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MAF Problems after cam swap

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Old Jun 3, 2015 | 11:29 AM
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From: South Shore, MA
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My first guess would have been a ground as well... check that wire specifically. I forget where it grounds to.
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Old Jun 3, 2015 | 02:50 PM
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Check all block grounds. Then if they are all connected start checking wiring integrity in the harness in the drip loop from the drivers side valve cover to the power distribution center. These harness are notorious for developing broken wires inside the insulation in the area once disturbed. They work harden from motor movement and then once disturbed either break or get intermittent.
pink ign 12v
black/white ground
yellow maf output to pcm
tan/black IAT output to pcm

Last edited by 01WS6/tamu; Jun 3, 2015 at 02:59 PM.
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Old Jun 4, 2015 | 10:07 AM
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pink wire on MAF should have +12V. Try referencing it with the MAF black wire then with the battery -. It it is not there with MAF black wire but is with battery - then you are still missing a ground. MAF +12V is sourced with ENG1 fuse and grounded with G103.
Attached Thumbnails MAF Problems after cam swap-g103.jpg  
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Old Jun 4, 2015 | 11:50 PM
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MAF pink 12V KOEO

Check using a dmm from black to pink to verify power and ground at same time.

Be sure to clear codes from the pcm before wasting a lot of time on it. Once it sets a MAF code it will ignore MAF signal even once it becomes present again until it passes the clear criteria for 3 drive cycles.
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Old Jun 5, 2015 | 09:44 AM
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I've tuned thousands of trucks over the past 12 years and never encountered a corroded MAF connection. MAF problems I've seen have always been blown fuse, missing ground, cut wires by other tuners or dirty insides. Did you check the G103 location?
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