Benlugchev

iTrader: (2)

Just picked up a 71 C10 with no rust, new interior and an 8 year old paint job. Not bad for $2,900 bucks, I think....

Plans are to go the LSx route, Im thinking LQ4. Haven't made my mind up yet on Carb or FI, ( I do have a stand alone harness and ECU). Looking to make around 400rwhp all said and done.

I'm really liking the 4 spd manual NP-440 (A833), and want to keep it manual. Any body running an a NP-440 (A833) 4spd behind a LSx how does it hold up.

I also am going to have to tighten the front end up, any ideas on where to get good front end parts for these rigs.

Other than that ive been driving it around with the SBC and I love it, Nice riding truck. Going to be a fun project

RacinRust

2900 is a killer deal for that truck as long as it has a title ! Does it have the truck arm rear or the leaf springs? IMO the easiest route would be carb. But FI would be my preference. Don't know what type of bell housings and flywheels are available for the LS motors that would adapt to the muncie. Moog still supplies all the front end parts for the truck. I have had a 70 CST10 and a 69 CD10 for years and still enjoy both of them.

Benlugchev

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the info, Yes good clean title in hand,... Moog looks like a good source for all my front end bushings thanks. And yes it has the truck arms in the rear, they are in good condition and not rusted.

Im leaning toward a carb setup...

I think the NP-440 (A833) SBC bell housing should work with an LSx just no top bolt hole??. Am I correct SBC and LS only difference is the top bolt hole? The part that is grey to me is a flywheel that bolts to the LQ4 crank and mates to a NP-440 (A833) input shaft, this is not my area of expertise. so any input would be helpful.

here are some photos of it the day I picked here up

1994Vmax

iTrader: (4)

I can't tell you anything powertrain wise but the front suspension on that truck will swap around with the 73-87 stuff. I know you have front discs but if you are leaving it stock height the 73-87 control arms are a better design bushing wise than the 63-72's are. Honestly a lot of guys just swap the entire front cradle from the 73-87's over and then you can just get aftermarket parts for them versus the mix and match.

If you want aftermarket control arms then it doesn't really matter either way.

Clean looking truck for $2900!

custom 68

iTrader: (8)

yea good looking truck. Check out this site: The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network - Powered by 67-72chevytrucks.com
It is a wealth of knowledge on these year trucks. I have the same user name over there as here.
I did the swap and stayed EFI but that was what I wanted. It will be a great addition to that truck.

slammedsilvy

iTrader: (3)

What a nice truck to start with, you got it for a steal in my opinion.

I'd love to have this body style with a boosted EFI lsx in it some day.

Benlugchev

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, Boost is still an option for me and I have been considering it. Im just a little bit hesitant now because the front end is kinda loose, I dont drive it over 80mph not she gets lil shady. If I get the front end tightend up and I think she can handle 100mph+ then I might boost it similar to my 00 GMC.

Thanks I just registered there

Benlugchev

iTrader: (2)

Hears alittle update for this tread. Truck has a 2005 GM 6.0L matted to a muncie M22 trans. Isky 218 cam flipped manifolds custom 2" SS hot pipes, Borg Warner S475 T6 1.10 AR. Ebay intercooler. 4" aluminum cold pipes alky control meth kit. 5" down pipe straight to the rear tire. Few more small misc items remaining then Ill be able to fire her up and she what shes got.

06murder

You should paint the blockthe same color as the intake..by the way .what color is the lintake

Benlugchev

iTrader: (2)

intake and elbow is powder coated sour apple green. I dont like to color the block itself in light colors they seem to get dirty too quick and very hard to keep clean