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The deatschwerks fuel system is installed with a boost referenced pressure regulator and all new AN lines. Overall a fairly simple install. However, the fuel gauge doesn't work now. It is supposed to retain that functionality, so I have an email in to their tech department to figure out what the issue is. Even with that issue the truck runs. So its a minor thing overall, but one that I will figure out.
solved the fuel gauge issue. The float was contacting the side of the tank. Had to trim the alignment tab to rotate the pump a few degrees, and problem solved.
and photos as requested.
Last edited by Modern Barbarian; 05-11-2022 at 04:31 AM.
I also did some more looking and found something cool. There was a fuel pressure switch in the old fuel lines. It is 1/8npt threaded just like the pressure gage port on the regulator. So with a simple t and some extended wiring, the factory fuel pressure sensor will be back in. This will allow my stereo that has obd hookup to display my fuel pressure in the cab. Plus it gets rid of a code on the truck. One step closer to doing it right. I'll post pictures when I get it installed and prove it works.
The T came in yesterday and I got it installed with the gauge and the factory fuel pressure sensor. Hooking this up cleared all the fuel system obd2 codes that I got except for the one for the evap system since I removed it. I didn't remove it for any reason other than ease of hooking up the new system. This also gave me fuel pressure readout on my obd2 gauges that my aftermarket stereo displays. I did have to lengthen the fuel pressure sensor harness about 6 feet, and route it along the main harness to get under the hood.
I know everyone will want photos, I will take some to post after work today to show you how this worked.
Sorry I haven't uploaded the pics yet, keep forgetting to send them to my computer. But I have some updates. I put in the hotwire kit and learned a valuable lesson. The hot and ground wiring in the factory harness are exactly backwards of what you think they would be. The pink wire is the ground and the grey wire is the hot. If you hook this up backwards it will fry the fuel pump control module. Ask me how I know . So I bypassed it. However, this kills my fuel pressure reading via the PCM and output into my stereo, so hooking up the sensor was a waste unless I decide to get a new one. Gonna check pricing vs the price of a gauge and decide what I want to do. To bypass it I used one of the switches on my
that I use to run my light bar. This requires the key to be on and the switch to be activated to send power. This is the signal for the new fuel pump relay. The switches are hidden inside the flip down ashtray. So I can kill the fuel pump when I leave and unless you know what switch to press, the truck won't start even with the keys. Anti-theft, yeah, that's why I did it. Totally not to cover up my F*** up.
Bed is back on and the truck is back on the road. First of three boxes for the supercharger kit will get here tomorrow. Had to call boost district to find out what the hold up was. He was out of stock on the ZL1 lid for the LSA supercharger, and was gonna have to order them from a dealer. $400 dollar markup to get it, but at least the kit is on its way now.
05-10-2022, 09:23 AM
. So I bypassed it. However, this kills my fuel pressure reading via the PCM and output into my stereo, so hooking up the sensor was a waste unless I decide to get a new one. Gonna check pricing vs the price of a gauge and decide what I want to do. To bypass it I used one of the switches on my
that I use to run my light bar. This requires the key to be on and the switch to be activated to send power. This is the signal for the new fuel pump relay. The switches are hidden inside the flip down ashtray. So I can kill the fuel pump when I leave and unless you know what switch to press, the truck won't start even with the keys. Anti-theft, yeah, that's why I did it. Totally not to cover up my F*** up.
