So I am having trouble figuring out why my lights won't turn on! I've tried wiring them every which way to no avail. I'm wondering if based off these pictures if y'all can help me get my lights running correctly?!
I know the relay is wired correctly. I think it has something to do with how the fusebox is wired, or the relay is bad.

The relay is a 12V 20/40 Amps SPDT, and I'm using a SPST toggle switch.

 

That red box is not a ground, it's 12v only.

 

Sorry if the picture is misleading, but there are no wires going to the red box in the background.

 

Are you trying to provide a switched ground or +12V to the lights from the relay? I am presuming switched +12V for the switch and lights.

According to the pictures and their labeling, The relay is not doing anything. You have the switch ground and light power source looped thru the fuse. If your switch is providing +12V to the relay, move the "ground from relay" to the ground bus on the fuse box. Then move the "power from relay" to the load side of that fuse (where you just removed the ground from). The relay would work just by moving the ground but the lights and relay would not be protected from overcurrent by the fuse.

 

Lets start over, do this (attached picture).

If you want the ability to turn the lights on all the time use the battery as the "12v source". If you want to have to have the key in and turned use a switched source in the cab (like the instrument panel) using an add-a-circuit from the parts store (~$4).

 

Gotcha, and there shouldn't be any need for me to run a ground wire from the negative battery terminal to a chassis ground like the diagram shows correct?

 

Any reason you are adding that fuse block instead of a simple fuse tap?

Your wiring will also be alot simpler and cleaner if you put the switch on the ground and grounded the relay through the switch inside the cab. Think one wire running into cab instead of two and no potential for electrical fires if it shorts to ground.

Also, please donot drill a hole into any major dash components. Use a oem fog light switch in the oem location so its done correctly.

Use atomics diagram, but instead, loop 30 directly to 86 with a small 4" wire and put the switch on 85, the ground side.

 

I am using the fuse block to help keep things more organized (I will be adding a number of accessories after I get this figured out). I will definitely try your suggestions, and yeah, I've got the switches covered. No tacky holes in the dash for me!


edit: sorry the pictures is sideways, it wasn't when I uploaded it so I'm not really sure what happened.

 

I remember when i built my space shuttle interior back when i was a youngin.
Lighted rockers, 12v precision voltage and amperage guages, wires running here and there, full complement of aftermarket guages for oil, trans temp, etc.
second battery in tool box located in the bed.

It cought fire twice, learned alot of hard lessons back then.

 

That would work fine certainly, but if he wants to use a lighted switch or have it accessory driven then it needs to be on the 12v side. Still only 1 wire needed from the dash area if he pulls the ground or 12v from the dash.