's a sign of incorrectly set up suspension. Caltracs may need to be adjusted. What shocks are you running in front and rear?

 

shocks are stock, i know i know. I think the old yank 3600 converter I had would get the rpms up, and it would load the turbo gradually allowing it to leave cleanly on those high 1.6 60fts I was getting. I watch my go pro vid, I can just flat foot floor it, it will hook, but when it hits about 20 mph, the boost hits the tires hard. I will keep plucking away at it. I think I need to build atleast a couple pounds to put more power down, to hit the tires hard right of the bat.

 

when caltracs are setup right, the more power you toss at it the more they plant

with said you need to have your front and rear suspension as loose as possible from binding...all my bolts for rear are doublenutted and allows the rear to actually have travel and movement
the caltracs are adjusted with weight of driver in seat with minimal preload on the bars

you will also need a stiff shock out back along with a set of looser shocks up front....adjustables come into play here

reason for you spinning once youre out so many feet is from the suspension settling back down and unloading the rear


also 183kpa is 12 psi


ive always ran the lingenfelter 2 step and never had issues so unless your setup has something wrong with it, id keep it

 

Thanks for the help!! I think I will try the 2 step I have again, and work on the other suspension items. Right now the caltracs are in the middle hole, with the roller just touching the leaf, with me in the driver seat. At one point I had them in the top hole, 1 full turn of preload, leaving at 2000 rpm/ but no boost netted me a 1.69 60ft. After my accident, i was starting from scratch again, and tried the bottom hole, 1/8" from touching leaf but on prepped track for a race, left at 2000, non boost and netted me a 1.68 60ft. The hardest part about it is I dont know if its my adjustments, or just a bad prep day. The old converter would flash high and plant the rear end right from the start, this converter is way tighter and doesnt build boost until 20ft out. It wanted to spin before building boost, so I just left off idle. I think with the 2 step I can start leaving a little harder and start my adjustments with more power planting the tires. George, do you have preferance on what hole to go with? It is just shackle drop in rear. Thanks again for your help.

 

You need better rear brakes, hydroboost, or a trans brake.

Also, caltracs aren't necessary for a low 60', Blown06 cut 1.5 on stock and I got as low as 1.63'.

 

you need to find the instant center of the truck

to do this you need to place a jack on each side of truck and start lifting truck till it balances on the jacks.....place a 3/4" wide tape lenght of truck from roof to bottom

then run another piece of tape from bottom of rear tire to top of front tire.....wheres thes two cross you place another peice of tape

this is your instant center

try and have bars pointing at this point if possible if not then youll have to deal with some anti-squat if bar is too far forward...this is problem with xtra cabs

example...my truck uses drop hangers up front which raises the eye of the leaf upwards towarrds body which you want.

currently my lower bar and leaf are parallel to eachother, this setup worked for the old setup i had but with how im changing my weight around with current build i may have to move the bars around

many ppl just toss the caltracs on and not play with proper settings, go to calverts site or on yellowbullet and theres a huge thread about setting up caltracs on cars....same theory applies to trucks if you think outside of box

 

Thanks guys. One more question. I tried the shuffle deal one time with the 3600 converter, I was able to build 7lbs, but as I loaded the suspension, the rear of the truck would lift, and lift and lift, (so caltracs were doing there job i guess) but as soon as i let off the brake it spun. If im already building boost and preloading the caltracs, how can the truck stay planted? I figured that initial hit is what allows the caltracs to do thier work. I figured I could use the 2 step set at lets say 1700, which shouldnt preload the suspension too bad, and try adjusting caltracs with it loaded. I guess what im trying to say is i think its loaded to much when im up on the converter. The brakes held just fine that time. Ive read somewhere that the diesel 2wds guys adjusted them backed off alot, that way when they are building boost, the caltracs are not getting crazy preloaded before launcing.

 

First to answer question I skipped....yes loosening up front will help greatly


To stay planted you need to shift weight around in your favor

More power will help keep truck planted..


Example my truck before at 9 psi would hook hard and instantly drop the front...couldn't do any better then 1.75 on 9 Psi

Didn't touch anything and upped power to 12Psi and truck went 1.65 leaving with zero boost