Family Hauler
12-10-2015, 11:36 AM
#11
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There have been more people than not that have reported good GAINS with long headers and supercharging with proper tuning. At least around here...
Even 10-10.5:1 with a blower will be very snappy and make good low and mid range power. A very small camshaft would help, but it's easy to go too big. Honestly the stocker does fine up to around 450hp or so. It would also give you a little more cushion if you ended up getting a bad tank of gas somewhere etc. you wouldn't be living on the ragged edge. Heat, detonation, and other stresses are severely amplified when you're talking a 7000lb vehicle vs a 4000lb vehicle. Like I said before, gears, blower, tuning for certain. Then add around that. As far as gears, if you were to find one with stock 4.10's you could try that, but some 4.56's would be really nice with a little bigger tire than stock.
Even 10-10.5:1 with a blower will be very snappy and make good low and mid range power. A very small camshaft would help, but it's easy to go too big. Honestly the stocker does fine up to around 450hp or so. It would also give you a little more cushion if you ended up getting a bad tank of gas somewhere etc. you wouldn't be living on the ragged edge. Heat, detonation, and other stresses are severely amplified when you're talking a 7000lb vehicle vs a 4000lb vehicle. Like I said before, gears, blower, tuning for certain. Then add around that. As far as gears, if you were to find one with stock 4.10's you could try that, but some 4.56's would be really nice with a little bigger tire than stock.
Everything I look at has 3.73's. I want to say they no longer offered 4.10's on the GMT900 Burbs/Yukon XL's, but don't quote me on that. I'm not opposed to upgrading the gears, but I would definitely like to hear from a few that have done it to see how it affects RPM's on the highway. Or someone who knows the math. Thanks again. Very helpful!
12-10-2015, 11:48 AM
#12
The number one mistake I see when people setup somethings for hauling or a heavy vehicle in general is too tall of a rear gear. 4.56's, 33" tires, and a .75OD (4L80E trans) you'll still be below 2500rpm at 70mph. This would help with the slightly taller first gear of the 80E trans as well. Anything below 2600ish is plenty comfortable down the hwy for extended periods of time in my opinion and many guys run higher than that approaching 3000 with no issues. More often than not, the numerically higher gear ratio will get better fuel mileage as well due to the increased mechanical advantage the engine has on the vehicle. Basically saying, don't fear the gear. (I hate that saying but it's true lol)
You can play around with the numbers here : Simple RPM Calculator | RANDYS Worldwide
You can play around with the numbers here : Simple RPM Calculator | RANDYS Worldwide
12-10-2015, 11:57 AM
#14
True true. The ratio is changeable on that calculator. Good luck with it and definitely report back, I love builds like this!
One bit of unsolicited parting advice, don't skimp on tuning. Those transmissions can be worlds better with proper calibration. And you can gain/lose big power with tuning alone, reliability etc... And most expensive isn't alway the best here
One bit of unsolicited parting advice, don't skimp on tuning. Those transmissions can be worlds better with proper calibration. And you can gain/lose big power with tuning alone, reliability etc... And most expensive isn't alway the best here
12-10-2015, 12:19 PM
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You've got me thinking now, so Ibhave another question. Does anyone know if Burb 2500 and Silverado 2500 have the same axles? If I wanted to upgrade to 4.56's and they do. It offer this for either, can I still do this by just changing out the gears instead of the assembly? If so, what key information would I need to identify the correct gears aside from bolt quantity?
12-11-2015, 08:03 PM
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12-11-2015, 08:13 PM
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I do like this approach. I have already looked at upgrade costs to get the 6.0 gasser where I would want it. I'd start with cat-back exhaust and tuning, then later I would probably put a blower cam in and a smaller set of heads to improve torque down low. A smaller head, cam and a Maggie MP1900 TVS would have me running right at 12:1 effective and it should be a torque monster. Of course that second stage would cost in the neighborhood of $8,000 if I do the work myself ($6,000 for the blower alone). That's when it starts to seem pretty even with getting a 6.0 PSD. We have a local diesel shop that does great work and will do be cab-off bulletproofing with full machining, EGR delete, oil cooler, custom three stage tune, and head studsfor $6500. They have done over 400. After that, it doesn't take much to get on the neighborhood of 700-800 ft-lbs of torque with tuning and bolt-ons. The gasser is a newer, more comfortable ride and wil cost a lot less on maintenance. That's my dilemma between those two, but I am leaning towards the Burb.
I like the direction you are leaning. A Supercharged burb would be the shiznit! Certainly would give you bragging rights over Excursion. Plus it will tow anything you need it too. As much as I love the Ex, I still vote for the Sub. Plus I am doing the same thing with mine
Forced induction, trans upgrade, exhaust, etc. I currently have a 95 powerstroke and had an 04 duramax (around 600hp at the wheels according to my tuner) I am sick of the diesel game, to be honest. That is why I am deciding to build a forced induction suburban gasser. For the same money or less, I can do more and go faster. It just makes sense. I can do a quality forced induction set up for the cost of a trans build or a bullet proofing.
For me the cost and fun factor lined up, and now I have a new project. You do have to pay to play, but I would much rather my investment go farther. Certainly diesels have their place, but, I feel they have become the new ricer and ***** measuring contest.
Just my .03 cents worth.
