Project "Blown HD" my 6/8 drop/shortblock/heads/cam/blower/tranny install
Dec 6, 2006 | 04:00 PM
#511
update, at this point, everything is removed that I wanted out of the way to start dis-assembly on the longblock. Joe (2005SSR6Speed) told me if I removed the wiring harness from the chassis he would help me rework it to look like his setup(see link below), just clean the whole thing up basically......
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80...terinstall.jpg
here's a pic of all the working room I have now
harness removed, these late model trucks are very simple electrically to R/R, very happy about that
the harness
ooooooooo, ugly!
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80...terinstall.jpg
here's a pic of all the working room I have now
harness removed, these late model trucks are very simple electrically to R/R, very happy about that
the harness
ooooooooo, ugly!
Dec 6, 2006 | 05:02 PM
#514
Method I used to hold the damper, Craftsman's largest pry bar is a perfect fit, install it in the damper pointing out, when it clears the first arm, rotate it 180*, and your good to go:
Crank Damper was a breeze, took all of about 3min using the OTC tool:
For those that bought this tool or similar, use the longest rod in the kit and you'll never touch the crank snout or any of the crank threads:
Not too many threads get utilized for the amount of torque this bolt sees!
I was happy there was no galling on the crank snout, she's clean
Crank Damper was a breeze, took all of about 3min using the OTC tool:
For those that bought this tool or similar, use the longest rod in the kit and you'll never touch the crank snout or any of the crank threads:
Not too many threads get utilized for the amount of torque this bolt sees!
I was happy there was no galling on the crank snout, she's clean
Last edited by moregrip; Dec 6, 2006 at 05:14 PM.
Dec 6, 2006 | 06:08 PM
#516
TECH Veteran
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,632
Likes: 2
From: Sun Diego
Originally Posted by moregrip
Not too many threads get utilized for the amount of torque this bolt sees!
Dec 6, 2006 | 06:28 PM
#518
Originally Posted by TBSS
From what I remember the directions call for putting in the old bolt and torquing it down to 240 ft/lbs (or something like that), then removing it and torquing the new one down to 30 ft/lbs (or somewhere thereabouts). Am I remembering correctly?
Dec 6, 2006 | 06:55 PM
#519
Adkoonerstrator
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 21,436
Likes: 3
From: Deep in the seedy underworld of Koonerville
torque the old bolt to 240ft-lbs, then take it out. Torque new bolt to 37ft-lbs and then another 140 degrees.
Wow Grippy, at this point it might be easier to just part your truck out and get something new rather than reassemble it.
Wow Grippy, at this point it might be easier to just part your truck out and get something new rather than reassemble it.
Dec 6, 2006 | 06:56 PM
#520
TECH Veteran
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,632
Likes: 2
From: Sun Diego
Originally Posted by moregrip
I honestly don't remember myself, but that sounds about right, 30ft-lbs seems a bit low though
Seat your pulley back onto the snout of the crankshaft as best you can by hand. If you purchased a longer crank bolt which I *highly* recommend, start threading this in now and pull the pulley on about a 1/4 or 1/2 an inch and remove the longer bolt. Use your old stock crank pulley bolt to pull the pulley onto the crankshaft until the bolt seems to get impossible to turn. Grab your biggest torque wrench and attempt to torque that bolt down to 240lb/ft. I have always stopped at 200lb/ft on my installs and I've never had a problem, so if you can't hit 240 (which I never have), don't worry about it. Now, break the bolt free and remove it.
NOTE: If you did not buy a longer crank bolt, and you are reinstalling the stock pulley, you run the risk of stripping out the first few threads of the crankshaft. This will NOT be fun to fix! Take your NEW crank pulley bolt and thread it in all the way by hand. Torque this bolt to 37lb/ft. Now, we need to stretch the bolt into place. Get your breaker bar and pipe extension, and try to turn the bolt 140degrees past where it is at now, keeping in mind the engine will be trying to turn some and those are degrees you can't count. Again, I always seem to get about 90-100 degrees worth (estimating, knowing what 90 degrees looks like) and leave it as is so don't worry about going crazy here.
NOTE: If you did not buy a longer crank bolt, and you are reinstalling the stock pulley, you run the risk of stripping out the first few threads of the crankshaft. This will NOT be fun to fix! Take your NEW crank pulley bolt and thread it in all the way by hand. Torque this bolt to 37lb/ft. Now, we need to stretch the bolt into place. Get your breaker bar and pipe extension, and try to turn the bolt 140degrees past where it is at now, keeping in mind the engine will be trying to turn some and those are degrees you can't count. Again, I always seem to get about 90-100 degrees worth (estimating, knowing what 90 degrees looks like) and leave it as is so don't worry about going crazy here.