2005 NBS Silverado build
#12
3" is probably ok, but I would go for 3.5" if you can.
A lot of guys use an elbow off the drain flange (not recommend), but I used a 4-5" 1/2" NPT pipe to go below the flange on mine.
Why were you making your own flange? You know those are dirt cheap off the shelf right? Good work!
A lot of guys use an elbow off the drain flange (not recommend), but I used a 4-5" 1/2" NPT pipe to go below the flange on mine.
Why were you making your own flange? You know those are dirt cheap off the shelf right? Good work!
I was thinking of upgrading the down pipe, but I won't be running much boost . I cut my own flange becausei wanted to try out my new tools. 😄😄😄
#13
Cheers
Chris
#14
8 Second Truck Club
iTrader: (32)
Being this is done with the tig process, just cause you have the machine turned up to 135 doesn't mean you just bury the pedal and don't lift till you are done.
I've welded .065" wall 6061 with my machine turned up that high and never once blew through the work piece.
Also, when you weld.......the base metal is supposed to melt. If the base metal is not melting and you are just jamming filler rod in there till it melts, you are not welding. That is more similar to brazing. When tig welding, you don't dab filler rod until you have a puddle (made from melted base material).
Keep at it and read and watch others as much as you can. Welding is a learned skill. It doesn't come over night. Keep it up and you'll get there. Just trying to give you some pointers.
I've welded .065" wall 6061 with my machine turned up that high and never once blew through the work piece.
Also, when you weld.......the base metal is supposed to melt. If the base metal is not melting and you are just jamming filler rod in there till it melts, you are not welding. That is more similar to brazing. When tig welding, you don't dab filler rod until you have a puddle (made from melted base material).
Keep at it and read and watch others as much as you can. Welding is a learned skill. It doesn't come over night. Keep it up and you'll get there. Just trying to give you some pointers.
#15
I appreciate the advice, but I have a heavy foot and it's easier for me to set the machine to a lower amperage and go full pedal and then back off as needed. I will try what you recommended though and see how it works for me. Are you a welder by trade or a hobbyist like me?
#17
8 Second Truck Club
iTrader: (32)
I appreciate the advice, but I have a heavy foot and it's easier for me to set the machine to a lower amperage and go full pedal and then back off as needed. I will try what you recommended though and see how it works for me. Are you a welder by trade or a hobbyist like me?
I was just like you when I started, convinced that I had a heavy foot and could not move fast enough to avoid problems.......so I also tried to compensate by dialing a lower amperage. In the beginning it works (especially on 4130, mild steel or stainless). I was able to lay down some beads on aluminum with the machine turned down, but once I got comfortable I started practicing 6061 with amperage set at 135 (for anything 0.060" to 0.090" thick) and the welds completely changed (in a good way).
I remember one day thinking to myself, what is different about how I'm doing it compared to some of the guys like Marcella and the dude that welds for 6061.com. I had my machine dialed to everything they would publish, tungsten prep'd like they said, same filler and on and on........only I couldn't bring myself to turn the amperage up to what they said.
Not that I will ever come close to welding like those guys, it did convince me that my first problem was not having the machine hot enough. Just remember, aluminum is like a big heat sink compared to steels. Heat dissipates at a much faster rate. Next, aluminum prep is probably the most important thing. The reason is that the oxide layer that forms on the surface of aluminum has an insanely high melting point compared to the raw aluminum beneath it. This can cause problems in that the machine is set high enough to melt the aluminum, but not the oxide layer. The result is a puddle that looks ready to go, however what you are seeing is a puddle with a very light "skin" over it. Then as you try to dab rod, it refuses to flow nicely and it just causes problems and dirty **** looking welds. Depending on how fresh the aluminum is or how well you have it prepped, the key here is enough heat and then getting your balance set to get the right amount of cleaning action (lifting and pushing trash and any remaining oxides away) vs. the amount of penetration.
Keep it up. The best way to get better faster is to practice and practice. Once you are done practicing, practice again changing machine settings, material, material thickness and even in different positions. I swear I can lay down some of my best tig welds laying on my back, welding overhead and using my knee to control the pedal (strange).
Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions.