i am running strait 114octane.

here is the plan. going to hit this from 4 directions. more traction, more power, less weight and less drag.

got the caltracs on the way.

going to make a little fuel surge tank to help keep the fuel presure up, i am hopeing that is my kr issue. if it doesn't knock but does push a little water i wouldn't be afraid to turn it up a little more. also going with a colder plug.

going to pull the pasenger seat and exhaust along with any other little things i see. 100+lbs

going to pull the antenna, wipers, fold in the mirrors. going to have a piece of cardboard that fits the front of the truck ready to tape on that covers the grill and head lights. also going to seal up the holes in the airdam.

 

Jim, I've been wanting to try this on my truck for a while now, but haven't had the chance. I think that at 130+ mph, aero drag is a HUGE concern with these trucks. I don't know how hot this would keep the engine bay with the twins, but thought I would at least post it up and see what you thought.

It's a stainless grille insert for the colder climates to keep the truck engine warm in the winter. Lund makes a plastic one that's cheaper too, I just like the idea of the stainless. I know that I've seen one of Johnny Lightning's trucks with something similar, and talking to a lightning friend of mine they're good for a couple of MPH. Don't know about ET, but thought it might be worth a shot.

Putco White Out Grille insert

ebay link

Lund Cold Front Grille inserts

ebay link

 

A company, back in the day, used to sell turbo impeller housings with a bung installed to spray a small shot of nitrous directly perpendicular to the impeller fins in Grand Nationals. The idea is that with a V6 Grand National with a large turbo that spools at high rpm's this would aid in low rpm spool. You are basically forcing the impeller to spin with the nitrous and cooling the inside of the impeller housing and as usual the nitrous is a sort of intercooler to drop IAT's before and after the actual intercooler. A racecar Grand National that wants to make large amounts of power would need a large turbo, but for drag racing thats not always such a good thing, so someone devised this and sold them. I have not heard of any reviews of this being helpful or not, but I feel it would help a ton. Hey...its worth a shot, and if it does work maybe I will be a trendsetter.

I understand that it would be a silly thing to do. You're putting a lot of strain on the impeller shaft, fins, and probably the housing. But I feel that a small enough shot would actually help. I also understand that you can do the same thing by shooting the nitrous into the motor you make more exhuast gas and a the gas moves faster thus making the turbo spool faster. But maybe a small shot of nitrous into the impeller housing will make it spool faster than shooting it into the engine? Add a nitrous controller ontop of the small shot and you can vary the nitrous according to the rpm's and maybe have a dual shot system. a 25 or 50 shot dry first stage that shoots into the hosing at low rpm's and a 100 shot at high rpms into the motor like normal. Or shoot a 100 shot to act as another intercooler to cool down your IAT's? I fell this is a good thing to at least experiment with.


Nick

P.S. any thoughts?
Also, my experimentation will be on a garrett GT3582R. I don't know what it would do on a larger turbo. But I am game to find out! Maybe you, Jim, would benifit from this in your quest for the 9's?

 

Also Jim, I thought Megasquirt was a stand alone fuel management system (not a bad way to spend 10G's LOL! I hate that movie!!) Do you only use it for Nitrous or as a piggyback to your PCM? I noticed you have EFI Live or HPT? do you use the factory PCM or the Megasquirt, a combination of both? I am trying to figure out what you have done in your supreme quest and want to adapt your trial and error process to my own project. If you would, I would really love to go indepth with you on your project. I read all that I can and have been a follower of yours and advocate for some time now. I have been watching 1320 since almost day one. Now I am embarking on my own project, similar to yours in some respects but different as well. I would really like to "pick your brain" on some ideas and techniques you have done and some that I am contemplating.

PM me if you would like, we will talk.
Nick

 

ms can be a stand alone or piggy back. originaly it was just a piggy back for fueling but many features have been added over time. it cost something like $340 assembeled.

 

my hp calculator sugests my time last week of 10.11 would have been down to a 9.98 with 190lbs drop. i kind of went nuts pulling parts but i really want to bust a nine. i couldn't figure out how to get the wipers off but i think the mirrors will make a help with the wind a little. next is a piece of cardbord over the entire grill and plug off the holes in the bumper. caltacs for a little better 60' i hope. colder plugs and a little more fuel so i can bump the boost a hair(if i need to). can't wait for next saturday.....

 

dude good luck. you and blacksheep have been fun to watch with two totatlly differenty approaches. your weight but hp to his less weight and hp. gawd have mercy on some street racers in this world

 

Call me ignorant but after all of this time I didn't know that you didn't have Caltracs or any kind of traction device. I am unsure of how the caltracts will act with the 4wd but I imagine it will pick up on the body and throw more weight torwards the front if you have the front of the bar in the top hole. Normally the bars in the lower hole would pick up on the front end more and throw the weight back but that isn't what you want I dont think. I would bring the tools with you to swap it at the track and changing pre-load as well. Putting them in the upper hole would more simulate what regular slapper bars or south side machine bars would do; lift the rear of the body. On a 2wd vehicle they would only give you 1 advantage and that is using the weight of the rear of the vehicle (by action of the rotation of the axle) to plant more force on the rear tires. On Your 4wd it will do that as well as put more weight on the front tires. I guess we will see. I am just brainstorming since I have never raced a 4wd. Good luck.

 

i have spent a lot of time thinking about this one. i want it to weight transfer as much as possiable. at least that is the way i am seeing it.

lets say i keep the truck perfectly level with no weight transfer. there is something like 1250lbs on each wheel. now lets get it to transfer so well the front wheels get pulled. now i have no wight on the front but 2500lbs on each real. better or worse? who knows but i think there is more too it. think of the gforce the truck is pulling. right now my gtech is showing 1.2g peek. to me that means there is more than the wight of the truck pushing back agains the tires. there is the 5000lb's down just from the weight of the truck but also the ~6000lbs pushing back. i dont know if that makes any sence but i think there can be a lot more than the 5000lbs of actual weight on the back tires even though the truck weighs 5000lbs.

if nothing esle i think i can preload it so if the fronts are on the ground they will be on the ground equaly instead of one geting real light and spining.

 

Makes sense to me
"objects at rest want to stay at rest" your overcoming the force of gravity pushing down and the weight of an object at rest I could see how for a brief moment there is more than just vehicle weight on the tires.
hhhmmm Im sure it could be calculated knowing weight and G forces this could be interesting Im gonna find out. But then there is weight transfer and how its distributed. Not that the number makes any difference.