ironcityboom

Yea it's wired in to the factory fuse block heres a picture of the distribution block up front, the green dot wire is from the starter and the yellow dot wire is the power wire from the fuse block. The wire with the circle around it is the alternator Wire (now 1 gauge) and runs back to the cut off switch by its self.




The relay in the back is for the Fuel pump. Here's how it's wired.

BigKID

iTrader: (5)

If that last pic of the distribution block under the hood is current condition, that's your problem. It is missing the source from the cutoff switch. However picture 3 in post#1 shows it leaving the cutoff switch (red dot).

Did you remove any grounds from the underhood fuse box?

BTW... per your diagram, the 'Ground to Block' wire is not needed with the upgrades from Battery to Frame and Block to Frame. The frame is your common ground path. Adding the 'Ground to Block' wire introduces a ground loop. Obviously not the cause of the 'no power' issue you are experiencing, and my not have any detrimental effects, but could affect some sensitive electronics or produce noise in audio equipment.

ironcityboom

The last pic is not the current condition it was just the only picture I had of the front distribution block. The wire (red dot) indeed does come to the front and attach at the distribution block.

As far as the ground was concerned I thought it would've been better to run one up to the motor initially, after the first no power condition I added the block to frame ground. I'm not really concerned with anything audio bit if I notice any other issue I'll remove one.

ironcityboom

MYSTERY SOLVED

Started at the back of the truck and quickly figured out both switch and grounds were fine, moved to the distribution block up front and again everything was fine. Went to the fuse block anddd there it was... I mistakingly mixed up the two 12v points on the fuse block, my 12v Wire from the distribution block was essentially only throwing power to the efan relay and not the fuse block. Switched them around and wahla everything works as advertised.

Next order of business is to put the efans on a switch.

ezdaar

iTrader: (1)

Efans on a manual switch is a damn good way to burn a vehicle down

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

Pretty sure, hopefully, he means use a switch to a relay that controls the efans. Can even get fancy and use a DPDT switch to manually control both high and low.

ironcityboom

Exactly what I meant.

ironcityboom

Anyone ever deal with anyone at Nelson Performance. Called them about their efan harnesses, and they told me since the truck is an 05 and had efans stock that you just splice a switch in to the factory relay to a ground since they're ground activated? Just wondering if they're correct? I know it's more complicated if your installing efans in a 99-04 but if if the harness and relay are already present and added a switch like said I wouldn't think it's an issue as long as the switch is rated for the amps.

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

That is correct as long as you just want a switch to control high or low separately. Except "high" is grounding both wires not just the one. To do that correctly you have to get a little more creative since you dont want the low to also trigger the high as well.

Fullpower

Having mounted the BATTERY, you could JUST run one short cable to the truck frame, and one long cable to the Starter Solenoid..... nothing beyond that is necessary.