Steve-o-08's Silverado Build Thread, Take Three.
08-15-2017, 11:28 AM
#281
That looks very clean! Details on shifter? What is the transmission out of? My t56 has the shifter in the rear location. I had to modify the shift rail to get it up to the middle inspection cover above the shift gate. Since the shift gate is right below the throw is very noticeably different left to right than front to back. The geometry is off.
08-16-2017, 11:05 AM
#282
Congrats on the trans conversion. That should make a noticeable difference on throttle modulation around the course.
I would like to digress on your expedition though...
Originally when you first started with the stock front/Hotchkis rear bars, you stated it had a lot of understeer, then mentioned the the rear was disconnected because it was coming around too easy, which would suggest oversteer. If you could give a brief over view of how the swaybar changes from then to now affected the balance of the truck, I would appreciate it.
I would like to digress on your expedition though...
Originally when you first started with the stock front/Hotchkis rear bars, you stated it had a lot of understeer, then mentioned the the rear was disconnected because it was coming around too easy, which would suggest oversteer. If you could give a brief over view of how the swaybar changes from then to now affected the balance of the truck, I would appreciate it.
08-21-2017, 01:47 PM
#284
Congrats on the trans conversion. That should make a noticeable difference on throttle modulation around the course.
I would like to digress on your expedition though...
Originally when you first started with the stock front/Hotchkis rear bars, you stated it had a lot of understeer, then mentioned the the rear was disconnected because it was coming around too easy, which would suggest oversteer. If you could give a brief over view of how the swaybar changes from then to now affected the balance of the truck, I would appreciate it.
I would like to digress on your expedition though...
Originally when you first started with the stock front/Hotchkis rear bars, you stated it had a lot of understeer, then mentioned the the rear was disconnected because it was coming around too easy, which would suggest oversteer. If you could give a brief over view of how the swaybar changes from then to now affected the balance of the truck, I would appreciate it.
Both Fortunately and unfortunately the courses we run are always different so a setup that works one day may not work as well the next.
Cruised the truck around yesterday. Got a quick driving clip. I'm going to have to play with the throttle mapping still. I just wanted to get in it and drive it so I didn't change anything tune related yet.
08-22-2017, 01:17 PM
#286
So making a change to one end will affect how the other reacts. If i'm experiencing understeer I will firm up the rear to take away some of the rear traction and allow the front to bite more. That goes the same for the front. There are tons of different factors that play into it. As for the front bar, It didn't change understeer very much. The cause of the understeer was too soft of a spring in the front. The truck would fall over on it's self when braking and coming into a corner and it was all the tires could do to keep the truck going in the right direction. This setup is constantly changing as is my driving style. So it's constantly a moving target.
08-22-2017, 03:40 PM
#287
I am fighting the front end dip/roll too causing a positive camber change and understeer in the turns. I have been reading philosophies on using a softer spring with a stiffer bar to effectively control roll the same as adding front spring rate without the comfort and compliance trade-off. I ordered the stiffest front bar I could find, which is an Addco 1.5" solid, so we'll see how that helps with the 900# springs over the stock 36mm bar.
Are your current 1200# springs only 8" length? I'm having a hard time finding a 10" spring higher than 900#.
Are your current 1200# springs only 8" length? I'm having a hard time finding a 10" spring higher than 900#.
08-22-2017, 04:21 PM
#288
I am fighting the front end dip/roll too causing a positive camber change and understeer in the turns. I have been reading philosophies on using a softer spring with a stiffer bar to effectively control roll the same as adding front spring rate without the comfort and compliance trade-off. I ordered the stiffest front bar I could find, which is an Addco 1.5" solid, so we'll see how that helps with the 900# springs over the stock 36mm bar.
Are your current 1200# springs only 8" length? I'm having a hard time finding a 10" spring higher than 900#.
Are your current 1200# springs only 8" length? I'm having a hard time finding a 10" spring higher than 900#.
Honestly I had tried that route. I ran the Belltech front bar and the Hotchkis Front bar on stock springs and 900's and they weren't enough. The 1200lb springs are not too stiff to be comfortable I would actually like to go higher if I can. They are 8" front springs from Eibach. Both Eibach and Pac sell 1200lb 8" long, 2.5" ID Springs I might have to step down to an 6" main for and a 2" helper if I go up in rate.
Last edited by Steve-O-08; 08-22-2017 at 05:14 PM.