I need to get a good baseline tune for the new motor so I can get it broken in without worrying much about the tune.

Existing tune is a 2-bar MAF only open loop tune for the LQ4, Radix, 216/224 cam, 42# injectors.

What I was going to do for a baseline: Change injector scaling table for the 96#ers, change the cylinder size to the correct number, and bump up the MAF table by about 10%. You guys think that will get me close? New setup is the 408, 96# injectors, TSP ported LS6 heads, 235/239 cam, running N/A.

 

Why not just start with a stock LQ4 tune and scale all the injector tables for the 96 lbers. Then change the displacement and get going. Maybe increase VE by 3% or so and get to tuning! I think you'll be fine as long as your not nailing it every where while tuning just get on it a time or two and see how far off you are and scale that part. Are you planning on keeping the new motor 2bar SD or are you sticking with a MAF tune? I thought the MAF couldnt be used in 2bar?

 

If your MAF table is accurate now, it *shouldn't* need to be changed at all, as it is an air metering device, completely independent of engine displacement.

What I'd do is keep it in MAF only (table B0120 = 0) and log the PID GM.DYNCYLAIR along with MAP and RPM and make a log of your idle and part throttle cruise regions. Don't make any heavy throttle changes.

Then, use that data you just gathered (predicted g/cyl from the MAF) to fill out that portion of your VE table. You should be able to get a feel for what you'll need to put in the rest of the table, then start the VE-tuning process with your wideband.

Edit: You may have a rough time getting it to idle initially, so I'd bump the idle up a bit initially and log the RAFIG PIDs to find out what it needs. Play with the Bi-Di controls to find the timing it wants and what rpm you can idle comfortably at...

 

you, my friend, are one smart *** dood!

 

Thanks, I'll do that once I get past the initial start-up and break-in, but I need something that will work well right off the bat because I don't want to start a brand new motor, then have to shut it down right away. I want to be able to start and take a 20 minute drive. If the MAF table won't have to be changed I'll just change the injector scaling and displacement and bump up the idle and go, and make fine tuning changes later.