93 S-10 project
04-08-2014, 09:35 PM
#61
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 1,468
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OK, apparently I missed a couple updates over here...
cross member is in, trans is all bolted up except the trans mount to the crossmember. I have to drill 2 holes for that. Driveshaft is in with new u-joints (I have approximately 1 1/2 to 2 inches between the seal and the shoulder of the yoke, so I have to pull it again to measure what is inside the trans, then determine if I will have to get a longer yoke for better engagement behind the seal), battery cable and solenoid wire are connected and partially run for their duties. Will have to wait for exhaust work to be completed to figure the routing in the engine bay.
Power relays are ordered for the main electrical connections being fed by the ignition (fuel pump, ignition box, and electric fan) Also ordered relay for the neutral safety switch, and a couple of extras. I think I have it figured on how to wire the relays, which is as follows: main power will come from the alternator stud which will feed all relays, ground will go to either engine block or body, relay activation power will come from ignition key on lead (pink), and power output will go to the item being controlled by that particular relay. Ignition master power (2 red leads) will come from the starter hot lead which can be shut off by the master disconnect switch at the back of the truck. I am going to have to move that to the tailgate since I have a personalized license plate for the S-10 on the way. I do plan to test my wiring solution to make sure it works like it is supposed to. Flip the master switch and the whole truck goes dead. <<<---look at my avatar pic, that will be my license plate for the S-10.
Exhaust is completely off the passenger side, and drivers side is off except the header. I plan to get exhaust welded directly to header on both sides after I get the flanges cut off and get it to a muffler shop for the exhaust work. I am SUPPOSED to be home Thursday, but it is looking like I wont be home until Saturday or sunday, completely ruining all my plans for exhaust work and finishing the electrical stuff up so I could hopefully go to the track sunday and see how it runs.
Bad part is that unless I bolt some of the exhaust onto the passenger side to clear the starter and wiring, I will wind up burning something up. And after just over a years worth of work, I am not ready to risk that.. So I may be driving Mom's Silverado over to just do some picture taking and video making.
Speaking of Mom, she figures I will need a fire extinguisher!! So she bought one for me!!
Well, not much else to report except that once I get the caltracs paid for, I will be going after the 8.8 rear end, along with the kit to re-drill the wheel pattern. Just not sure which one I will get first since money is starting to get tight. I am still 4 payments ahead on the Silverado, and plan to get more ahead in the very near future providing my paychecks allow for it.
Hopefully I will be posting up about a LOT of stuff getting done Thursday and Friday, but right now it is not looking like anything will get done until Saturday or Sunday.
Everyone take it easy and have a good night.
cross member is in, trans is all bolted up except the trans mount to the crossmember. I have to drill 2 holes for that. Driveshaft is in with new u-joints (I have approximately 1 1/2 to 2 inches between the seal and the shoulder of the yoke, so I have to pull it again to measure what is inside the trans, then determine if I will have to get a longer yoke for better engagement behind the seal), battery cable and solenoid wire are connected and partially run for their duties. Will have to wait for exhaust work to be completed to figure the routing in the engine bay.
Power relays are ordered for the main electrical connections being fed by the ignition (fuel pump, ignition box, and electric fan) Also ordered relay for the neutral safety switch, and a couple of extras. I think I have it figured on how to wire the relays, which is as follows: main power will come from the alternator stud which will feed all relays, ground will go to either engine block or body, relay activation power will come from ignition key on lead (pink), and power output will go to the item being controlled by that particular relay. Ignition master power (2 red leads) will come from the starter hot lead which can be shut off by the master disconnect switch at the back of the truck. I am going to have to move that to the tailgate since I have a personalized license plate for the S-10 on the way. I do plan to test my wiring solution to make sure it works like it is supposed to. Flip the master switch and the whole truck goes dead. <<<---look at my avatar pic, that will be my license plate for the S-10.
Exhaust is completely off the passenger side, and drivers side is off except the header. I plan to get exhaust welded directly to header on both sides after I get the flanges cut off and get it to a muffler shop for the exhaust work. I am SUPPOSED to be home Thursday, but it is looking like I wont be home until Saturday or sunday, completely ruining all my plans for exhaust work and finishing the electrical stuff up so I could hopefully go to the track sunday and see how it runs.
Bad part is that unless I bolt some of the exhaust onto the passenger side to clear the starter and wiring, I will wind up burning something up. And after just over a years worth of work, I am not ready to risk that.. So I may be driving Mom's Silverado over to just do some picture taking and video making.
Speaking of Mom, she figures I will need a fire extinguisher!! So she bought one for me!!
Well, not much else to report except that once I get the caltracs paid for, I will be going after the 8.8 rear end, along with the kit to re-drill the wheel pattern. Just not sure which one I will get first since money is starting to get tight. I am still 4 payments ahead on the Silverado, and plan to get more ahead in the very near future providing my paychecks allow for it.
Hopefully I will be posting up about a LOT of stuff getting done Thursday and Friday, but right now it is not looking like anything will get done until Saturday or Sunday.
Everyone take it easy and have a good night.
Last edited by BigEd_72455; 04-08-2014 at 09:52 PM.
04-15-2014, 12:31 AM
#62
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 1,468
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, it was crap weather today, and since I don't have a shop, nothing at all got done today, or yesterday.
I got in some parts for the truck that I had ordered last week. I have several more on the way for when I get in again in another 9 days after I leave out in the morning.
I have a 3 gauge dash top pod, longer trans yoke, .130 needle and seat pair with gaskets, and the tap and temp adapter fitting for the passenger head so I can drill it out a bit bigger and use a more common and MASSIVELY less expensive adapter for my temperature gauge, and the crossover u-joint needed for the new trans yoke all ordered and on the way to me. Hopefully they will all be in by Monday or Tuesday or next week so I know just how much work I have ahead of me next Friday and Saturday, providing the weather lets me get this stuff done.
I got in an automatic fan control unit for my electric fans, the 6 power relays I ordered, some electrical connectors for assembling some wiring, the transmission mount that SHOULD work on my turbo 350 to stock crossmember, and last is the wrap around cable holders that are rubber insulated for holding battery cable and nitrous lines and fuel lines..
I got in some parts for the truck that I had ordered last week. I have several more on the way for when I get in again in another 9 days after I leave out in the morning.
I have a 3 gauge dash top pod, longer trans yoke, .130 needle and seat pair with gaskets, and the tap and temp adapter fitting for the passenger head so I can drill it out a bit bigger and use a more common and MASSIVELY less expensive adapter for my temperature gauge, and the crossover u-joint needed for the new trans yoke all ordered and on the way to me. Hopefully they will all be in by Monday or Tuesday or next week so I know just how much work I have ahead of me next Friday and Saturday, providing the weather lets me get this stuff done.
I got in an automatic fan control unit for my electric fans, the 6 power relays I ordered, some electrical connectors for assembling some wiring, the transmission mount that SHOULD work on my turbo 350 to stock crossmember, and last is the wrap around cable holders that are rubber insulated for holding battery cable and nitrous lines and fuel lines..
04-21-2014, 03:55 AM
#63
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 1,468
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OK... latest update was friday afternoon. Got the battery cables installed and connected, got the necessary relays installed and connected with exception of the electric fan. Gonna go with a switch on that one I think. I will have it setup so that if it is on, the ignition keeps the fan on when the engine is running, but if I switch it off, it actually stays OFF regardless of ignition position. I can then turn it off for drag racing, then back on for cooling it down on the return road.
Got the transmission filled up and managed to drive it on the road for just a little bit. It has a BIG stumble on acceleration, but apparently if I swap the 30 and 50 cc accelerator pumps, it should all but eliminate that problem. I hope so.
Had a BIG vacuum leak that was letting the engine idle at almost 3000 RPMs, but that has been brought back to a respectable and almost fixed 1200 RPM. I think adjusting the timing map a little bit will fix the majority of that problem. I am hoping to have it to the track next sunday with all the issues resolved, and the caltracs I bought installed to the truck. Along with having a full nitrous bottle, and maybe an extra one full and ready to go. Oh yeah, and installing the mini-spool.
If I can get all of those items taken care of, I should be all set for racing and having a ton of fun for at least one weekend anyways. Win or lose, as long as I get to give it a full chance of taking some folks out...
Got the transmission filled up and managed to drive it on the road for just a little bit. It has a BIG stumble on acceleration, but apparently if I swap the 30 and 50 cc accelerator pumps, it should all but eliminate that problem. I hope so.
Had a BIG vacuum leak that was letting the engine idle at almost 3000 RPMs, but that has been brought back to a respectable and almost fixed 1200 RPM. I think adjusting the timing map a little bit will fix the majority of that problem. I am hoping to have it to the track next sunday with all the issues resolved, and the caltracs I bought installed to the truck. Along with having a full nitrous bottle, and maybe an extra one full and ready to go. Oh yeah, and installing the mini-spool.
If I can get all of those items taken care of, I should be all set for racing and having a ton of fun for at least one weekend anyways. Win or lose, as long as I get to give it a full chance of taking some folks out...
04-26-2014, 03:21 PM
#64
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 1,468
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Almost eliminated the vacuum leaks. I believe I have one that is because of having the intake connected to the valve cover breather on the passenger side.
It idles around 1300 RPM now.
But that is the least of my worries. It WAS street legal until I had a caliper jam part way closed on me. It got the front brake pretty hot. I have a new caliper for it already. but to be sure I went out and tried it on the street, but idiot me forgot to put in the clips for the hood. Got up to around 40 or so and had JUST started to slow down to turn around, with a grain hauler coming the other way I didn't think about the air blast from him, and WHAMMO!!!!!!! The hood flew up, dented the roof, shattered the windshield, mangled my hood up good. Almost made me **** my pants... I slammed on the brakes, got stopped, got out and realized that I was only about 1 foot from driving into the ditch, despite my thinking I was still on the road.
Well I found another hood already, it was only $30. It was apparently purple at one time and someone tried to paint it white. I plan to try to paint it primer grey or black with rattle can paint.
Tomorrow is definitely not going to happen for racing since I had a final paycheck of a measly $144... So now I have to decide if I want to have it replaced with glass, or go with plexiglass. I will have to call to find out about the price of plexiglass, since I already know it will cost $146 to get a glass replacement.
On the plus side of the column, I got new badging in for the truck a couple days ago. But with rain lurking around, I decided to wait til today to go out and put them on.
I got the larger side dents out with my hand, but that crease in the middle is one that I can not get out.
And with the headliner being in almost perfect condition, I don't want to ruin it by using a hammer and tearing it up.
It idles around 1300 RPM now.
But that is the least of my worries. It WAS street legal until I had a caliper jam part way closed on me. It got the front brake pretty hot. I have a new caliper for it already. but to be sure I went out and tried it on the street, but idiot me forgot to put in the clips for the hood. Got up to around 40 or so and had JUST started to slow down to turn around, with a grain hauler coming the other way I didn't think about the air blast from him, and WHAMMO!!!!!!! The hood flew up, dented the roof, shattered the windshield, mangled my hood up good. Almost made me **** my pants... I slammed on the brakes, got stopped, got out and realized that I was only about 1 foot from driving into the ditch, despite my thinking I was still on the road.
Well I found another hood already, it was only $30. It was apparently purple at one time and someone tried to paint it white. I plan to try to paint it primer grey or black with rattle can paint.
Tomorrow is definitely not going to happen for racing since I had a final paycheck of a measly $144... So now I have to decide if I want to have it replaced with glass, or go with plexiglass. I will have to call to find out about the price of plexiglass, since I already know it will cost $146 to get a glass replacement.
On the plus side of the column, I got new badging in for the truck a couple days ago. But with rain lurking around, I decided to wait til today to go out and put them on.
I got the larger side dents out with my hand, but that crease in the middle is one that I can not get out.
And with the headliner being in almost perfect condition, I don't want to ruin it by using a hammer and tearing it up.
Last edited by BigEd_72455; 04-26-2014 at 03:39 PM.
05-14-2014, 03:51 PM
#66
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 1,468
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Windshield is fixed. Truck has been to the track 2 sundays in a row. Both averaging in the 8.60 range. Last sunday I tried the nitrous kit out and it LOVED it. Made an 8.06 pass on 3.08 rear gears with an open diff. I waited til I was up and running and hit the switch about the 60 foot mark. It squatted a bit more and just boogied on down the track. Went straight as an arrow and no problems at all.
I am definitely going to have to put a small return spring on the carb. The cable I have on it is short and I just cant seem to get it to return properly now that it has some usage on it. I may wind up switching to some kind of rod, but that is a big turn to get to the carb out of the firewall..
All in time.. I will get it figured out. I may try a longer lokar brand cable since they are smaller and a lot more flexible in the cable body.
I managed a best so far in my s-10 of 8.06. Still has a LOT left in it.
Between a new cam and springs, better flowing headers, a larger carb, and a different rear end with steeper gears, it should be bottom half of the 7's NA.
I am definitely going to have to put a small return spring on the carb. The cable I have on it is short and I just cant seem to get it to return properly now that it has some usage on it. I may wind up switching to some kind of rod, but that is a big turn to get to the carb out of the firewall..
All in time.. I will get it figured out. I may try a longer lokar brand cable since they are smaller and a lot more flexible in the cable body.
I managed a best so far in my s-10 of 8.06. Still has a LOT left in it.
Between a new cam and springs, better flowing headers, a larger carb, and a different rear end with steeper gears, it should be bottom half of the 7's NA.
05-15-2014, 06:03 PM
#70
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 1,468
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Got the nitrous purge switch changed over to a button today. Was going to get a couple other things done but a thunderstorm came in and soaked everything.
I got the stereo installed into the ford and Mom's Silverado. So now I have something to listen to on the way to my new job. Gotta leave out Tuesday afternoon to attend orientation wed-fri. Fortunately it is only 220 miles away.
I got the stereo installed into the ford and Mom's Silverado. So now I have something to listen to on the way to my new job. Gotta leave out Tuesday afternoon to attend orientation wed-fri. Fortunately it is only 220 miles away.