Good catch rel3rd!!!

 

Thanks 1FastBrick...

smoggist:
I just found that there is also two different 15A fuses in the underhood fuse block as well..both pertaining to the heated oxygen sensor circuit.

If they are both good....
Your ECM or PCM...whatever, has two connectors. One with a blue insert, and one with a red insert.

Digging around a little, it looks like PIN 72 on Connector C-2, which is the one with the RED plastic, is the connection for the Bank 1 Sensor 1 - Heated Oxygen Sensor. It should be a BLACK wire w/White stripe. Check at the ECM harness connection to see if it's getting voltage when key is turned ON and if it is, then check wires at O2 sensor connection.

Voltage at the ECM connection but not at the O2 sensor, tells you there is broken wire. Then you just have to find out where, but there's only 3 feet between the ECM and the driver's side O2 sensor, so it shouldn't be too hard to find.

 

Thanks for the response guys! I pretty much ruled it out to be something related to a broken out melted wire in the harness. pulled fuses and all look good. I should just be able to test it with a multimeter right? Any idea how many volts I should be getting? (except ground of course)

 

Check those fuses with a meter as well. Sometimes they "look" ok, but aren't.

Nothing I could find last night said how much voltage should be coming through the heater wire. The reference wire for the actual sensor readings should be 450mV, or just shy of a half of a volt.

BUT...you need to verify if the heater wire is getting any voltage or not. I'd guess it has 12 volts, but not 100% sure. Once you fix that issue, the other code should go away too.

 

rel3rd. where did you find the diagram with the pin numbers and so on? That would be extremely helpful for me to diagnose some stuff.

 

I have access to (online) Mitchell on demand through work.

CalEditor@PCMCalibrators has a "sticky" at the top of this sub-forum about schematics and whatnot, but I wouldn't hold my breath.

 

Lol. If it was up to me i'd stick to paint and let someone else do my service work. But a broke *** like me has to turn his own wrenches. I'll check that sticky out man. Thanks.

 

Is this something that's relative to mail-order tunes, b/c I've never encountered anything like this on my dyno tune.

 

Being that the OP said he wasn't getting any voltage to the heater portion of the O2 sensor on the left side, I'm betting the tune itself has nothing at all to do with it.

 

X2 He swaped back to the factory PCM and still had the same codes. It's just an unrelated coincidence that it happened around the same time he got the tune. Possibly the wire near the PCM connection was brittle and it was disturbed when the PCM was swapped.