T-RevMotorsports

Lol I’m rarely hard on my stuff. Gotta make it last to work with my penny pinching mentality. I can totally see how that return piston spring could come off. Filled the trans up with fluid and so far it shifts amazing! Super happy with it. Headers should be here this week so I’m excited to throw those on. I wanna tune it on the stock manifolds first to see how much of a difference they will make. Same for the intake manifold. Also spent a little time buffing out a few of the small flaws in the hoe today and the paint cleaned up really nice for already being in great shape. Can’t wait to get the hd hood painted along with everything else. Should really transform the look of the truck.

T-RevMotorsports

Tuned the Tahoe today, I’ve definitely learned allot about tuning the maf in the last few months, it didn’t make much sense to me before because I’ve always tuned speed density cars for the last few years but it was actually quite simple. Tuned it on regular as that’s what I plan to run in this truck. The Tranny is shifting awesome and feels like the truck has a new trans now. Had to pull a couple of degrees of timing out after 3400 to 6k at wide open but overall its a huge improvement over the super fat target afrs on the stock tune.

arthursc2

iTrader: (5)

#200whp

T-RevMotorsports

Lol it definitely picked up a good amount of power over the stock tune. Its not fast, I’ve had plenty of fast **** but not at least it feels happy at wide open vs the stock tune file felt anemic. Headers are coming in tomorrow, probably won’t have time to put them on till next week as this weeks been super busy for me with tuning. Pretty sure I wanna do a cam in it as well as the trailblazer stall converter for now, if I decide to get serious about making some power I’ll do a th400 swap on it and single turbo setup. But for now I’m super happy with the hoe and I’m looking forward to slowly modding it and making it into what I want.

RedXray

May as well tune the ve tables too if your running dynamic airflow. Should give a snappier throttle when the tune transitions from maf to ve and back to maf etc.

T-RevMotorsports

I definitely will. Headers are going on tomorrow. I’m gonna file the header flanges first before installing them.

took a trip up to Oregon city today from Salem it was about a 50 mile drive. I got 25.0 mpg the whole drive up there besides the last part is all up hill in town dropping it to 24.1 average for the trip. The gas gauge barley moved for the whole drive up here
lol.

also I got lucky and found a silver birch metallic z71 Tahoe at the junk yard and got a full set of matching door handles for my truck. Swapped out the lock cylinder and installed them. I have a full set of abs black handles if anyone is looking for them. Also picked up a set of z71 sideskirts and the brackets for them, there was seriously like 40 rivets that held them on it was ridiculous. Planning on shaving the holes on the bottom of them that are there for the nerf bars and painting them with SEM trim black before installing them. I also got the passenger side rear mud flap or splat from the z71 but I need a drivers side now.

dantheman1540

Did you lean the tune out a ton or something to get 25mpg? Did you hand calculate to confirm that because I've never gotten close to even 20.

Handles look real good, keep looking for a black mirror cover for me

T-RevMotorsports

Its got 3.23’s in the back and I got mad hyper mile’n skills from owning my insight. No lean cruise. Haven’t filled it up to calculate it off the odo but I got 22 round trip getting stuck in some stop and go 5 o clock traffic on the way back home. I used about 3/16’s of a tank to go 102 miles round trip.

you needed a driver side mirror cap right? They had a black z71 tahur there but I can’t remember if it had mirrors still on it. I’m gonna go back and grab one more side skirt to cut up to use as filler pieces to shave mine so I’ll check when I’m dur.

jclark10

iTrader: (1)

I have been in a similar dilemma trying to figure out if I want to na, turbo, leave stock, or sell my LQ9 AWD 05 Escalade.

Do you have E85 near you? My original plan was to build a ultra-high compression 6.0 that would be purpose built to run on E85 only. I have heard thermodynamically there isn't much benefit after about 13:1. I have been trying to do some cam simulations in DynoSim too but I can't find the stock port taper angles and true stock cam seat to seat timing (although with DynoSim you can estimate it).

I get these same unmotivating feelings that why bother even trying with how heavy these things are, especially when some kid can "supposedly" go out and by a Tesla for 30k and be twice as fast as you. The GMT800s have always surprised me with how light they are, but compared to the trucks and single cabs we have a big disadvantage.

What maximum cam lift you think you would run? Let me know and I can plug it into DynoSim and let it spit out some cam timing numbers. Also let me know what rpm range you are shooting for, like 2000-6000 rpms, I can optimize it for area under the curve instead of just peaks.

T-RevMotorsports

I can tell you from my experience tuning a few little things. Totally different engine/ platform but same concept; Honda crv’s, 2.0l 4 cylinder engine, they are about 2900-3300lb suvs, I’ve tuned them with two main engine combinations, one is a high compression 2.0l with a dohc vtec head, generally speaking due to the weight of the vehicle they overall just feel like turds with a higher comp b20v in them. They can make around 200-220whp and about 140ftlbs, for naturally aspirated engines to make more power there’s two general ways to make that happen, either increase torque output overall or carry torque further in the rpm range. to increase torque output overall the best methods are larger engine, more efficient parts that work well together and sometimes compression ratio which the Escalade has a pretty good start at. For carrying torque further in the rev range you have camshaft/heads/portwork are the big main three, although with only one cam profile as well as a single intake runner manifold when you change these to optimize carrying torque further out in the rev range you almost always sacrifice power down low.

The other option would be turboing the stock engine, it ends up being a lower revving but very torque happy setup, generally you can make around 300whp reliably and somewhere between 260-280 torque at the tire. For a heavy pig of a vehicle I think that forced induction is definitely optimal for overall performance as well as fuel economy if the cam is kept stock or mild. I’m just doing kind of a basic bitch build on my tahoe because for one, I’m pretty happy with it as is. It runs great, is comfy and fuel economy is pretty ridiculous for what it is as a vehicle. And for two I have my c6 if I need more speed. I also get to live vicariously through my customers cars on a regular basis which some of them are as gnarly as 3-5lbs per hp.

the other problem with the Escalade is the big limiting factor is gonna be that 4l65e handling the power you can make with forced induction along with the weight of the vehicle. I wanted to do a budget single turbo setup on my 04 escalade but never did for lack of 4l80 transmissions in my hands. My tahoe has pretty tall gears so if I ever did wanna go the turbo route I would just throw a turbo 400 in it and a decent stall converter and just live with 2400 rpms at 65 on the freeway.