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lsx 427+ large turbo

Old Aug 5, 2010 | 01:00 PM
  #51  
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cobra-head they package like an elbow setup and dont sacrifice flow. turboberserker used them on his build.
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 01:15 PM
  #52  
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Sick build bro I hope to see numbers soon
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 02:08 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by jasond26
I honestly am not sure why 2 piece, I believe it is for porting purposes. The split section is oringed so I am pretty confident that it will not leak. I honestly don't know of anyone that is throwing boost at this intake but I am sure Cary has more info on that. Honestly I think my heads and intake are overkill but I was going to do a NA setup originally. I ended up feeling like I would not be satisfied unless I had some sort of forced induction being that I had a Prochger previously.

I ran the Vic jr previously and it is a great intake but if you are anything like me you always want something better. Regarding this intake...there is nothing better.
so u think that intake and heads set up is to much or perfect im guessing its awesome simply bcuz all the air flow ur going to get and how much does that intake run cuz i think its awesome since its completely ported!
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 04:50 PM
  #54  
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Can you ever have too much? I should be able to make big power with less boost running this setup, I think that will help with reliablity issues as well. I wont have to push the engine to the ragid edge to get the numbers I am after.
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 10:02 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by jasond26
Can you ever have too much? I should be able to make big power with less boost running this setup, I think that will help with reliablity issues as well. I wont have to push the engine to the ragid edge to get the numbers I am after.
o ok i understood wrong on ur last post and well sweet good luck on it sir
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 10:15 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by jasond26
exactly right about what people consider "street friendly". One major killer for an aluminum rod is not giving sufficient warm up time. The engine has to be at operating temprature before driving, but honestly with the size cams that people are running these days you have to warm it up anyway for the valvesprings to live.

As far as weight goes, these weight in at around 500 grams. A standard steel rod weights in around 600 grams. Needless to say this engine should rev pretty quickly..

Thanks for the cudos guys. I talked to Cary yesterday and I should be getting my intake today as well as my heads. I will get pics up of them as soon as I get them.
you got it right on the rods. BME is one of the few if not the only who use a stronger alloy aluminum that is also forged for the grain alignment. the run of the mill and older alum rods are 7075 which in itself is no joke. they claim you can street drive it but gotta be warm like said. ive heard horror stories of alum rods but seems the times have changed and they are much better now then the old ones. if you didnt already buy them there was someone on yellowbullet selling a set
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Old Aug 11, 2010 | 04:40 AM
  #57  
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Typical rods on Pro stock motors last around 70 to 80 passes before they need to be replaced. When used on the street I would guess the metal fatigue would start to show around 10,000 miles (depending on your driving style) before you'd be wise to replace them.
Chase, the cast manifolds work well because the turbo is the most restrictive component in the exhaust so the flow characteristics aren't as important. The Tubular gains are with pulse timing, velocity retention and the lack of sharp angles and corners that redirect flow. I think in his application it will work fine.
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Old Aug 11, 2010 | 06:39 AM
  #58  
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Awesome build, man. Big turbos are just nasty
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Old Aug 14, 2010 | 04:40 AM
  #59  
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Got my pistons in and test fit the rods, looks pretty heavy duty.


I am gonna try to get the last few parts ordered so I can get the engine together.
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Old Aug 14, 2010 | 04:04 PM
  #60  
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