2WD RCSB Project: Betty White
08-22-2019, 07:38 AM
#11
I wouldnt worry about the mileage. get your cluster reprogrammed and call it 109k, these truck are to the age that no one really cares, and its already rolled over 100k and was a work truck most of its life anyway. Wouldnt lose sleep or sweat over that
For the heads, unless you absolutely want to boost it, I would just get a valve job done on them and run em. There has been a shift in thinking recently that porting reduces port velocity and low end suffers as a result
For the heads, unless you absolutely want to boost it, I would just get a valve job done on them and run em. There has been a shift in thinking recently that porting reduces port velocity and low end suffers as a result
08-22-2019, 08:10 AM
#12
TECH Fanatic
I know in Texas after I think a 100k or a 150k miles or 10yrs the title just lists the mileage as exempt. Don't quote me on those as it's been a few years since I've looked at the law. I know the title on my Blazer says exempt.
08-22-2019, 10:45 PM
#14
Teching In
Thread Starter
I was afraid of that. I'll see how it does as is and if I don't like it I might try to fab up some kind of cooling duct to direct air over the cooler. Worst case I'll just mount it up front.
08-12-2020, 09:47 PM
#15
Teching In
Thread Starter
[img]https://i.imgur.com/AYNovGe.jpg[/img]
It seems like I only make yearly updates on this project. I've been working in DFW and haven't had much time to spend at home and get this thing finished. I do have some updates though.
It runs!
https://imgur.com/I0j1LLi
Put the bed back on, so now it looks like a truck.
Started cleaning up the wiring. This was a giant mess. I had to wire in the connectors for the NNBS injectors, wire in the upstream O2's since they were cut, I installed the wideband and ran it through the trans cable grommet in the floorboard and over to the console. Also found out that the V6 thottle cable is too long and wont work with this setup. I replaced it with the V8 cable and have had no issues. I'm using a $35 holley TB cable bracket to make this work.
Pulled out the jumpseat to install a center console I found on craigslist for $50
I'm currently in the process of tuning this thing. I'm doing it myself, with only a basic knowledge of HPTuners. The biggest issues I've had are related to the injector data. I'm using the 36lb NNBS flexfuel injectors which are rated at 36lb @43psi. I originally just copied the injector data I found online that was transcribed into P01 format. Well that seemed to cause issues. I remembered that I'm using a vette filter/regulator and my fuel pressure is constantly at 58psi. I tried to find a chart to see how much these things flow at that pressure but can't seem to find accurate data. Some say 42lb some say 50lb. I currently have them as 42lb in the tune. That helped a lot but I'm still having a sluggish rev and it seems to run a little on the lean side. (it was idling at 16.5:1 with them as 36lb) now it seems to idle at 14.5-15, which is what I wanted. I'm not real confident in my ability to tune the VE table. I used a very similar tune as a starting point and made small adjustments to airflow, throttle cracker, and decay but I feel like I'm getting too far ahead of myself without being 100% sure I have the correct injector data.
It runs!
https://imgur.com/I0j1LLi
Put the bed back on, so now it looks like a truck.
Started cleaning up the wiring. This was a giant mess. I had to wire in the connectors for the NNBS injectors, wire in the upstream O2's since they were cut, I installed the wideband and ran it through the trans cable grommet in the floorboard and over to the console. Also found out that the V6 thottle cable is too long and wont work with this setup. I replaced it with the V8 cable and have had no issues. I'm using a $35 holley TB cable bracket to make this work.
Pulled out the jumpseat to install a center console I found on craigslist for $50
I'm currently in the process of tuning this thing. I'm doing it myself, with only a basic knowledge of HPTuners. The biggest issues I've had are related to the injector data. I'm using the 36lb NNBS flexfuel injectors which are rated at 36lb @43psi. I originally just copied the injector data I found online that was transcribed into P01 format. Well that seemed to cause issues. I remembered that I'm using a vette filter/regulator and my fuel pressure is constantly at 58psi. I tried to find a chart to see how much these things flow at that pressure but can't seem to find accurate data. Some say 42lb some say 50lb. I currently have them as 42lb in the tune. That helped a lot but I'm still having a sluggish rev and it seems to run a little on the lean side. (it was idling at 16.5:1 with them as 36lb) now it seems to idle at 14.5-15, which is what I wanted. I'm not real confident in my ability to tune the VE table. I used a very similar tune as a starting point and made small adjustments to airflow, throttle cracker, and decay but I feel like I'm getting too far ahead of myself without being 100% sure I have the correct injector data.
08-12-2020, 11:14 PM
#16
There is a LS3 to LS1 spreadsheet you need to use to get all the data correct.
The NNBS injectors are always rated at 58psi in my experience. So find a tune that matches your injector part number and use that data in the spreadsheet. The flex fuel injectors in my 2012 Silverado were 38lb/hr at 58psi. The next size up from there were either 50 or 52lb/hr depending on if they came from a 6.0 or 6.2 flex fuel truck.
You will need the flow rate, min injector pulse, short pulse adder and offset vs volts data.
The NNBS injectors are always rated at 58psi in my experience. So find a tune that matches your injector part number and use that data in the spreadsheet. The flex fuel injectors in my 2012 Silverado were 38lb/hr at 58psi. The next size up from there were either 50 or 52lb/hr depending on if they came from a 6.0 or 6.2 flex fuel truck.
You will need the flow rate, min injector pulse, short pulse adder and offset vs volts data.
08-16-2020, 10:00 PM
#17
Teching In
Thread Starter
There is a LS3 to LS1 spreadsheet you need to use to get all the data correct.
The NNBS injectors are always rated at 58psi in my experience. So find a tune that matches your injector part number and use that data in the spreadsheet. The flex fuel injectors in my 2012 Silverado were 38lb/hr at 58psi. The next size up from there were either 50 or 52lb/hr depending on if they came from a 6.0 or 6.2 flex fuel truck.
You will need the flow rate, min injector pulse, short pulse adder and offset vs volts data.
The NNBS injectors are always rated at 58psi in my experience. So find a tune that matches your injector part number and use that data in the spreadsheet. The flex fuel injectors in my 2012 Silverado were 38lb/hr at 58psi. The next size up from there were either 50 or 52lb/hr depending on if they came from a 6.0 or 6.2 flex fuel truck.
You will need the flow rate, min injector pulse, short pulse adder and offset vs volts data.
I'm not home to flash it into the truck but I did look over the spreadsheet and played with the data. The tune I'm using for the injector data is a 2013 5.3 silverado. I put this data into the spreadsheet and from what I can tell the "Flow Rate vs Pressure" ends up being 43.57lbs @ 55psi in LS1 format. In the LS3/E38 format I'm seeing 38lbs @ 408KPA which is making me question the data. Maybe I've overthinking the whole thing.
08-16-2020, 10:32 PM
#18
That spreadsheet isn't an exact match for many computers. The KPA values do not line up all the way. The later computer have different KPA values in the injector flow rate.
You will have to manually enter the data that best lines up with the data in that 2013 tune file. Once you do that it will be far more accurate as far as flow rate goes.
The LS1 data should start at 38 for the "0" and end at 41 for "80". You could really just stick 38 and 41 and click interpolate to get you the data without plugging everything in on the spreadsheet for that.
The rest of the stuff should be easy enough to copy into that spreadsheet.
You will have to manually enter the data that best lines up with the data in that 2013 tune file. Once you do that it will be far more accurate as far as flow rate goes.
The LS1 data should start at 38 for the "0" and end at 41 for "80". You could really just stick 38 and 41 and click interpolate to get you the data without plugging everything in on the spreadsheet for that.
The rest of the stuff should be easy enough to copy into that spreadsheet.
11-16-2020, 10:55 AM
#19
Teching In
Thread Starter
I've had some extra time on my hands lately and I brought the truck to my house to finish up. I ran into an issue where the truck wouldn't idle below 1200 and the IAC counts would drop to zero. I chased down every thing I could think of and nothing I did made any difference. I narrowed the problem down to the throttle body/IAC. I tested the IAC and it tested/ohm'ed out fine but I couldn't rule it out.
I ended up replacing the G-Plus throttlebody and buying a FiTech 92mm that came with tps and iac for $160. It immediately made a huge difference. From what I can figure either the IAC passage was drilled slightly crooked causing the IAC stepper motor to bind open or the IAC itself was bad.
Next on the list is to get the exhaust welded on and I can finish tuning. I still have the 2/4 drop kit to install along with the caltracs. After I get some miles on the new engine/trans I'll throw on the nitrous and see how far I can push this thing.
I ended up replacing the G-Plus throttlebody and buying a FiTech 92mm that came with tps and iac for $160. It immediately made a huge difference. From what I can figure either the IAC passage was drilled slightly crooked causing the IAC stepper motor to bind open or the IAC itself was bad.
Next on the list is to get the exhaust welded on and I can finish tuning. I still have the 2/4 drop kit to install along with the caltracs. After I get some miles on the new engine/trans I'll throw on the nitrous and see how far I can push this thing.
11-16-2020, 11:59 AM
#20
Interesting, We bought a Fitech and they are not much better... The TPS Signal would cut out and the IAC had issues too. Replaced both with Stock ones from the original TB that only had 220K miles on it... problem solved there. 
But at rest we had an issue with the blade hanging. It would either not close all the way when you released the Throttle blade or stick a little when you first opened the Throttle blade. I sanded the opening by hand with some fine sandpaper until there was enough clearance and it no longer bound up.
But at rest we had an issue with the blade hanging. It would either not close all the way when you released the Throttle blade or stick a little when you first opened the Throttle blade. I sanded the opening by hand with some fine sandpaper until there was enough clearance and it no longer bound up.
Last edited by 1FastBrick; 11-16-2020 at 12:09 PM.