View Poll Results: Should I attempt to rebuild 5.3 myself?
No, way to difficult
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Voters: 11. You may not vote on this poll
Shoud I attempt a 5.3 rebuild myself?
Jun 11, 2009 | 10:25 PM
#15
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13 Second Truck Club
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From: Arlington (DFW), Texas
That is the plan. I think Im going to go with new GM bolts for the heads. Once I send the heads to WCCH to be worked once the swap is done, Ill replace the head bolts with ARP. $29> $150 May do it now tho too.
Jun 11, 2009 | 10:43 PM
#17
If you are going to the trouble of tearing it apart get it bored. Boring the block should be no more than 200 bucks, the hone is the same whether you bore it or just clean it up cost wise.
Id look into forged rods and pistons for an iron 5.7, you would have an awesome motor then, Richard@WCCH can get them for you for a decent price.
Ive got all the tools to build the motor Id consider letting you borrow, after Im done building the LQ4 Im working on at the moment. Its not hard, just take your time. Me personally I dont like plastiqauge, a dial bore gauge and calipers is better IMO. If you have any questions, just post up, Ive got a list of all the stock bearing tolerances, and can tell you how to measure them all, along with ring gap. Ring gap will be decided by the ring manufacturer for your intended use though if you go with aftermarket.
Id look into forged rods and pistons for an iron 5.7, you would have an awesome motor then, Richard@WCCH can get them for you for a decent price.
Ive got all the tools to build the motor Id consider letting you borrow, after Im done building the LQ4 Im working on at the moment. Its not hard, just take your time. Me personally I dont like plastiqauge, a dial bore gauge and calipers is better IMO. If you have any questions, just post up, Ive got a list of all the stock bearing tolerances, and can tell you how to measure them all, along with ring gap. Ring gap will be decided by the ring manufacturer for your intended use though if you go with aftermarket.
Jun 11, 2009 | 10:45 PM
#18
All gaskets except heads and IMO replace the rear cover crank seal, that one can be finicky to get aligned right and would best to start off with a fresh one, the front timing chain cover seal, just dont tighten up the front cover until the crank pull is seated then tighten down the cover. This will keep the crank pulley from rubbing on one part of the seal and burning it up.
Jun 11, 2009 | 10:51 PM
#19
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13 Second Truck Club
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From: Arlington (DFW), Texas
I have been researching prices for two days. Im not 100% on staying 5.3 or going 5.7 yet. All the pricing I have done applies either way, just add on a bit here and there.
