skindog39

Kenwood head units are great, so good move there. The downfiring box is also a good plan. I would definitely consider getting new door speakers instead of leaving the stock ones in there.

The design of stock speakers is not very intriguing. They are designed to hit highs, mids, and lows. They are also made of paper. If you get a set to focus on your highs and mids and then create the low bass sound from the rear of the cab (with subs)....your all around sound will be perfect. I would suggest getting alpine door speakers (type-r if they make them for your sizes); type-s otherwise) with a 4-channel amplifier to power them.

Remember, when you power any speaker...to properly pick out your amp DO NOT match the "max power" ratings....match the RMS power outputs. Example: if you have four speakers that put out say 10-40 watts RMS, then you will need a four channel (since there are 4 speakers) amplifier that puts out around 40 watts RMS per channel (4x40w RMS).

In terms of subs, the best setup, for the cost, you could get in your truck would be two 10" alpine type-s subs (in a downfiring box of course) powered by a 2-channel amplifier to match or slighly below the max RMS outputs of the subs. Some good amps include: kenwood, infinity, mtx, alpine, rockford fosgate, kicker, treo, matts audio...

Good luck!!

skindog39

the 10" type-s subs register a max rms rating of 300 watts....if you were to get these the amp for you would be the Kicker KX850.2. This is an expensive amp but it will serve you well. I wouldn't recommend kenwoods because of the way they sound. They are powerful subs, but they do not hit cleanly. They are loud as **** but they have a slightly distorted sound to them.

PHIL H

iTrader: (13)

Do you know the pn for the alpine subs? I see there are 3-4 different ones. So this would be a pretty killer setup then? Have you used this setup before or heard someone elses? Thanks again for the help.

Phil

skindog39

I have seen each component of this setup used before.....but never in one vehicle...I think if all of these components were brought together that it would make for a hell of a good sound system. The part # on the alpine's is SWS-1222D. I forgot to tell you earlier that if you can find this stuff on ebay go for it...I have bought almost everything in my truck off there and have never had a problem. Just make sure the seller has above 98.5% positive feedback. And if they offer shipping insurance on the item, pay it. That way if anything DOES go wrong, you can get a new part or get your money back, guaranteed. Hope I was able to help you out!

-Alex

BadAssChevy327

iTrader: (7)

mtx thunder subs or fosgate . kicker amp , or memphis , class d perferably . donwfiring box . not forward , sound better and louder down and also u aint gotta orry bout some drunk friend helling it or **** hitting it

unredeemed

iTrader: (2)

FYI as a word to the wise, not all woofers are made to be mounted downward firing.

If done on a woofer not designed for it, you'll have the cone sag over time and risk having your woofer over-excurse (sp?) and/or increase the risk of bottoming out.

What makes a woofer downward firing compatible? Well read this whitepaper from Adire Audio
http://www.adireaudio.com/Files/Tech...rientation.pdf

BadAssChevy327

iTrader: (7)

well i was just going by what i was told . his best bet though is to have the subs face protected . with either one hell of face plate or under the seat .

95stroked1500

don't worry about sag. "technically proper" and what realistically works don't always jive. some purists rotate their subs 90 deg every couple months. and

those are mounted vertical. if you buy fosgate subs,....you better hope they sag. put your xmax linear both ways where it belongs. because their quality control in the orient sure didn't make sure it was proper.
unless you're playing with fosgate's top amps....don't play with them at all. i

have no respect for them.... . it depends on what you want for performance. but here's a hint......if you can get it from circuit city, best buy, etc..... it sucks. at least to my standards. 900 watts for $150.....dream on. here's another.....if a brand

is super well known because of how much they spend on advertising..... they've got to make up for it some where. and it is made up with a product that isn't as good as the other brands that spend their $ in R&D and better quality parts and craftmanship.

unredeemed

iTrader: (2)

I never said it wouldn't work. Just expect them to overtime to sag and prematurely wear out.

I'm a huge HT fanatic, car audio takes a backseat to my home audio endeavors. So I've done many many HT systems for both friends and family, from IB sub systems that will run as low 12Hz at 112db in room, to simple bookshelfs and MTM setups that would rival many retail products.

So what I practice in HT setups, follows me into the car, and this goes especially with sub box designs. I've seen too many car audio installers just build a box and expect it to go with no thought on time delays, freq extension, etc. the majority of this forum is no different actually.

Hopefully individuals like your self 95stroked1500 and F8L_Z71 can shed some light into box building designs, theories, and basics. Not the typical back yard mechanic, "give it about a cu ft, with some stuffing and you'll be good." kind of remark.

PHIL H

iTrader: (13)

Thanks again for the help..Does anyone have any part #'s for amps and subs for me? Just a simple basic affordable deal is what i am looking for. Not looking to win any competitions or anything. I have decided on the dual 10 inch downfire box at least.

Phil