8.1 balancer removal tips, mid-cam swap
#1
Hello. I did part of my lil' project this late afternoon for a few hours. It is all coming apart nicely. I am down to the balancer. Any tips for removing that baby?
I have this on Dieselplace.com. I am double posting in both places because I would like to get some tips before tomorrow morning.
Thanx.
I have this on Dieselplace.com. I am double posting in both places because I would like to get some tips before tomorrow morning.
Thanx.
#2
you'll want a puller of some variety, they make specific harmonic balancer pullers that would be ideal but you can sometimes make do with other types of pullers though it's pretty easy to cause irreparable damage that way. without a puller it's not going to come off. you should be able to get one at your local parts house/tool shop for not too much and they typically work on a lot of different models.
#3
You need the ls1 chrysler puller i rented mine at vato zone
you will pull it out a certain ways with the short pushrod then you have to switch to the long pushrod. Installation I went and got a longer bolt. They go on fairly easy but i wouldnt beat it on
you will pull it out a certain ways with the short pushrod then you have to switch to the long pushrod. Installation I went and got a longer bolt. They go on fairly easy but i wouldnt beat it on
#4
Thanx a bunch for popping in guys. Truck is together. Runs great. I bought a 3 arm puller (first I bough the larger one, and it did not work, would not fit inside pulley part of balancer, I had to go back for the smaller one).
Truck runs great!
Thanx.
Truck runs great!
Thanx.
#5
Its a pain in the butt! We used a pulled then a socket on the puller... it take for ever to get off... im pretty sure a BFH was used as well... and to get it back on we had to heat the ballancer until it was glowing..
#7
Thanx guys. To get it installed, I found a very nice lil' tool. I was looking in my hammer drawer, and I saw a new 2&5/8" hitch ball. It is the perfect for putting inside the balancer and smacking the end of the shaft. It keeps the the smacking centered, so you don't have to alternate the sides you are hitting.
A lil' cracker-***, you bet. But it worked great.
I just got back from a 4 day camping trip to San Diego. Met Justin from Blackbear down there & we drove around for a bit. He is a cool guy. The Allison works much nicer. Drive-ability is perfect now. The engine & trans do not do anything that bugs me. Raised idle 50 RPM (in gear, when put on air, motor would stumble). Moved shift points, disabled a couple things.
Great cam.
I ended up sticking w/the stock valvesprings. I bought one of those valvespring compressor bars. It did not work. I modded it, and still no luck. I had to return the air hose for the spark plug hole, so I decided to finish up the job & do the valvesprings in a few days. There is no ticking or valve noise at idle or anywhere. There is no valve float. So I am good for now (I said "for now" in case the valvesprings can't take the ramp speed and start to weaken).
Shift point is a tad above 4900.
A lil' cracker-***, you bet. But it worked great.
I just got back from a 4 day camping trip to San Diego. Met Justin from Blackbear down there & we drove around for a bit. He is a cool guy. The Allison works much nicer. Drive-ability is perfect now. The engine & trans do not do anything that bugs me. Raised idle 50 RPM (in gear, when put on air, motor would stumble). Moved shift points, disabled a couple things.
Great cam.
I ended up sticking w/the stock valvesprings. I bought one of those valvespring compressor bars. It did not work. I modded it, and still no luck. I had to return the air hose for the spark plug hole, so I decided to finish up the job & do the valvesprings in a few days. There is no ticking or valve noise at idle or anywhere. There is no valve float. So I am good for now (I said "for now" in case the valvesprings can't take the ramp speed and start to weaken).
Shift point is a tad above 4900.
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kr1s
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Aug 24, 2015 05:34 PM




