Even if they get down to your happy price, keep working them. Thats how I got my dmax for such a deal. I was banking on spending a couple grand more and I was able to just keep working them. I think it definitely depends on the dealer as to how much theyll tolerate.

And another big thing, buy towards the end of the month. Theyve got a quotta to make monthly and its been my experience towards the end of the month theyre more willing to wheel and deal.

 

Tell em throw a $1000 gas card too lol

 

Get pre-approved for your loan with YOUR personal bank/credit union before you go. They will help you, just let them know that you've got it narrowed down to a few vehicles. Then when you're at the dealership, you only negotiate price, not payment. NEVER negotiate payment.

Oh, and always be willing to walk out the door. They will chase you down while you're trying to drive away, and even call you the next day to make the deal. When they know you're pre-approved at your own bank, they know you're there to buy. They don't want to lose a sale to another dealer down the street.

They want as much money as they can get on every deal, but they also know that any sale is better than no sale.

 

Offer way below what you will pay and meet in the middle if they want 13k offer 11.5 out the door and see what they say. When they say no, go home and wait on there call. When they call they weill probably Say 12.5 or something and you can say 11.7 or 12 etc you get the idea.

 

Show up with a loan check pre approved and you will have the most success (Negotiating payments for a used car is the last thing you want to do, find/make a budget and stick to it). Also remember it's their JOB to sell you the car, not your job to buy it... You have the advantange. Unless it's a killer deal move on, they made hundreds of thousands of 350z's, don't be afraid to walk out and go looking for another one.

 

Ok now how large of a loan should I get pre-approved for? And I'm guessing I shouldn't let the dealer know what this amount is? Also, should I keep dealing with the same salesmen at each dealership or would it be better to try new people? I can see positive and negative things with doing it either way.

I should probably also make sure to check things like tire wear and interior wear to knock the price down more right? A new set of tires for this car won't be cheap.

So you guys are saying I should base my price off of Edmunds/KBB/NADA dealer trade in value? I'm sure that's going to be a tough sell on my part to get them down that low but I'll see what I can do.

 

That's what I base my pricing on personally. I've always been able to at or below that value on the four vehicles I bought. It took some work and time but you cam get it. Just have to come in armed with the right knowledge and know what is a good deal.

I work the same person since they know what we've talked about. The bottom dollar the dealer can sell a car for is the same for all the salesman. Doesn't really matter what you get preapproved for imo. I've never had a letter, I just tell them I've got the financing covered. They don't have to know ****, they either want to sell a vehicle or not. 3 of the 4 cars I've bought have had the deal worked out over the phone. I get lots of pictures to make sure it looks good then I go to work on the price, if that works out I go look at the car in person. No use wasting your time dealer hoping if the money isn't right.

They will give you a price that they say is their bottom dollar then you work em a little more

 

here are things actual salesmen don't know at the dealership, my dad has been a General Manager for 25+ years at a local dealership.

they have vehicle cost plus pack,+ transportation/maintenece, + profit. Every dealer does it different, but you can guess pack will be anywhere from 300-800. This is to ensure the vehicle sales for enough to justify keeping the doors open. Next the transportation/maintenence, this is a cost that a dealer will incur when buying from a auction then having to service the vheicle and get it "front line ready". Then profit is added. Typically this profit can range from 3,000 to 5,000 or even more.

Don't be afraid to ask for service records on the vehicle, use that and those other few things to determine what you will offer! Remember always low ball them at first and work to a middle ground.


Long story: I purchased my wife a 2007 yukon. They retailed at the time for 32,xxx-38,xxx. I went in the dealership and told them I had some cash to put down but they had to work on the price. We haggled a few days and I paid 26,xxx out the door a few days later and didn't have to use my down payment money. Drove it for a year and owed 20,xxx on it and decided we wanted something newer. Went to a different dealer and found a traverse with everything. They were 32,xxx at the time so we asked for a straight trade, they said no....... we waited them out and ended up getting 29,xxx for my tahoe on trade in and bought the 2009 traverse with 26k miles for 30,xxx. So I was in a traverse for 21,000. Drove it a month and my wife hated it so we decided to look for another tahoe/yukon. Found a Tahoe with 30k 2008 model. Still in the mid to low 30's. I traded the traverse straight across and got a free tag for the tahoe. Drove it for almost a year and decided to get a car. Found a Infinity g35s with 30k miles on it. These were going for high 20's and I only owed 16,xxx on the 08 tahoe, we traded and it cost me 500 bucks. So now I have a 2008 g35s with 34k miles I owe 16,500 on and its worth about 25ish.

You can't be afraid to deal, just walk in with ya poker face on and don't let them talk you into it. Tell them you have to think about it, and give you a few minutes.

 

Best advice in the thread, IMO. Especially the part about negotiating the payment. When they ask, "What kind of payment are you looking for?" Your answer should be along the lines of, "A low one." A good bottom line and low interest rate will take care of getting a good monthly payment.

Also try to buy towards the end of the month. They are a lot more motivated to sell.

Most dealerships use N.A.D.A. price estimates

I would probably check out some 350z sites. See what the members there are paying. Take it with a grain of salt though. Some get *** raped and don't want to admit it.

Just remember, you dont need this car, you want it. They need to sell the car, and they want to sell it to you.

 

I've worked in a couple dealerships, on the service side. But I still picked up a couple things, the younger salesmen are out for one thing. Numbers. To please whoever's running the place. You'll be able to bend the guy that's been there 2 years a lot easier than the guy that's put in 25. The guy that's been there 6 months will just be running back and forth to the experienced guys.

Definitely be ready to walk away, but don't be the guy that makes a scene with a ridiculous offer and the the threat to walk away. Gotta be cool and professional about it. And there's one word they love. CASH. Say the sticker on the car is 16, tell the sales guy you'll cut a check right now if they can get it down to 12 out the door. Give them 10 minutes, if they can't do it just up and leave. Never, ever finance through a dealer. Ever.