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My paint is F'ed after getting it back from the chassis shop. How to fix?

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Old Jul 24, 2010 | 11:50 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by 1low4x4
ok i can't help it. This is the stupidest **** i have ever heard in my life. Take the truck down there to the shop that fucked it up and make them fix it or pay to fix it. Doesn't matter how well of a job they did on the chassis or rollcage or whatever, if they don't know how to prep or take precautions then the rest of their work is worthless as **** on a boarhog.

Don't you see the pattern in this thread of every single person telling you the shop needs to fix it? And all we get is a "the shop recommended a clay bar too"

lol how nice of them.
this x2
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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 02:33 AM
  #42  
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blown06, just came across the thread, sorry to hear about your problem. more than likely youll need a new paint job IF the clay bar, acid wash doesnt work. Daryn C's idea is goofy, dont do that lol bc it'd be really messed up if someone really did key your truck anyways im with blown06, no need to bash the chassis shop simple as that. everyones opinion is exactly that, their opinion. i say let it ride, if they help cool, if not then oh well look into getting it fixed yourself the best of luck man, i hope its an easy, and cheaper fix than a new paint job.

keep us posted please, and dont worry about the "Bashers"
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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 02:33 AM
  #43  
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blown06, just came across the thread, sorry to hear about your problem. more than likely youll need a new paint job IF the clay bar, acid wash doesnt work. Daryn C's idea is goofy, dont do that lol bc it'd be really messed up if someone really did key your truck anyways im with blown06, no need to bash the chassis shop simple as that. everyones opinion is exactly that, their opinion. i say let it ride, if they help cool, if not then oh well look into getting it fixed yourself the best of luck man, i hope its an easy, and cheaper fix than a new paint job.

keep us posted please, and dont worry about the "Bashers"
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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 11:29 AM
  #44  
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Sorry to hear about what happened to your truck. That does suck. I would have been steaming for sure.
The company responsible for putting that stuff there, should also be responsible for taking care of the situation as well. Hope everything works out for you!
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Old Aug 1, 2010 | 02:03 AM
  #45  
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So I worked on the paint a little tonight. Only focused on the hood to see how it would come out. I had knee surgery on Thursday so I'm still limping around pretty bad. I took a ton of pics. I have pics before getting started, after wash, after clay and after wax. You will see that there are still a significant amount of very fine scratches and pitting but I think they can come out. I just don't know how to do it. Do you polish, buff, rubbing compound, wet sand or some other method to do this? Also in what order? This is my guess, someone point me in the right direction (in other words, what goes between clay and wax):

Step 1: Wash
Step 2: Clay
Step 3-x: ???
Final Step: Wax

Ok, here are the pics, with comments in between:

These three are pre-wash, you can see in the third pic I rubbed my finger in a small spot to show how bad it was. Pretty bad huh?




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Old Aug 1, 2010 | 02:06 AM
  #46  
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Ok, here are the pics after a wash. I'm not real smart when it comes to detailing so if I did this wrong, please let me know for future reference. I used a light bristle brush thinking that this would break up the particles with minimal scratching, then used a sponge, rinsed and blow dry with a leaf blower.





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Old Aug 1, 2010 | 02:12 AM
  #47  
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Next step was clay, I just used some cheap kit "ICE" from Autozone. I've never used clay bar before and was amazed at the trash it picked up. The lubricant running down the fenders was a rust color, very nasty. Also, I don't know about how dirty a typical bar gets take a look at these pictures. After finishing the paint was very smooth.

This is a pic of the clay after doing the first 6x6 square, WOW


...and the bar after finishing








...this is a pic of the crease in the center of the hood.....







Last edited by Blown06; Aug 1, 2010 at 02:23 AM.
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Old Aug 1, 2010 | 02:14 AM
  #48  
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all honesty , thats not coming out, if it was hot metal fragments, it burned itself into the paint, you may get the metal fragments out but as for the paint its ruined, i been there trust me you need a paint job...
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Old Aug 1, 2010 | 02:21 AM
  #49  
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Next was the final step after wiping the hood dry. I used a meguires wax that I just got off the shelf at walmart with a hand applicator pad, let dry and wiped with a microfiber. I'm amazed at how well it turned out, and you can definately notice all the prior paint chips now. You can see in the final pics, there is still a significant amount of pitting from the metal dust and some very light scratches. I just don't know the correct proceedure for getting this out. Over all I'm pleased as I didn't think it would turn out this good, but still needs a lot of work.





Crazy how black paint looks grey with flash at the right angle:








The next two pics are the pitting that still remains


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Old Aug 1, 2010 | 03:21 AM
  #50  
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Ok that doesn't look to bad IMO. My ?? is when is the last time the truck has actually seen a buff, polish+ wax?? I know how black is, to be honest a negleted black paint job can look like *** in a week...You have already pulled a ton of oxidizers out via clay bar, the paint is smooth now no???Next is to get the rest or ALOT of the finer scratches out, is to get a mild cutting compound, a wool pad.. Buff it on about 14-1600 rpms( if you not fam with it have a shop do it) That will bring alot more of the scratches out.. After you finish that wipe it down with good clean cotton. Follow that with a good finishing compound and foam pad. after that wipe clean, wax it really good. Should bring the paint back very nice.. Black is a bitch, I have had a black vehicles for a long time. So do that and see what happens. I bet you will be happy with it..
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