calling LED guru's!!
11-17-2012, 07:39 PM
#11
Thanks for the info guys. I ordered a ton of Blue leds , both flat top and round top, some are 5000 mcd, some 6000 mcd and some 13000 mcd. Didnt know what the mcd meant which is why I ordered different ones. I'm too impatient to order a set this week then wait a week for them to come and decide they arent what I want and go through it again lol. All the resistors have came already still waiting on the leds though.
The dash lights and twist sockets came in yesterday and I installed them, but the sockets they sent would not line up with the plastic back cover and would not light up the bulbs, which kind of irritated me since thats money wasted. I ordered both the bulbs and sockets from superbrightled.com so I assumed they'd work. I did get the in though, managed to take the factory bulbs out of the factory sockets and put the leds in them.
Did anyone else run into this problem or is it just my bad luck?
The dash lights and twist sockets came in yesterday and I installed them, but the sockets they sent would not line up with the plastic back cover and would not light up the bulbs, which kind of irritated me since thats money wasted. I ordered both the bulbs and sockets from superbrightled.com so I assumed they'd work. I did get the in though, managed to take the factory bulbs out of the factory sockets and put the leds in them.
Did anyone else run into this problem or is it just my bad luck?
Here's what I did. I dremeled out the slots in the back of the black back cover so there was no contact with the twist lock bases. Then you have to turn the twist locks just enough so they're tight, but not all the way or the metal connectors will not contact the circuit board properly. Just takes some frustrating trial and error.
End result:
11-17-2012, 10:25 PM
#12
re-using the factory sockets really isnt that hard, or wasnt to me, probably less time than the way you did, not saying it was bad since it obviously worked. All I did to re-use them was use a knife to work the bulbs out without braking them and pulled the metal connectors out then straighten the wires on the leds and fish through then put the metal connectors in and wrap the wire back around so it contacts the metal like factory, took about an hour to do it this way
11-18-2012, 08:34 AM
#15
Yeah, the twist locks from superbright led are crap. If you look carefully, the alignment of the twist lock in the board is not the same as the OEM Wagner twist locks. And there's really no feasible way to reuse the stock twist locks.
Here's what I did. I dremeled out the slots in the back of the black back cover so there was no contact with the twist lock bases. Then you have to turn the twist locks just enough so they're tight, but not all the way or the metal connectors will not contact the circuit board properly. Just takes some frustrating trial and error.
End result:
Here's what I did. I dremeled out the slots in the back of the black back cover so there was no contact with the twist lock bases. Then you have to turn the twist locks just enough so they're tight, but not all the way or the metal connectors will not contact the circuit board properly. Just takes some frustrating trial and error.
End result:
You can't miss the boost gauge in the bottom left corner of the IP. Were you able to bore a hole in the circuit board there and install a 2 1/16" gauge? Sorta what I'd like to do with my trans temp gauge.
Thanks..
12-02-2012, 12:01 AM
#17
has anyone ever did the LED's in the traction control switch? I tried but for some reason the TRACTIO OFF stays on now and wont cut off. its 1am so can't check fuses to see if maybe I blew one or something. its just p*ssing me off, when I started this whole thing all my lights worked flawlessly, and now its one thing after another 
dang LED's in the gauges have the annoying hot spots, the cargo/fog light switch works great, I managed to burn up the passenger air bag switch and haven't tried doing the new one yet. now this with the traction control, very annoying I want to get it done so I can spend money on a glove box to finish my console swap instead of on new switches
dang LED's in the gauges have the annoying hot spots, the cargo/fog light switch works great, I managed to burn up the passenger air bag switch and haven't tried doing the new one yet. now this with the traction control, very annoying I want to get it done so I can spend money on a glove box to finish my console swap instead of on new switches
12-02-2012, 08:37 AM
#18
Ok its 9:35 am now, just checked the switch again, with the lights off, the Traction Off is still lit up, so I dont think it would have anything to do with the LED since it isn't geting power to burn. I have auto headlights so didnt think to mash the interior overide button lastnight to cut all the lights off.
I checked the fuse boxes but I dont see any fuse labeled for the traction control??? which fuse would it be to check? Ive tried doing a search online but I'm not coming up with anything other than people saying pull the fuse pull the fuse to cut it off perm.
I checked the fuse boxes but I dont see any fuse labeled for the traction control??? which fuse would it be to check? Ive tried doing a search online but I'm not coming up with anything other than people saying pull the fuse pull the fuse to cut it off perm.
12-11-2012, 06:40 PM
#19
well Ive got most of the led's in, still have to do the headlight switch which Im nervous about because I tore it apart and now the dome override isnt working right but I bought another and am going to retry it. heres a few pics so far, still working out the hot spots , its not as hard as I thought, just very time consuming with trying to get the light even and all the bulbs angled just right
the pics suck because they are from my phone and I have no flash or anything on it.
the pics suck because they are from my phone and I have no flash or anything on it.
01-13-2013, 09:56 AM
#20
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Don't want to start up another thread for just this, but I was wondering what is needed for wiring in SMD's?
Do they need resistors like the conventional LED's?
The reason I ask is that I want to buy a couple hundred different kinds of LED's and do some work for myself and around town. I've already purchased a couple hundred of the conventional type and resistors. Now I want SMD's for tight spots and more important places.
Do they need resistors like the conventional LED's?
The reason I ask is that I want to buy a couple hundred different kinds of LED's and do some work for myself and around town. I've already purchased a couple hundred of the conventional type and resistors. Now I want SMD's for tight spots and more important places.