here's a box me and silverdenali22 built to go in his old truck. this **** pounded pretty good.

 

The boxes were custom. The amp is screwed through the cab, and bottom is screwed through the bottom of the cab.
Big 3?

 

This is current...



Looks very puffy but has kind of settled down...the covering around the port has blown off due to excessive port blowing so I need to recover it and sharpie/paint it up...

This is old system with seats removed after a hard year of serving as a work truck...and I'm 6'1

 

great craftsmanship man!

and to the post above... i would guess FI Q, yet the motor looks like a NEW BTL?

 

big 3 is simply the main power and ground wires that keep your trucks electrical system running.

replace (or add to):
the power wire between the battery and alternator
the ground from the battery to the chassis
the ground strap from the engine/tranny to the chassis.

Other grounds are usually upgraded during this process as well (firewall to frame).

Replacing these stock wires with lower resistance 1/0 gauge can fix most of the problems people experience with current draw and blame on their battery or alternator.

Not to mention people generally see improved gas mileage after doing this.

**NOTE: the power wire from the alt to the battery is a fusible link, rather than swapping this wire, i strongly recommend piggybacking with a FUSED wire. Failure to do this can lead to loss of charging abilites while driving down the road and even severe electronic equipment damage.

 

I did pretty much the same as you, except I removed the carpet and glued mounting blocks to the back wall inside the truck so I could mount my amp to that instead of putting screws through the truck. I have 10's, 1000watt amp, and I built my boxes. I'll try to post pictures if I can get off my lazy *** and get my camera.

 

to add to bassballer's topic of big 3.... run your ground wire out the bottom of your cab and ground it to the frame.

dependent on how much power you're running, this is a big diff vs relying on the thin sheet metal ground points of the cab or body. if you really don't want to do that, then i suggest using the street wires grounding block inside the cab and then under the hood from the body to the battery. make a clean metal to metal contact between the grounding block and body, put some dielectric grease to prevent corrosion.

 

I have a 10' JL W6 in mine, fits perfect and I am a big guy. I am 6'3 so making sure the seat went all the way back was a big thing when we built this box. Center seat does not fold up anymore, but I do not care. Carpet seams are no longer visable BTW :wink:.--Tony

 

Two 12's were SSD's and the 10 is a BL.

Comp vehicle will have BTL's in it I hope when I get around to it aka getting money and a car and sponsors. hahahah.

 

i do custom interiors on the side here and there, my old truck had at one time 6 12"s in cab with-out a blow through box and after that had 4 15" in cab with blow through. i'm 6'3" and had plenty of leg room with both. if u want PM me with an idea of what u want and ill send u a lay out or diagram or what ever to ur email or whatnot.