Oakley's History Lesson and Build Thread
#871
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (4)
Here is a 65-120mph pull on 20psi. Not sure why I always have issues with the audio when converting clips with the go pro app but oh well.
65-120mph Pull
65-120mph Pull
#873
I'm having an issue right now with knock retard on downshifts and upshifts. So when I'm around 70mph, I drop it down into third gear with the shifter before going WOT. When I put the pedal to the floor and it downshifts into second gear, I get 3+ degrees of KR. With the decay rate I have in the tune right now, I get my timing back to where it should be right before it shifts into third. Then during the shift, I get 2* or so of KR again.
Obviously this isn't something I want to be worrying about when I'm at 20+psi of boost. I think its false but who knows. There isn't an audible knock. I'm sure if there was, I'd be blowing **** up by now Any ideas?
Obviously this isn't something I want to be worrying about when I'm at 20+psi of boost. I think its false but who knows. There isn't an audible knock. I'm sure if there was, I'd be blowing **** up by now Any ideas?
#877
The trans doesn't shift very hard. I'm actually thinking I'm going to have to open the trans up and build it since the more boost I run, the lazier the shift get.
I'm running BR7EF's at 0.022 or 0.024 I think. Can't remember exactly but I remember them being tight. It doesn't break up at all during the pull so I know they are tight enough.
As far as spark, It cruises at mid 30's and then has to drop all the way to 15* once I'm WOT. So It is a pretty big jump but by the time it spools, the timing is safe.
I'm running BR7EF's at 0.022 or 0.024 I think. Can't remember exactly but I remember them being tight. It doesn't break up at all during the pull so I know they are tight enough.
As far as spark, It cruises at mid 30's and then has to drop all the way to 15* once I'm WOT. So It is a pretty big jump but by the time it spools, the timing is safe.
#878
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (27)
If you're sure it's false, I would just desensitize the knock sensors, mine are. The factory settings are just too sensitive for all the extra noise that's added with the turbo and valvetrain mods. Also, are any of your pipes hitting the frame? That could be a cause as well with the torque during a downshift. If so, may want to look into solid motor mounts.
#879
Resident Retard
iTrader: (31)
The trans doesn't shift very hard. I'm actually thinking I'm going to have to open the trans up and build it since the more boost I run, the lazier the shift get.
I'm running BR7EF's at 0.022 or 0.024 I think. Can't remember exactly but I remember them being tight. It doesn't break up at all during the pull so I know they are tight enough.
As far as spark, It cruises at mid 30's and then has to drop all the way to 15* once I'm WOT. So It is a pretty big jump but by the time it spools, the timing is safe.
I'm running BR7EF's at 0.022 or 0.024 I think. Can't remember exactly but I remember them being tight. It doesn't break up at all during the pull so I know they are tight enough.
As far as spark, It cruises at mid 30's and then has to drop all the way to 15* once I'm WOT. So It is a pretty big jump but by the time it spools, the timing is safe.
I have tried all the different types of plugs, what i noticed about iridiums is that you can increase the gap and get more aggressive with the timing changes without any KR.
I know everyone thinks iridium plugs are bad and they will cause your motor to blow, but how many of those people have actually tried them...