Just google it "how to set pinion angle" and they will have drawings to go by.

 

googled it and found a decent article to go by. I have 6' at the transmission and 4' at the axle. Does this mean I need to add 2' to the axle?

 

Damn, I will have to pull the drawing again to answer that.



Here is one Skeet posted: coutresy of rossler, this method will save alot of stock driveshafts from breaking
Tired of breaking cases and drive shafts? There are many books that misled you on setting the pinion angle. For Drag Racing this is simple. You are trying to set the pinion angle to be parallel with the centerline of the engine & transmission on hard acceleration. To achieve this you must first figure out the parallel setting of the rear end to correspond to the angle of the engine & transmission, then add the proper amount of pinion angle. Add 1 deg. for 4-Link vehicles, 2 to 3 deg. for ladder-bar vehicles. Place stands under suspension to duplicate vehicle at ride height. Caution do not remove drive shaft without securing vehicle first. Take measurement with drive shaft removed.

http://www.quickstreettrucks.com/sho...t=pinion+angle

 

I'm cutting 1.5 60's on stock shocks with extenders/ belltech drop leafs/ and kb racing traction bars similar to caltracs

honestly what helped my truck was unloading the bars about a half an inch OUT of preload so when the truck comes down on the launch it lets it squat a little further and then grabs the bars... Also i'm runnin 9psi in my tires (hoosier quick time slicks)

As for the front i'm just running toxic drop shocks and they seem to lift nice....

My set up is about as budget as it gets as far as suspension... Try unloading those bars

I'm getting adjustable rear shocks soon so we will see if it gets better

 

my rear setup = stock springs with one leaf removed and 2" hangers belltech shocks with extenders and caltracs. I tried to unload the caltracs today for ride quality issues but sadly theres not enough adjustment. I may have to swap to 2" drop springs before I can unload them.

pitman that being said I would need 4' not just 2' because 2' would only put me at equal angles.

charlie look at the calvert racing adjustables, there nine way not just 6 like most. Ill be ordering a set here soon.

 

You want your rear pinion pointing down or NEGATIVE. usually 2 to 4 *'s negative. Relocating your shocks is probably the best single mod you can do too these trucks. 75* of angle and rear mount is the best results I have seen so far. I have cut a 1.52 on motor and had 18 psi in my 29.5W's, so I know there are 1.4's in it...

Neg. pinion angle will also keep you from chewing all the teeth of your ring gear when the pinion try's climbing it and then unloading.

 

Sorry, I was at work and only had time to post quick. That crap hurts my brain. I bought one of those cheap angle gauges from Home Depot to help out.

Nine way adjustable should work great

 

I never did ask. Have you taken good video (not by cell phone) of your launch to see if it is hooking, then unloading ? That will create a ton of wheel spin. Just wondering

 

Try loosening the caltracs. although they plant the tires they also seem to defeat weight transfer. try like a 1/4" 3/8" clear and compare results. On mine with preload it flat spins more clearance hooks better (due to better weight transfer I think) but also unloads quicker, so it's somewhat a balancing act.
Not sure what to say about pinion angle... the more preload or less gap the less the pinion can rotate so the caltracs adjustment does impact optimal pinion angle.

 

i preload the crap out of my caltracs for best results. bottom line is you need to get out there and play with the settings. every combo is different.