9.5" 14-Bolt 5-Link Rear Swap
09-15-2008, 07:14 PM
#1
9.5" 14-Bolt 5-Link Rear Swap
This thread is a spin off of my 01 Yukon 383/122HH upgrade thread HERE, in which I was trying to find where my missing "power" is. After breaking the Auburn Pro series LSD in my 10-bolt while getting in my "baseline" track runs, I had to decide what to do...rebuild the 10-bolt AGAIN with a beefier components (Detroit Locker or Eaton TrueTrac, alloy axles, 1350 yoke, etc) or upgrade to a 14-bolt. I've included the posts from the other thread that helped me to decide to go with the 9.5" 14-bolt. As you can read from the posts, "rumor" has it that the 9.5" 14-bolt from certain years of Avalanches, Suburbans and Escalades will "bolt right in". I found a "good deal" on such a rearend out of a 2008 Escalade ESV with only twenty miles on it at a salvage yard in Oklahoma City and it should ship out tomorrow. This thread will chronicle the swap with my installation...I will detail everything that is "outside" of a straight bolt-in. Although I'm hopeful that it will be a bolt up and go, I'm sure that whatever the experience it could help others that want to do the same.
It is a little bit clunky. You have to kinda get used to it. If you change how you drive just a bit you won't even notice it much. I went with that because they are pretty much the strongest thing you can get without going to a solid spool. Because of me alot of my friends have used them also. We had one in a friends 99' Tahoe and it was great. The downside is when you feed it throttle if you are turning just slightly. The rear end tries to steEr the truck. I think that one had more problems because the bushings in the leaf springs were getting worn. The Tru-Trac drives alot better and is almost as strong, but the Detroit Locker is stronger and if mostly what you do with the truck is run it hard it's worth considering. Either one along with a girdle cover would be a good choice. If you haven't had the Auburn long you may be able to get one on the trade in program fairly cheap. If you are planning to go alot bigger on power yet you may want to eventually shop around for a 14 bolt 9.5" from an Avalanche/Suburban. The new body style trucks use them for the versions with the L76/Vortec Max type option and they should be a direct bolt in.
It is a little bit clunky. You have to kinda get used to it. If you change how you drive just a bit you won't even notice it much. I went with that because they are pretty much the strongest thing you can get without going to a solid spool. Because of me alot of my friends have used them also. We had one in a friends 99' Tahoe and it was great. The downside is when you feed it throttle if you are turning just slightly. The rear end tries to steEr the truck. I think that one had more problems because the bushings in the leaf springs were getting worn. The Tru-Trac drives alot better and is almost as strong, but the Detroit Locker is stronger and if mostly what you do with the truck is run it hard it's worth considering. Either one along with a girdle cover would be a good choice. If you haven't had the Auburn long you may be able to get one on the trade in program fairly cheap. If you are planning to go alot bigger on power yet you may want to eventually shop around for a 14 bolt 9.5" from an Avalanche/Suburban. The new body style trucks use them for the versions with the L76/Vortec Max type option and they should be a direct bolt in. Your truck looks great, is it lowered any?
As my wife does drive it on occasion, I don't want alot of odd noises and "pushing" that the Detroit would most likely give it...guess I'll aim for the TrueTrac then. I'll also do a quick search for the 14-bolt, but unfortunately I need to get the Yukon back up and running asap...have any specific thoughts on where to look (big salvage yards, etc.)?
Actually, Bryan(axisT6) put this together for me along with the fab work by Mark of ceoffroad dot com Costwise it ends up pretty close doing it either way.
Still would like to see someone bolt-in a factory built 5-link 9 1/2" though. This should become easier to do as more used units become available over time.
Still would like to see someone bolt-in a factory built 5-link 9 1/2" though. This should become easier to do as more used units become available over time.
Here's an example of a truck with the diff in discussion. It has the 9.5" 14 bolt SF with 4.10 gear and Gov-Lock.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevr...mZ150293786082
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevr...mZ150293786082
Sure did, and received the VIN. Checked the VIN with the dealer...was informed that it was from a 5.3L Suburban and not a 9.5" 14-bolt rear. So I did a search for GU6 3.42 and found I could get one from a Cad Escalade ESV with only 20 miles on it for $1325 delivered to my door--that is a brand new rear. I'm continuing to look for a GT5 until I confirm with this salvage if that includes brakes/lines, panhard, etc.
ANYONE CONFIRMED IF THE PANHARD ROD IS A DIFFERENT SHAPE TO FIT AROUND THE DIFF COVER?
ANYONE CONFIRMED IF THE PANHARD ROD IS A DIFFERENT SHAPE TO FIT AROUND THE DIFF COVER?
I can almost guarentee you that he will break the 10 bolt. I went through 2 Eatons and a Yukon Posi before I upgraded to the 14 bolt. I cracked the case on the Eaton. That was with a girdle as well. There is just too much flex in the housing. It is kind of like a 4l60/65/70e. In heavy applications with over 500rwhp, they are time bombs.
Last edited by GoatChs; 09-15-2008 at 10:28 PM. Reason: formatted pics to fit page :-)
09-15-2008, 07:36 PM
#2
In any event, I don't want the "characteristics" of a Detroit Locker, and have read on the forum that a couple guys have broken the TrueTrac. I can honestly say that I have not heard of what you have recommended...are you referencing the "standard" eaton GM posi (Gov-Loc) or "standard" Eaton LSD posi? I'm sure there are others that are interested in upgrading just the center section.
Last edited by GoatChs; 09-15-2008 at 10:29 PM.
and formatted your pics so they fit on one screen 
09-15-2008, 10:44 PM
#6
U-Joint?
I was looking at Randy's Ring & Pinion website and noted that there were many different u-joints available. It got me to wondering if the rear u-joint for my 10-bolt is compatible with the 14-bolt or if I need a hybrid/adapter u-joint? Either way I plan to install a new one but just wonder which one to buy?
EDIT: Found my answer in a GMB product catalog HERE...it shows two different part numbers for the Yukon and Avalanche 6.0L (2500 series):
Yukon
Std: 210-3105
Perf: 215-3105
Avalanche
Std: 210-0178
Perf: 215-0178
Guess I'll either need to have my driveshaft modified or get an adaptor u-joint.
Last edited by GoatChs; 09-15-2008 at 11:30 PM. Reason: Found U-joint info
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09-16-2008, 09:21 AM
#8
Nice Zippy...one less thing to worry about!
I was looking at Randy's Ring & Pinion website and noted that there were many different u-joints available. It got me to wondering if the rear u-joint for my 10-bolt is compatible with the 14-bolt or if I need a hybrid/adapter u-joint? Either way I plan to install a new one but just wonder which one to buy?
EDIT: Found my answer in a GMB product catalog HERE...it shows two different part numbers for the Yukon and Avalanche 6.0L (2500 series):
Yukon
Std: 210-3105
Perf: 215-3105
Avalanche
Std: 210-0178
Perf: 215-0178
Guess I'll either need to have my driveshaft modified or get an adaptor u-joint.
I was looking at Randy's Ring & Pinion website and noted that there were many different u-joints available. It got me to wondering if the rear u-joint for my 10-bolt is compatible with the 14-bolt or if I need a hybrid/adapter u-joint? Either way I plan to install a new one but just wonder which one to buy?
EDIT: Found my answer in a GMB product catalog HERE...it shows two different part numbers for the Yukon and Avalanche 6.0L (2500 series):
Yukon
Std: 210-3105
Perf: 215-3105
Avalanche
Std: 210-0178
Perf: 215-0178
Guess I'll either need to have my driveshaft modified or get an adaptor u-joint.
I believe it is best to remove the driveshaft and have a 1350 yolk welded to the driveshaft and have it high speed balanced.
09-16-2008, 01:56 PM
#9
So, maybe go with the adaptor u-joint now and a custom Inland Empire 3" aluminum DS with 1350 yokes/u-joints on both ends when I need the 4L80? Also, good info regarding the 1350/1320 adaptor..I'll check into that further to confirm for this thread.
Last edited by GoatChs; 09-16-2008 at 03:16 PM. Reason: Added text
09-16-2008, 03:28 PM
#10
I had mine high speed balanced and added a DS loop after reading THIS...figured money well spent if it would protect my FLT transmission. And I agree with the modding the driveshaft being the best alternative, but am also thinking that my FLT Lvl 4 4l60e will likely be the next fatality...and if (when?) that happens I will go with a 4l80e and need to mod the DS again.
So, maybe go with the adaptor u-joint now and a custom Inland Empire 3" aluminum DS with 1350 yokes/u-joints on both ends when I need the 4L80? Also, good info regarding the 1350/1320 adaptor..I'll check into that further to confirm for this thread.
So, maybe go with the adaptor u-joint now and a custom Inland Empire 3" aluminum DS with 1350 yokes/u-joints on both ends when I need the 4L80? Also, good info regarding the 1350/1320 adaptor..I'll check into that further to confirm for this thread.
