I broke'did my toy... Kenne Bell/370 rebuild
10-21-2016, 11:23 AM
#151
Did you forget the link?
My headers are bare stainless. It gets hot in my engine bay. I have already had to replace some cheap parts store flex loom that melted. I don't have quantitative numbers but pulling the weather strip off the cowl seems to help some as I can see the heat escaping there.
My headers are bare stainless. It gets hot in my engine bay. I have already had to replace some cheap parts store flex loom that melted. I don't have quantitative numbers but pulling the weather strip off the cowl seems to help some as I can see the heat escaping there.
10-22-2016, 01:42 AM
#155
ahhh hell. hopefully I can find the link...BRB.
booya!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1bXPNy1Yn4
very interesting results between coated vs non coated to the tune of about 500* hotter non coated. skip to 4:40 for the meat and potatoes of what caught my attention.
booya!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1bXPNy1Yn4
very interesting results between coated vs non coated to the tune of about 500* hotter non coated. skip to 4:40 for the meat and potatoes of what caught my attention.
Through testing we have all learned that anything other than a nice big bell (like the morris on I have now) off the inlet of a procharger robs power. Even if it is a straight piece of 5" pipe with a slight bend to clear the hood and a filter the size of an 18-wheeler big rig, it's not gonna do anything but rob power.
That said, there is absolutely nothing I can do that would address the configuration of the blower inlet. That is fixed and is not changing.
So that would lead me to believe that in my particular scenario, the only thing that I can do is address the header design, material and coating/wrapping.
I'm in the process of building a new set of headers for the truck that are BIG. Like 2.250" BIG! So, in addition to fighting the header size making the location even closer to the inlet of the blower, my design is also no longer a swept down design that goes under the truck, but rather a slightly swept up design to get them over the frame rail to exit out the side of the fender.
Not that this post is adding anything other than my own "think tank", I think I will now be having my headers coated in and out and also wrapped. This is my first header build so they are being built out of mild steel and until now the thought never crossed my mind to even have them coated. I didn't want to spend a monumental amount of money on my first header build because well, this is my first header build. So much for that idea.
There may be a flat piece of double coated shield added too. Remember, I've done away with all the intercooler bull **** and will be plumbing this F2 straight into the throttle body. Already assuming I will be dealing with 300*-350* IATS (maybe even more) I think I would be stupid to not use this information.
Sorry for the long post. Just putting my thoughts into words.
***Note*** for all of those who have maybe already read this post. I originally said that the set of headers I'm building were gonna be a 2.125" to 2.250" stepped header.....I lied. That was thought at one time, but I actually ended up with 2.250" flanges. So my new headers will be a straight 2.250" primary. Probably the biggest header you will find on a 99+ ls powered full size truck.
Last edited by Blown06; 10-22-2016 at 04:11 AM.
10-22-2016, 09:05 AM
#156
i love watching tests from those guys on youtube. there are a few channels i'm subscribed to that all use that same dyno and format of testing. i've seen zero reason to think they would fudge data.
after seeing it, i also plan to have my new stainless headers coated inside/out. already researched shops in houston. there are 2 that everyone recommends and it seems to cost anywhere between 250 and 300. gotta get my flanges back from the machine shop to see if i figured out how to make my horrible fitting arh headers to fit.
I think it's more important on a street machine that sees stop/go traffic and parking lot idling than strip only race truck, but removing 500* from next to your filter has zero draw backs on either application. keeping your exhaust temps up inside of the pipe also helps exhaust flow...not that you will have issues with that on a 2.25 primary.
after seeing it, i also plan to have my new stainless headers coated inside/out. already researched shops in houston. there are 2 that everyone recommends and it seems to cost anywhere between 250 and 300. gotta get my flanges back from the machine shop to see if i figured out how to make my horrible fitting arh headers to fit.
I think it's more important on a street machine that sees stop/go traffic and parking lot idling than strip only race truck, but removing 500* from next to your filter has zero draw backs on either application. keeping your exhaust temps up inside of the pipe also helps exhaust flow...not that you will have issues with that on a 2.25 primary.
10-22-2016, 02:11 PM
#159
$138 for a quart isn't bad. I'd imagine you could get both headers coated with that much. If not then 2 quarts should do it. If 2 quarts are needed then basically the same cost as having them ceramic coated. The cerakote is much more resilient than any ceramic header coating I've seen.