wiring factory stereo to amp?
 

what do i need to wire up my factory radio to the amp.
i have rca inputs but where is the rca outputs on the factory radio?
do i need to wire some in?
thanks
Ed

It likely doesn't have RCA Out. You can wire them into the the Rears. Run your Remote wire from the amp to the radio. Should say Power Antenna or Accessory. Really any wire that is Hot when On and not when Off.

wire into the rears?
meaning wire the new rca jacks into the rear speaker wires?

Yes. Basically.
You need an audio feed and without an Output RCA from your stereo you will only get that feed from your front or rear speaker outputs.

You can get some of these and tap into it.
http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/produ...265295w345.jpg

so if i want to run the door speakers also,do i run a different amp and tie in another set of rca jacks into the different amp?

You confused me. If you tap into the speaker with the rca wire you will have 2 wires going to the speaker and 2 wires converted to RCA for the amp. All your doing is tapping into the feed. NOT completely cutting it off from the door speaker.

You CAN change out your door speakers and add an amp if you want but I personally wouldn't bother.

i understand about tapping into the door speakers,but i do have aftermarket in the doors also.
but to get all the door speakers amplified how do i go about it then?
do i just tap into the front speakers as well and run them to the amp?
i also have a extra set of tweets on the pilar.
i understand wiring up the sub,i will just tap into the rear speakers.(behind the seat)

Here's another thread on the same subject in case someone worded it better than I did.

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...&highlight=amp

josh your doing fine.
i just wanna make sure i do understand.
i actually have the LOC's also,they are adjustable.
so i can use the locs for the front speakers and then tap into the rear speakers for the sub.

Yes. I had actually posted the other link at the same time you replied. You just beat me on the post.
I'd do the doors the same as your doing the Sub.
The only difference in wiring is where they go really. You can either get your front feed by tapping in behind the radio or behind each speaker. Whichever you think will be a cleaner install and allow you to hide the wires better.
Run the front and rear outputs into a 4 channel amp and then from the amp to the speakers.
Unless you are leaving the rear 4x6"s unhooked in which you would have a 2 channel amp but you get the idea.

Unless someone chimes in with a better way to do it that i'm not aware of.

thanks
Joshua,i use to pay a guy $300 to wire my stuff up.:sigh:
no more will i do that:usa:

Just make sure your feed from the radio to the amp isn't also still hooked up to the speakers, that would be bad. Doubt you'd make that mistake but I've been wrong before.

Also think ahead and make sure you can return it back to stock easily if you need to. So don't chop off a lot of wires when you don't need to.

you are going to need a line out converter, its just a little box that converts speaker level signal down to rca levels, just hooking the speaker outputs from the stereo to the rca inputs on the amp would overdrive the shit out of the amp. i just t-tapped the harness right behind the deck on my truck and hooked up the L.O.C., t-taps are just little solderless connectors that pierce the insulation and slide over the wire, so no cutting and resplicing. then the rca's plug into the L.O.C. and run to the back like normal, also there is a wire to tap into for your signal wire (remote on/off) ill post up a pick, but its a system wire and your amp will stay on when the key is out, until you open the door, just like all the accessorys.

L.O.C. something like this
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....ci_sku=9066093

I checked on the Accessory wire but not sure which to use. Forgot that the new systems turn on by the OG data line.
the OG data line is Pin 1. Can he use that?


Edit: there is a line out converter that can be used. PAC AOEM-GM24

i actually have those from my old system.
the guy i bought my truck from had a system in the truck,he took the stuff out, i just hope it doesnt look like a rats nest behind the stereo.
the L.O.C.s that i have are up in the attic right now,i will look at them tomorrow.
the L.O.C. is there a bunch of wires or is just a couple.
looks like the converters from best buy will run a set of speakers,both left and right side,and maybe a couple more.
or i could keep it simple and purchase this?
http://www.installationproducts.com/...t.A/id.1241/.f
i do not have the bose system

ok i went outside and took my dash apart so i could get some pics for ya, sorry they're not that great its dark and the flash was way too bright so i had to use a little flash light to get some light on it, worked, but not the greatest.

ok this is the bundle of wires under the steering wheel, you can see its the top left connector you want to tap
http://i538.photobucket.com/albums/f...b/P1020487.jpg

and heres a little closer up of that grey connector, its kinda hard to see, but you want the blue wire, top row, third from the left. use this to turn on and off your amp, mine goes on and off with the radio and even when i turn off and take out the key, my amp will stay on till i open the door.
http://i538.photobucket.com/albums/f...b/P1020479.jpg

and heres a shot of the quick little tap job behind the radio, my L.O.C. is alot bigger but it still fits back there just fine, and they are simple, just 4 wires, a positive and a negative from each speaker, just make sure the phasing is right or you will have a problem, you know + to + and - to -
http://i538.photobucket.com/albums/f...b/P1020483.jpg

Line level converters.They splice into your speaker wires and turns that signal into an rca input.Be warned though,installing a line level converter on your factory stereo,esp a Bose system,it will sound like DOG SHIT.

You need a JL Audio Clean Sweep or equivalant if you want it to sound good.

well to each his own, but im gonna disagree, set up right they sound just fine. the jl clean sweep is a great product, but kinda expensive. if a loc is used and the gains are adjusted properly excellent results are easily achievable.

Some people think there stereo's sound good,others know it sounds like SHIT.Like the guys in the ghetto bumpin there bubbles,they think it sounds good but it really sounds like ASS.

If u dont mind distortion or muddy sound,by all means,get a cheap line level converter and crank that shit....

Then again,I can see why you might think line level sounds good.Car audio products really went to shit in the late 90's and I am sure most here wouldnt know good car stereo if it bit them in the ass,just because its not made anymore.There are only a few car audio products that compare to 15,even 20 years ago.Hell,you have to spend about $1000 just to get a 24 bitt burr brown dac when they used to put them in the cheapest of cd players.All amps used to have military spec electronics on the inside.Now a days,amps burn up ALL the time,even the supposed good ones.

Check ebay,when you see 20+ year old electronics going for more than new,that ought to be a GOOD clue.

How long have you been into stereos?If the anwser is less than 11-12 years,you should have been around in the good old days and you would know what you are missing and that line level converters are horrible for sound.,HORRIBLE.

so what are you suggesting?
im not going for competition or anything:secret:

Esp on the Bose systems with there built in equalizer.Talk to a car stereo shop and they will tell you line level + bose head unit=shitty sound

Hell,google it and youll see how wrong your statement was....

lol! read post 20

If you dont want it to sound like shit,use the JL Clean Sweep or equivalant.RF 360.2 is supposedly good but I have no experience with it personally.

Or just replace your head unit with an aftermarket if you dont want to use the Clean Sweep.

I dont compete and I have one in my truck.Do you know why?Because I didnt want it to sound like dog shit.....

i have gotta sling some mud here at ya broke1.
not saying you dont know shit about STEREO'S.
but you dont know shit about DURAMAX'S
:jest:

I know my stock 454 Vortec will tow circles around one...any idiot who says differntly must have never looked at there EGT gauge when towing with there Dmax.

And my Dodge diesel will MURDER any of the DMaxx's ive run into in my town.Hell,my 5 speed in line 6 cylinder is faster than alot of you guys gas trucks.

Every vehicle I have has a HUGE stereo and has for the last 15 years.

There is over 3000rwhp sitting in my driveway right now and the one with the LS based engine is the slowest I have....

Just because you think dmax is the shit doesnt make it so.Just like the guy that thinks line level converters sound good,just not true....

And my stock 454 puts down 197hp/410ft lbs to the rear wheels,rated at 275/440.Lemme see if I can find the dyno graph....

I could care less what some dumb ass thinks they know about the 454 Vortec's.I know they are stronger than the 10 Dmax's my immediate family has owned....fact is,the fools who are quick to spout of that dribble have never driven or probably seen one....the stupidness on the internet or people willing to beleive the fools is sometimes shocking....

If anyone semi local wants to do some betting,lets load trailers and race up a long hill for a few thousand $$'s.Me in my stock 454,the other in whatever kind of Dmax they want to bring,dont care if its heavily modded and pushing 1000rwhp,its still limited by EGT when towing that trailer....

why are you turning this into a pissing contest? i gave you credit i said that "the jl clean sweep is a great product" and all i was getting at is that they are pricey, for the 3 hundred dollars they cost you could just buy a whole new deck. i could see using a jl clean sweep if i had steering wheel controlls on a factory touchscreen navigation unit with rear backup camera and integrated bluetooth and and a factory dvd system and i wanted to keep the deck. but for just to add an amp to a little stock cd player deck a clean sweep is kinda expensive.

LOL
its all good.
my original stereo guy and you talk the same kind of talk.
he hates the majority of stereo guys on this planet.:nod:
back to the JL clean sweep wow that thing is HIGH!!!!!

real expensive and a little over kill for a stock unit.
i just dont wanna buy a after market unit,some asshole would just steal the aftermarket unit.

I bought my CS for $150 on ebay.

If you ever have plans on adding a cd changer or mp3 player or the like,by the time you get line level converters,cd changer controls,aux input,you will be well over $200 and still have a radio that sounds like shit.

006rcsb,no ones turning it into a pissing contest,your statemnt was so wrong and out there,I didnt want anyone who didnt know any better to read it,think it was true,and actually follow your reccomendation and be VERY unhappy and waste there hard earned $$$$ on shit.

What's a tool?

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...mpaign=froogle

Tap the wires into each of the rear speaker wires,
run your rcas straight to that behind the deck.
run the remote turn on wire from the amp to acc. wire behind the deck.
Look up a wiring diagram for your make and model and you will find which color is the accesory

Pretty sure that's almost exactly what we already told him over a week ago.