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I'm thinking I may add one just off a switch that I can operate in the cab when I decide to drive around on the street
That would be easy to do and probably a good idea.
I'd think to get the most out of a fan, I'd concentrate on it being shrouded or at least completely covered on the fan side. They make fans in all shapes and sizes, putting two on it would be easy and I don't think would require a huge amp load.
...or if you see that it works pretty good without the fan and just need a little help when beating on it on the street, you could do one fan completely shrouded over half the cooler and leave the other half open. There is some research out there on the subject, but if I remember right, you'd want the fan on the inlet half. I could be wrong though.
I'd for sure put them on a switched relay with a 10-12 gauge wire. I have an inductive multi-meter that can measure amp load on automotive stuff at automotive voltages (12-18). If you have access to something like that it would help you size the circuit properly. I can even see the amp spike at turn on which can easily be 2-3 times as high as amp draw once running.
I'm thinking one 10" fan on the inlet side will be enough.
On another note my rear end is ready to be picked up and ill be putting it back in Thursday and slapping the bed back on the truck and moving forward with the motor and trans install!
Is there really a benefit to running an aftermarket rear end cover? Doesn't really make sense to me how it would beef anything up
I'm thinking one 10" fan on the inlet side will be enough.
On another note my rear end is ready to be picked up and ill be putting it back in Thursday and slapping the bed back on the truck and moving forward with the motor and trans install!
Is there really a benefit to running an aftermarket rear end cover? Doesn't really make sense to me how it would beef anything up
I like the 10" fan on the inlet side plan.
Regarding the rear cover, I've never run one but don't they have some internal structure that gets physically bolted to the caps? For some reason I wanna say that you replace the cap bolts with studs that come through the cover. Then you bolt the cover on and use nuts on the outside of the cover.
Think of it as a main girdle for an engine.
My engine builder says the funniest things sometimes. His exact quote when asked about main girdles:
"They help hold all the mains together after they break"
The rear diff girdles limit the amount of flex the bearing caps have.... The studs go through the cover and seat against the cap, and have another nut that cinches them down on the outside of the cover...
Biggest benefit is the extra fluid capacity, depending on the cover they add between .5 and 1qt..
A Main Engine Girdle is complete different in function from a Rear End Girdle.
A Rear End Girdle supports the caps and keeps them from backing off if the load stretches the bolts.
An engine girdle ties them caps together and keeps them from walking back and forth. On an LS engine this isn't as big of an issue since we have side bolts, but your traditional BBC and SBC can have these Issues especially with stroker cranks or in High RPM applications.
Just picked up the rear end and asked the guys about them they said don't bother with the rear end cover. I'm just going to put the money towards some moser axles
Just picked up the rear end and asked the guys about them they said don't bother with the rear end cover. I'm just going to put the money towards some moser axles
LOL I've tossed this idea around for awhile and I'm just ready to get this thing running so it is what it is for now....maybe I'll get lucky with this 10 bolt
08-01-2016, 02:37 AM
