Ok I'll give it a shot with that table tomorrow and report back.

It will require a retune if the VE for changing the IAT back but not a big deal I'm learning as I go.

 

Ok changed that table, still have knock. I even put 110 octane fuel(leaded) in it still getting knock. I can foot brake it and it won't knock. So anymore suggestions?

 

Is it real knock? Audible? I sincerely doubt its real with 110 octane in it.

Here's some good advice How to test knock sensors - LS1TECH you would just go the opposite way to decrease sensitivity by multiplying by 1.1

I've had too many IPA's tonight to look at your tune again

 

Can't hear if pinging but the exhaust is loud.
You can feel it suck the timing out though. I'll test knock sensors tomorrow when I get home from work, I just recently changed the rear sensor and the harness due to a cel maybe the front one is bad too

 

I bet you can feel it - it pulls a lot of timing. Check all your adder tables that you can and verify against you HO and LO tables - sounds sh*tty but log all you can to try and find what is actually pulling the timing.

I would recommend to find another boosted tune that is as close to yours as possible in the registry and compare your tune against every value you can on every table to try and locate the discrepancy.

Sounds like a lot of work but I bet you find something weird that was messed with that wasn't supposed to be.

 

My .02,

1. Re-enable your MAF codes and set 0103 to 2-No MIL light
2. Re-enable your STFT
3. What MAP sensor are you using?
4. ETC Injector Disable - set all fields to 255
5. Power-Hop Injector Disable - set all fields to 255
6. Burst knock is still active/on - set all fields to 8.0
7. Knock recovery rate - set to .500 (still at stock values)
8. IAT Spark - zero out the table up to 131 degrees (leave everything past that as is)
9. PE Table - command 12.5 throughout the table (you only need boost AFR above 105kpa)
10. Boost Enrichment table - leave as is
11. Set the o2 switchpoints to 450
12. Closed Loop Enable - set to 131 degrees

*Retune the VE table now

Looking at the VE table, it almost looks like a stock 5.3 table. It could be any number of things. The things above will get you started on a solid platform.

The problem with trucks is that the knock sensors are super sensitive and the tuning is very very restrictive (you could fart and see knock). Some folks will take a 2002 z06 tune and use those knock sensor settings since they are a bit more less restrictive.

 

Ok

1 why?
2 why?
3 zr1 3bar

Why turn back on closed loop? I'll eventually go back to closed loop but I thought you tuned in OLSD then once good you turned CLSD back on?

 

And I'm not trying to question you please dont take it that way, I like understanding what I'm changing and why

 

1. You're not truly in SD mode. Unless 0103 code generates, it's not true SD.

2. Unless you're running leaded gas or this is an all out race car, turn them back on. You DO want the o2's on because they control fueling at part-throttle. With them off, there is no correcting of the fuel trims. If it runs leans, it's lean and the pcm can't compensate for it.

3. I understand the MAP values now.

 

P0103 has to be on first error. His MAF DTC setting are already 100% correct.

All 3 MAF dtc's to first error and the MAF fail high to 0hz is completely right. Settings the codes to 2 no mil light is incorrect and will not change anything.