2012 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Gasser towing
#1
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2012 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Gasser towing
2012 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Gasser towing 6.0 6L90E 6in Suspension lift, 37s in tires, just re geared 4.56s with plans on a whipple for him.
Towing a 30-32 FT bumper pull tow hauler, RZR and family going in AZ up step inclines, hot weather, wondering if the electric fan conversion
1) as easy on it as 99-06 trucks I've done 100+ times or extra steps or even possible to began with.
2) Is it worth it to change from fan clutch, unlike Duramax's were stock is best.
Any other idea's that'll help with towing would be helpful!
Towing a 30-32 FT bumper pull tow hauler, RZR and family going in AZ up step inclines, hot weather, wondering if the electric fan conversion
1) as easy on it as 99-06 trucks I've done 100+ times or extra steps or even possible to began with.
2) Is it worth it to change from fan clutch, unlike Duramax's were stock is best.
Any other idea's that'll help with towing would be helpful!
#2
I have basically the same problem with a totally stock 2011 2500 6.0 auto with 20,000 miles and it runs hot towing a 5x8 cargo trailer to Payson.
Need to figure something out because I am afraid to tow my 8,000lb boat to Roosevelt.
Nobody seems to make a decent radiator that is bigger.
Not sure how an electric fan will help while towing, probably would in traffic, but mine only gets hot going up the hills.
What I don't understand is my stock 2013 1500 5.3 auto with 90,000 miles runs a bit cooler in the hills towing the 5x8 cargo trailer, but still too hot IMO.
Need to figure something out because I am afraid to tow my 8,000lb boat to Roosevelt.
Nobody seems to make a decent radiator that is bigger.
Not sure how an electric fan will help while towing, probably would in traffic, but mine only gets hot going up the hills.
What I don't understand is my stock 2013 1500 5.3 auto with 90,000 miles runs a bit cooler in the hills towing the 5x8 cargo trailer, but still too hot IMO.
#3
TECH Resident
I don't know much about the GMT900s, but have you guys looked at the diesel radiators? They should be larger. On the GMT 800s it requires core support swap to fit them.
Something is wrong if truck overheats towing a 5x8 trailer.
The general consensus is e fan don't offer much advantage towing, and may actually be worse than the mechanical fan clutch.
Since you have the 6L90e, look into bypassing the transmission thermostat. Superior STL010 I believe is the part number. If the cooler thermostat valve sticks, the cooler circuit does not flow and the transmission will overheat. Also a larger aftermarket trans. external cooler is a good idea.
Something is wrong if truck overheats towing a 5x8 trailer.
The general consensus is e fan don't offer much advantage towing, and may actually be worse than the mechanical fan clutch.
Since you have the 6L90e, look into bypassing the transmission thermostat. Superior STL010 I believe is the part number. If the cooler thermostat valve sticks, the cooler circuit does not flow and the transmission will overheat. Also a larger aftermarket trans. external cooler is a good idea.
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Earl Cordova (09-20-2023)
#4
I don't like hijacking another person's thread, but it appears that I am.
Mine are not overheating as in puking out coolant, they are running a lot hotter than my two GMT800's with 496s and 4 speed auto towing the same two trailers.
While looking for a solution the first thing I came across was the transmission thermostat in GMT900's, but found out GM didn't start to put them in until 2014.
I will research the idea of a diesel radiator, but doubt it would be a direct fit, as I really thought a bigger radiator would be the answer,
but after a lot of searching all I found were a couple of aftermarket radiators with poor reviews.
Mine are not overheating as in puking out coolant, they are running a lot hotter than my two GMT800's with 496s and 4 speed auto towing the same two trailers.
While looking for a solution the first thing I came across was the transmission thermostat in GMT900's, but found out GM didn't start to put them in until 2014.
I will research the idea of a diesel radiator, but doubt it would be a direct fit, as I really thought a bigger radiator would be the answer,
but after a lot of searching all I found were a couple of aftermarket radiators with poor reviews.
#5
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I don't know much about the GMT900s, but have you guys looked at the diesel radiators? They should be larger. On the GMT 800s it requires core support swap to fit them.
Something is wrong if truck overheats towing a 5x8 trailer.
The general consensus is e fan don't offer much advantage towing, and may actually be worse than the mechanical fan clutch.
Since you have the 6L90e, look into bypassing the transmission thermostat. Superior STL010 I believe is the part number. If the cooler thermostat valve sticks, the cooler circuit does not flow and the transmission will overheat. Also a larger aftermarket trans. external cooler is a good idea.
Something is wrong if truck overheats towing a 5x8 trailer.
The general consensus is e fan don't offer much advantage towing, and may actually be worse than the mechanical fan clutch.
Since you have the 6L90e, look into bypassing the transmission thermostat. Superior STL010 I believe is the part number. If the cooler thermostat valve sticks, the cooler circuit does not flow and the transmission will overheat. Also a larger aftermarket trans. external cooler is a good idea.
Ill look into the trans thermostat, didn't over heat but I do have to replace the radiator as the tank cracked.
The temps did stays way down further when towing first time with 4.56s done, and I think the supercharger will give me that extra umpf, especially in higher altitudes. I already have a large dereal trans cooler on the front of it that
#6
TECH Veteran
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A cooler thermostat might give the system a "jump start" for a little while, but once she gets working- temps will still climb
Replacing the stat with a new, known good one might be a start too. Your low mileage trucks might have stats that aren't opening all the way. Things sit and settle in and don't cycle for long periods of time- it's worth checking
cleaning the cooling stack is always good practice, make sure it's free of obstruction
all the factory plastics and ducts need to be in place up front- if air isn't getting where it needs to be, the system is already handicapped
if you're willing to make mods, adding an aux radiator is always approved, hood vents to dump fan air and high pressure air from cruising down the highway will help, lower temp clutch to draw air sooner(or tune to lock clutch sooner), high flow water pump (not sure if they exist for LS motors)
I have a 6.0PSD in a Van, with a lot of chassis mods adding weight, but a bone stock powertrain. I just went on a 980mi round trip from ABQ to Tucson, thru Las Cruces to pick up a car. Even towing my empty 18' car trailer that weighs 2100lbs, the fan was kicking on at 75mph. The fan kicks on at 228 with AC on and 240 with AC off. I had fan engagement with AC on and off
Why is this relevant? Well, temps climbing is fine and normal under use IF they come back down. Since both of you are saying the temps are coming down, I don't really think it's an issue. GM says "overheat" and reduced engine power is like 255?
**** my Triumph turns the fan on at 232!
You can make it better, but it might be doing what the system is designed to do anyway. Adding boost is a different story and I really really suggest changing the fan parameters and adding cooling for that scenario
Replacing the stat with a new, known good one might be a start too. Your low mileage trucks might have stats that aren't opening all the way. Things sit and settle in and don't cycle for long periods of time- it's worth checking
cleaning the cooling stack is always good practice, make sure it's free of obstruction
all the factory plastics and ducts need to be in place up front- if air isn't getting where it needs to be, the system is already handicapped
if you're willing to make mods, adding an aux radiator is always approved, hood vents to dump fan air and high pressure air from cruising down the highway will help, lower temp clutch to draw air sooner(or tune to lock clutch sooner), high flow water pump (not sure if they exist for LS motors)
I have a 6.0PSD in a Van, with a lot of chassis mods adding weight, but a bone stock powertrain. I just went on a 980mi round trip from ABQ to Tucson, thru Las Cruces to pick up a car. Even towing my empty 18' car trailer that weighs 2100lbs, the fan was kicking on at 75mph. The fan kicks on at 228 with AC on and 240 with AC off. I had fan engagement with AC on and off
Why is this relevant? Well, temps climbing is fine and normal under use IF they come back down. Since both of you are saying the temps are coming down, I don't really think it's an issue. GM says "overheat" and reduced engine power is like 255?
**** my Triumph turns the fan on at 232!
You can make it better, but it might be doing what the system is designed to do anyway. Adding boost is a different story and I really really suggest changing the fan parameters and adding cooling for that scenario
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Earl Cordova (09-21-2023)
#7
Launching!
I know this is an older thread but I had the same truc 37’s with 4:56 gears. I did dual spal 16” HO fans kept it nice and cool with my turbo set up on my 6.0l, and we know those turbo manifolds get hot. Never had an issue towing dump trailers in the summer. Make sure you run a 40k true cool radiator cooler too.
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