I snapped an ARP head bolt off in the block of my engine yesterday. it was the last bolt to be torqued. The wrench I was using never clicked, and my gut was telling me to stop, but I continued to torque waiting on the click. I'm trusting an expensive engine to a $50 wrench. What wrenches do you guys suggest? I don't use a torque wrench often enough to spend snap-on money, but I'm definitely ready to upgrade my harbor freight Pittsburgh wrench.

 

The problem with some of those cheaper click style wrenches come when people go slow with the turn of the wrench. The slower you go the less chance that the wrench will actually click at the proper torque figure, often you'll exceed the torque value by a lot and break the bolt. I always do a swift motion with those to make sure they click.

I bought the Quinn Digital Torque Wrench from Harbor Freight a while ago, it's one of my favorite tools now. It's got good reviews and I watched plenty of youtube video's on torque wrenches in the $150-200 price range. I too don't need this wrench everyday so I wasn't going to fork over $300-500 for a snap on, matco tools wrench.

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-...nch-64916.html

I had a coupon too when I bought it, got like 20% off.

 

Dam that sucks man were you able to get the broken bolt out of the block and can you buy a single ARP bolt or have to buy a new set? I used a cheap TEKTON 10-150 from Amazon on my build with no issues... BUT I used the OEM rod & main bolts that rely on the TTY angle after a light torque spec. I did use ARP head bolts and had no issues with the TEKTON. Wish I had a nice TW but I'm like you, I don't have a great need to invest in a Snapon and let it just sit in the box.

That looks like a good budget option.
I 100% agree on pulling a click type slow... you always seem to be able to keep turning the bolt more & more

 

When I told him I was rebuilding my LS3 and was looking for a quality torque wrench, one of the shop mechanics at the Chrysler PG told me to look at CDI. They are made by Snap-On, but represent the commercial side of the business. And are much cheaper. Picked up one of those and have been using it since. Probably one of the nicer tools that I have. I'd probably give them a look.

 

I did the exact same thing 15ish years ago with a Craftsman click style wrench. I chalked it up to being out of calibration and towards the top end of the torque range of that 3/8 drive wrench. Went and bought a larger 1/2 drive Craftsman and have been using it since with no issue. Luckily the ARP bolt broke jaggedly and I was able to removed the threaded piece in the block by applying pressure to the head end and twisting out by hand.

I am not sure I buy the 'wrench don't click if you move it slow' theory. The wrench should be measuring torque regardless of twist rate. A slow twist will measure the actual rotating drag from the threads and head mating surface. A quick twist will require more torque to rotate the screw at the accelerated speed. Same as break away torque to rotate a screw from rest will be higher than the in motion rotating torque as it tightens.

 

I was able to extract the bolt. the surface where it broke had a jagged spot. I stuck the remaining half of the broken bolt back down into the hole and with light pressure on top and a fast reverse on the impact it zipped right out. I'd like to go with a digital wrench this time around that way I can spot an issue if a bolt starts stretching before the torque value is reached.

What annoys me most is I recently assembled the bottom end of my engine using this questionable torque wrench. debating if i should back off every bolt and re-torque it with a new wrench. It never felt weird and i never got that bad gut feeling when putting the bottom end together.

 

I recall reading some good reviews on the Brownline digital torque wrench several years ago when dtw's were getting affordable. I have only used one myself and I believe it was an AC Delco (friend was a GM tech) and I liked it ok. It did have the green > yellow > red sequence lights with an audible beep but did not display the actual torque reading. The display was only for the torque setting. If I were to purchase one, I think I would want it to display the actual torque reading along with the torque setting and unit of measure.

 

I'm gunshy of using another harbor freight torque wrench, but everything i'm seeing about the quinn wrench that ffdp posted seems to be positive.

 

I wouldn't think about that for a second. Just redo it. If you snapped a head bolt off, what do you think the rod and main bearing clearances look like right now?

 

CDI is a good torque wrench as Jake mentioned. They are owned by the Snap on corporation.
Personally I own several Snap on Torque wrenches in various torque ranges. I never had a great feeling with the Electronic type torque wrenches until Snap On's newest version. I didn't purchase them all new either, some were second hand purchases but in like new condition. If I had not purchased those at various times I would definitely get the CDI to save the money. The only difference with the CDI version is the ratchet head.

I do not recommend any of the hardware/ tool store brands.

Pay 1 once, Cry once and take care of your investment.

Never use it to break bolts loose. Always wind it down as far as it will go to relax the spring. Even the lowest torque setting can cause the spring to loose its tensioning properties over time and throw off the accuracy.