all WB people..
#12
Have you tried recalibrating it?? I got my LC1 and XD1 gauge last weekend and found out shortly thereafter that my XD1 is defective. Since it has to be wired up differently if you are using both I have to wait to get one that actually works before I can even put it in
Nothing like waiting 3 weeks and now having to wait for them to recieve it, inspect it, order me a new one, and then ship to me again. I wouldve rather ordered direct and paid an extra $50.
Anyways, sounds like you may just need to recalibrate it. I doubt you burned it out that quick just from loading tunes.
Nothing like waiting 3 weeks and now having to wait for them to recieve it, inspect it, order me a new one, and then ship to me again. I wouldve rather ordered direct and paid an extra $50. Anyways, sounds like you may just need to recalibrate it. I doubt you burned it out that quick just from loading tunes.
#13
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 27,563
Likes: 3
From: Maryland
Originally Posted by greentahoe
Anyways, sounds like you may just need to recalibrate it. I doubt you burned it out that quick just from loading tunes.
#14
Originally Posted by dewmanshu
hmmm... how would i do that?
1. expose the sensor to ambient air, switch device on
2. you should have a switch that allows you to initiate the calibration process or ground the calibration wire briefly. The allow the calibration (usually takes 2 minutes)
3. Once its gone through the calibration, switch off and wait for 30 sec before you start the car.
You need to do this pretty frequently with any WB.
Id bet this is your problem
#15
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 27,563
Likes: 3
From: Maryland
Originally Posted by greentahoe
not sure on the dynojet WB, but most have a calibration wire that just needs to be grounded. Steps usually go like this
1. expose the sensor to ambient air, switch device on
2. you should have a switch that allows you to initiate the calibration process or ground the calibration wire briefly. The allow the calibration (usually takes 2 minutes)
3. Once its gone through the calibration, switch off and wait for 30 sec before you start the car.
You need to do this pretty frequently with any WB.
Id bet this is your problem
1. expose the sensor to ambient air, switch device on
2. you should have a switch that allows you to initiate the calibration process or ground the calibration wire briefly. The allow the calibration (usually takes 2 minutes)
3. Once its gone through the calibration, switch off and wait for 30 sec before you start the car.
You need to do this pretty frequently with any WB.
Id bet this is your problem
#16
Adkoonerstrator
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 21,436
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From: Deep in the seedy underworld of Koonerville
Yeah, the LM-1 has a calibrate button that you push to calibrate the sensor or you can power the LM-1 on for however many seconds with the sensor unplugged, then turn it off and plug the sensor in and it'll calibrate it. The wideband should read ~20.9 in free air if it's calibrated correctly.
#17
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 27,563
Likes: 3
From: Maryland
I tried "calibrating" both ways you guys speak of with no good results. I read in a ls1tech thread that dynojet is "self calibrating" and you shouldn't need to calibrate it. Hmmm. I'll call them today. In free air it only had ~18.4 .But I logged some fluke values. I talked to dynojet friday and they said that it is the ground 9/10 times. I said "BS...my grounds are good". They said they bet that at WOT the ground is letting the voltage drop. I said BS. But I'll test to eliminate it from your list of customer faults/problems ideas.
Hooked fluke up to incoming feed and ground for unit. At ALL times it read 13.7 volts. Then I opened the unit and tested the red wire and the black/white wire. Figuring these are the 12v supply for the heater/o2. The volts on this were every where....usually 6 volts but would flucuate to 9 volts. At WOT this red wire read 8.4 volts. I'll call them about this today but my gorunds are solid. I hate when companies say..."you have a lose ground somewhere". I always tell them I am an electrician (at least I play one on TV) it's F-ing grounded, move on for christ's sake. I would imagine that sensor needs a 12volt feed, which tells me the unit is bad. Because that unit is getting 13+volts at ALL times. ugh. It's amazing that you live without a WB for ever and as soon as you have one you just can't live without it.
It's just floors me that it works fine at 90% TPS. as soon as I go that last 10% it goes full lean.
Hooked fluke up to incoming feed and ground for unit. At ALL times it read 13.7 volts. Then I opened the unit and tested the red wire and the black/white wire. Figuring these are the 12v supply for the heater/o2. The volts on this were every where....usually 6 volts but would flucuate to 9 volts. At WOT this red wire read 8.4 volts. I'll call them about this today but my gorunds are solid. I hate when companies say..."you have a lose ground somewhere". I always tell them I am an electrician (at least I play one on TV) it's F-ing grounded, move on for christ's sake. I would imagine that sensor needs a 12volt feed, which tells me the unit is bad. Because that unit is getting 13+volts at ALL times. ugh. It's amazing that you live without a WB for ever and as soon as you have one you just can't live without it.

It's just floors me that it works fine at 90% TPS. as soon as I go that last 10% it goes full lean.
#18
Originally Posted by dewmanshu
Hooked fluke up to incoming feed and ground for unit. At ALL times it read 13.7 volts. Then I opened the unit and tested the red wire and the black/white wire. Figuring these are the 12v supply for the heater/o2. The volts on this were every where....usually 6 volts but would flucuate to 9 volts. At WOT this red wire read 8.4 volts. .
#19
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 27,563
Likes: 3
From: Maryland
You should here them on the phone, "ground the sensor to the negative terminal on the battery...by itself." They just don't want me to send it back. They said the voltage changes doesn't tell them any anything...I asked I am not sure how if it is ALWAYS getting 13.7 into the unit how getting between 4 to 8 isn't telling you something. They wouldn't tell me what voltage it should be (going out to the sensor). They just gave me a service ticket # and asked me to mail them the unit and sensor so they could test there.
I have a #8 ground coming from the post on the firewall to under underneath of the dash. Anything I add to the truck that needs a ground I terminate it to this block under the dash. The block is good for 600Volt 200Amp. That's right, 200Amp. All clean solid connections. I also replaced the jumper for the firewall, upsizing it as well.
Oh well, story of my life for the past year and this ***** of a truck. Nothing can just be F-ing simple. I guess I send it back and have them send it back saying everything checks out okay must be on your end. Then hook it back up and it all of a sudden magically works.
I have a #8 ground coming from the post on the firewall to under underneath of the dash. Anything I add to the truck that needs a ground I terminate it to this block under the dash. The block is good for 600Volt 200Amp. That's right, 200Amp. All clean solid connections. I also replaced the jumper for the firewall, upsizing it as well.
Oh well, story of my life for the past year and this ***** of a truck. Nothing can just be F-ing simple. I guess I send it back and have them send it back saying everything checks out okay must be on your end. Then hook it back up and it all of a sudden magically works.
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