Hi I'm getting a 2000 5.7 out of my denali rebuilt and I'm not sure if I will be able to do the break In without getting my computer done. I'm going with black bear performance auto cal, but I haven't heard back from them yet. They really need to get a phone. Anyway here's what's being done.
5.7 vortex. 30 over
Comp cam 08-422-8
Heads will have 2.02-1.60 valves with 1.6 rollers
Dual valve relief pistons should be around the 10.1 compression range.
Shorty headers to a 2 1/2 dual exhaust.

So will that run with the stock computer. It won't be for driving around just to do the break in.
Thanks
And ya if your read this blackbear performance answer your emails. ;-)

 

My $0.02 you really need to take the time to measure the piston deck clearance, CC the chambers and find out the dish volume of the valve reliefs in the pistons. Then you need to account for the head gasket you are running. Vortec heads really like .038-.041" quench distance. If the block is ZERO deck like it should be, the head gasket is a 4.100 x .038" compressed, you have a 64cc chamber, and 6cc valve relief dish in the pistons you are at 10.3:1 compression and 8.45 DCR, which is TOO HIGH for pump gas on iron heads. If the pistons happen to be on a 1.56" compression height and the block not decked, you will end up with them about .025" down the hole and 9.7:1 compression with just under 8:1 DCR with a horrible .063" quench. You could salvage the quench with a .016" rubber embossed shim gasket BUT raise the compression back too high at 10.2:1 static/8.41 dynamic. If your builder used common 1.54" compression height pistons, you will be ~.045" in the hole and only 9.3:1 with a massive 0.083" quench distance.

Not to mention that camshaft is a missmatch with the stock intake manifold.

I try to shoot for a cam that peaks about 5,200 rpm. With the stock intake manifold and iron heads you need less compression and less cam for that heavy truck.

 

[QUOTE55;5200986]My $0.02 you really need to take the time to measure the piston deck clearance, CC the chambers and find out the dish volume of the valve reliefs in the pistons. Then you need to account for the head gasket you are running. Vortec heads really like .038-.041" quench distance. If the block is ZERO deck like it should be, the head gasket is a 4.100 x .038" compressed, you have a 64cc chamber, and 6cc valve relief dish in the pistons you are at 10.3:1 compression and 8.45 DCR, which is TOO HIGH for pump gas on iron heads. If the pistons happen to be on a 1.56" compression height and the block not decked, you will end up with them about .025" down the hole and 9.7:1 compression with just under 8:1 DCR with a horrible .063" quench. You could salvage the quench with a .016" rubber embossed shim gasket BUT raise the compression back too high at 10.2:1 static/8.41 dynamic. If your builder used common 1.54" compression height pistons, you will be ~.045" in the hole and only 9.3:1 with a massive 0.083" quench distance.

Not to mention that camshaft is a missmatch with the stock intake manifold.

I try to shoot for a cam that peaks about 5,200 rpm. With the stock intake manifold and iron
heads you need less compression and less cam for that heavy truck.[/QUOTE]


Yeah I've been over all that with my builder. He's keeping the quench around.40 and. 45 with the compression in the 10.1 area. The reason the bigger cam is for the near future upgrades of heads and iin take fuel injection. The builder is a good old boy who seem to now his ****. I didn't go into great detail because I just want to know if the stock com will run this motor for 15-20 mins so I can break in my cam. Don't want to start the cam break in and not finish it.

Still havent heard from black bear so I guess I will send them another email and hope they respond.

 

Roller cams don't really have the same break-in as flat tappet cams. That being said the stock PCM is probably not going to like that cam much at all.

 

Okay thanks for the reply. Got ahold of Justin and I order the auto-cal uint. He said it would more than likely run, but wouldn't idle very well. So I will just wait until I get the com done up.

 

The stock PCM in that truck can be tuned to run anything from a 383 under 10psi boost with a 2-bar MAP to a 540cid bigblock even though it technically only supports 1.0L per cylinder. It can command whatever idle RPM is needed. Sure, we're all spoiled with the 411 and newer PCMs but I can promise your stock black-box PCM can do anything that motor needs. A little extra work is all.

Also, like Fast said, there is no break-in for a roller cam. You're just seating rings. Use 100% petroleum-based, NON-synthetic blended oil. (If it's more than 99 cents per quart it's probably blended) Even semi-synthetic can be too slippery to break in the rings.

 

I broke my TBI 350 and L31 crate engines in on Mobil One 5w30. The factory fill on every Corvette since 1992 has been Mobil One, just FYI. My L31 gets the hell beat out of it and runs great. Uses very little oil between 5k changes.

 

Your broke in a flat-tappet smallblock on fully synthetic oil?!

You got really lucky. The information I'm giving about break-in is correct, what you're say isn't. Let's try to give the guy good advice since there is a lot of money at stake here.
The reason Corvettes ship with a Mobil 1 fill is because GM realized that with it they could save the weight of eliminating the external oil cooler, and they have a specifically compatible ring package.

 

No my TBI was a roller cam. That being said I have broken in MULTIPLE flat tappet cams with fully synthetic oil. Just get the Zinc additive and you can break in the engine on whatever oil you want. At no point would I consider using anything other than synthetic in my stuff. I also do not believe in a 500 mile break in. My foot is on the floor from day one, ZERO miles. My 2012 Titan had 6 miles on it when I took delivery of it and I beat the **** out of it on the test drive and on my way home and for the next 40K. Traded it in at 40K for a 2014 and repeated. My Express van engine was also broken in foot to the floor everywhere. Uses no oil, cylinders seal perfectly, and makes great power.

The rings of a LT1 Vette are no different than the rings of a L05 or 4.3 V6 for that matter. If you buy a ring set from GM for a LT1 you will get the same part number you order for a 94 Astro van 4.3 or a 95 G20 Van.

The only cam I have had fail was a .500" lift hydraulic flat tappet cam and it was using Valvoline Racing oil.