Classic Trucks '47-'98 GM Trucks - Performance | Conversions | General Discussion

drive way restoration

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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 01:09 PM
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Can anyone tell me what this is and where it is needed for, I'm wondering if I still need this...

I have disk brakes in the rear and got another master cylinder for this. Also, do I need to keep the proportioning valve? I have a Wilwood proportioning valve on the rear brake line.

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Old Oct 24, 2013 | 02:28 AM
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Is it the ABS modulator? That's what I found on the Rockauto website. Never knew it had ABS and only the the rear wheels? If it is the ABS, it's not working so I will get rid of it anyway.

Got all new rotors, calipers, pads, master brake cylinder and it doesn't brake like I would've hoped. I can't even lock my brakes (no not due to the ABS).
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Old Oct 30, 2013 | 08:02 PM
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Nice to see you moving forward with the rack and pinion swap. If you document this well, it will help a lot of people make a major improvement with the 88-98 trucks.
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Old Oct 31, 2013 | 01:17 AM
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Not much progress and I need to have a bigger garage...

it's a tight fit!






Pulled the engine and removed everything from the passenger side.

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Old Oct 31, 2013 | 01:19 AM
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Does anyone know if the motor mounts can be removed without removing the lower control arms? It seems nearly impossible to reach the nuts inside the frame.

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Old Oct 31, 2013 | 01:31 AM
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Originally Posted by SCOTT_A
Nice to see you moving forward with the rack and pinion swap. If you document this well, it will help a lot of people make a major improvement with the 88-98 trucks.

I will document to my best but I would also need some help to select a good steering rack first.

See my topic here

The dimension I need is vital to avoid bump steer. If I use a rack that's too wide I could shorten it but it will limit the steering (rack travel). A rack that is narrower than the 22.2" inch I'm looking for, is easier to extend.
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Old Oct 31, 2013 | 04:55 PM
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I replaced my motor mounts last winter and I pulled the lower control arm on the passeneger side. If I remember correctly, the drivers side can be done without dropping the control arm.
I don't have a truck with a rack. I know some people who do... I'll see what I can find out. Getting a solid dimension from inner tie rod end joint to the other inner rod end joint will be tough with the boots in the way.
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 06:41 AM
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Currently only about 40° and between all the showers and hailstorm I was only able to progress a little. Much less than I intended to.



Complete front has been removed and had to remove the control arms to reach the upper nuts of the motor mounts. Finally got them anyway and it was about time too...



Now progressing with the rear but the U bolts of the axle and the bolts of the shackles are giving me a hard time.

I was really surprised to see the flex of the frame when I was unbolting the shackles. it will be a good thing to box the frame and weld an additional crossmember in.

Still looking for a ton of parts, most important is the steering rack.
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Old Nov 23, 2013 | 12:34 PM
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Sad to see the quality of some parts, this is only 2 years old....

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Old Nov 23, 2013 | 12:41 PM
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Need to find some help to lift the bed, everything else is already removed. I just have the chassis, bed, cab & front fenders left.

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