yeah i am talkin about an optima or optical 6 or somethin like that thats dry cell to replace your TRUCK battery, not as a secondary battery.....i have a 1456 RMS amp and 421 and 425 RMS amps that run all the time i am driving. Upgrades: big three, one run of 0ga. to 4ga. and 2 runs of 8ga., and an optical 6 dry cell battery....

never touched the alt. and never put a second battery in, have been running it since about July and my headlights dont even dim.....i am looking for a little bit bigger alt. just in case though

 

now back to your question.....

the LOC wouldnt have anything to do with your amp being fried, you need power for that to happen and RCA wires only carry signal not power....

sounds to me like the amp overheated but for some reason didnt go into protect and didnt blow fuses, for whatever reason i dont know and you might never know.....

now you just need to make sure it doesnt happen again...make sure you keep it cool this time around....either with a fan or mounting it in a different location.....

 

You need to set your gains with a multimeter

 

oscilliscope


the way you do it with a multimeter relies on the amp builder not over rating their amp. you do the multimeter method with a hifonics, you'll clip the shitttt out of it.

RCAs can fry your amp, if you have the rca's hooked up without the ground hooked up, the amp will try to ground through the RCAs and **** the inputs.

 

well assuming you know how to hook up an amp the rca's shouldnt fry your amp........thats like getting killed by a taser.....

 

Even better. I suggested the MM because not everyone has access to an oscilloscope. And Hifonics amps aren't THAT shitty. They're good for cheap daily beat. If you have an electrical system that will support it, you'll be fine. Hifonics are very inefficient to say the least.

 

I run a 1606 daily at one ohm, never skipped a beat, it benched at 1510 watts. I paid 275 for it, I think that's a stunner of a deal.

 

I'd like to see the bench sheet with that. Is that at 14.4v? Who benched it? The 1600's usually run around 1300-1400 true RMS watts.

 

Benched at my local audio shop at 14.4, at 13.8 it put out 1425. The brutus amps are really inconsistent. We tested five at 14.4 and they varied from 1450-1525.

My charging system does 14.2 volts, so give or take 1500 watts maybe a little less. It really doesn't matter, I don't think I can tell the difference between 1350 and 1500.

 

thats the good thing about a rockford amp.....you buy a 1000watt power series amplifier and it says 1456 rms at one ohm on the birth certificate.....might be more expensive but i like the quality of the rockfords from what ive seen.....