When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Yea I just went back and reread that thread. Upgrading the HEX will help overall I think, but I would bet he is still going to have massive temperature rise during a run. Pat's case is an exception or he goofed it up somehow
Explain how mine was goofed up please. I beg to differ as this isn't a new concept. Nor am I the first to experience this
Explain how mine was goofed up please. I beg to differ as this isn't a new concept. Nor am I the first to experience this
Because you are the exception to pretty much every blower setup I have seen
I'm just busting your *****, I am glad your setup is working well.
Some food for thought, I just redid my heat exchanger to a dual pass with larger lines and larger water tank. My heat exchanger is basically cool to the touch but yet my IATs were in the 120s on a 75 degree day cruising around. Water tank was very warm as well, which seems to be soaking up a lot of engine bay heat.
Mines always had 3/4 lines. I can say this, I've had a twin screw and they run significantly hotter out of boost then a roots. What you mentioned is one of the big reasons I believe running the water tank pre HX helps for normal driving. When mine was routed so the tank was pre intercooler my temps were consistently higher. Granted for the track this is nice for adding ice.
With my testing, the reservoir (mines aluminum) is warm from engine bay convection but it does not really translate to the water as HEX-out and Res-out temps are withing a degree or so. The exception is on a hot start where the coolant is heat soaked from sitting and will be a few degrees warmer until the coolant has some time to flow thru then its back to HEX-out temp.
If it weren't for using ice at the track, I agree that HEX to IC is a better route for street use.
I should have some progress this weekend. New heat exchanger is here along with a tru-cool 40K and all fittings to replace the current smaller units. Since the HE will take up the full frontal area behind the grill the trans cooler is going between it and the radiator. I figured a little larger surface area would help since it won't be getting full ambient airflow. I do plan to put it behind the 'cold' half of the HE.
I was able to get the Tru-Cool Max fully installed and get the heat exchanger fitted over the weekend. The bumper cover, bumper mounts and grill had to be clearanced due to the end tanks being much thicker than anticipated for a 2.5" core. I waned to do a like for like comparison with just the heat exchanger changed but due to the lower fitting not lining up like I had planned, some hoses needed to be rerouted so I decided to clean up all of the hose routing. I placed an order for a few more fittings to get everything buttoned up this weekend.
Tru-Cool Max 40K located behind the heat exchanger with new -6 lines...
New, much larger heat exchanger in it's final location. Upper mounts are made up. Need to remove the bumper to get the lower mounts made up on the radiator support.
Lower fitting didn't line up like I wanted so I'll need to route the hose under the radiator support while clearanceing a little plastic on the headlight mount. You can also see where the bumper cover had to be clearanced for the end tank.
I agree...out of curiosity, how much does a custom HEX run? I would like to do something similar for my Camaro and Silverado after seeing yours and corey's small HEX results.