Wet to Dry Conversion....
Oct 21, 2008 | 08:22 PM
#12
+1..Besides our trucks already have a fuel port that you just need to remove the valve stem from and screw on the wet line to it..no tapping into fuel line needed.
Oct 21, 2008 | 08:24 PM
#13
I say go with the wet. I had mine on htere for 2 year with zero leakage problems. Also had long spans of no use, 5 months at a time.
The tuning would be a lot easier IMO on a wet kit, I never even had a nitrous tune when I had my 125 shot. Probly stupid lol, but I got away with it, with no worries of running out of injectors,
The tuning would be a lot easier IMO on a wet kit, I never even had a nitrous tune when I had my 125 shot. Probly stupid lol, but I got away with it, with no worries of running out of injectors,
Oct 22, 2008 | 04:20 AM
#14
I say go with the wet. I had mine on htere for 2 year with zero leakage problems. Also had long spans of no use, 5 months at a time.
The tuning would be a lot easier IMO on a wet kit, I never even had a nitrous tune when I had my 125 shot. Probly stupid lol, but I got away with it, with no worries of running out of injectors,
The tuning would be a lot easier IMO on a wet kit, I never even had a nitrous tune when I had my 125 shot. Probly stupid lol, but I got away with it, with no worries of running out of injectors,
did the same and only hit knock sensor one time id stay with wet for sure!
Oct 22, 2008 | 03:59 PM
#16
CUTE. 
not to start a pissing contest with you, but if you peek at my sig, you might see that i run a dry. i have done lots of homework on dry vs. wet, and chose a dry.
from what i understand, a dry nozzle can be placed anywhere in the intake tract, provided it is located before the IAT sensor, which can be moved.
the closer you get it the the TB, the harder it will hit, similar to the way a wet shot will hit. it is a fairly cheap change that many folks make when running dry kits.
now if you know a lot more than me, correct me if i am wrong here..
for simplicity, a basic kit could mount a nozzle inside of a cone type air filter, in the air box, anywhere pre MAF... but lets not say that it MUST be pre MAF, because it doesnt have to be.
not to start a pissing contest with you, but if you peek at my sig, you might see that i run a dry. i have done lots of homework on dry vs. wet, and chose a dry.
from what i understand, a dry nozzle can be placed anywhere in the intake tract, provided it is located before the IAT sensor, which can be moved.
the closer you get it the the TB, the harder it will hit, similar to the way a wet shot will hit. it is a fairly cheap change that many folks make when running dry kits.
now if you know a lot more than me, correct me if i am wrong here..
for simplicity, a basic kit could mount a nozzle inside of a cone type air filter, in the air box, anywhere pre MAF... but lets not say that it MUST be pre MAF, because it doesnt have to be.
Oct 22, 2008 | 04:03 PM
#17
i ran a 4.8 with full bolt ons, LT's, cam and tune + 125 shot dry and didnt see much over 85-90% IDC with the stock injectors.
they also were plenty of injector for my current engine, i had to upgrade them to keep up with a 370 and dry nitrous, otherwise i wouldnt have.
not sure what your flow rate on your stockers is (2002), i think my stockers (2007) were around 24# give or take.
Oct 22, 2008 | 05:45 PM
#18
CUTE.
not to start a pissing contest with you, but if you peek at my sig, you might see that i run a dry. i have done lots of homework on dry vs. wet, and chose a dry.
from what i understand, a dry nozzle can be placed anywhere in the intake tract, provided it is located before the IAT sensor, which can be moved.
the closer you get it the the TB, the harder it will hit, similar to the way a wet shot will hit. it is a fairly cheap change that many folks make when running dry kits.
now if you know a lot more than me, correct me if i am wrong here..
for simplicity, a basic kit could mount a nozzle inside of a cone type air filter, in the air box, anywhere pre MAF... but lets not say that it MUST be pre MAF, because it doesnt have to be.
not to start a pissing contest with you, but if you peek at my sig, you might see that i run a dry. i have done lots of homework on dry vs. wet, and chose a dry.
from what i understand, a dry nozzle can be placed anywhere in the intake tract, provided it is located before the IAT sensor, which can be moved.
the closer you get it the the TB, the harder it will hit, similar to the way a wet shot will hit. it is a fairly cheap change that many folks make when running dry kits.
now if you know a lot more than me, correct me if i am wrong here..
for simplicity, a basic kit could mount a nozzle inside of a cone type air filter, in the air box, anywhere pre MAF... but lets not say that it MUST be pre MAF, because it doesnt have to be.
Seriously?? Do you not like this guy or something? Do you want him along with whoever believes that post to hurt their motor?
CUTE.
not to start a pissing contest with you, but if you peek at my sig, you might see that i run a dry. i have done lots of homework on dry vs. wet, and chose a dry. Obviously not enough.
from what i understand, a dry nozzle can be placed anywhere in the intake tract, provided it is located before the IAT sensor, which can be moved. Nope. Needs to be before the MAF or no fuel will be added. Only way to get around the MAF is to have something like the new HSW interface controller that just came out not too long ago.
the closer you get it the the TB, the harder it will hit, similar to the way a wet shot will hit. it is a fairly cheap change that many folks make when running dry kits.
I.E. A 150rwhp shot is 150rwhp..a 150rwhp anyway you look at it. What makes it hit harder is a LEAN spike which is something most people would want to aviod.
now if you know a lot more than me, correct me if i am wrong here.. No need..I will for him. 
for simplicity, a basic kit could mount a nozzle inside of a cone type air filter, in the air box, anywhere pre MAF... but lets not say that it MUST be pre MAF, because it doesnt have to be. Again, not true, unless you have the interface controller..Which leads me to ask..Where do you have your Dry Nozzle located at? Before or After the MAF??
not to start a pissing contest with you, but if you peek at my sig, you might see that i run a dry. i have done lots of homework on dry vs. wet, and chose a dry. Obviously not enough.
from what i understand, a dry nozzle can be placed anywhere in the intake tract, provided it is located before the IAT sensor, which can be moved. Nope. Needs to be before the MAF or no fuel will be added. Only way to get around the MAF is to have something like the new HSW interface controller that just came out not too long ago.
the closer you get it the the TB, the harder it will hit, similar to the way a wet shot will hit. it is a fairly cheap change that many folks make when running dry kits.
I.E. A 150rwhp shot is 150rwhp..a 150rwhp anyway you look at it. What makes it hit harder is a LEAN spike which is something most people would want to aviod. now if you know a lot more than me, correct me if i am wrong here..
No need..I will for him. for simplicity, a basic kit could mount a nozzle inside of a cone type air filter, in the air box, anywhere pre MAF... but lets not say that it MUST be pre MAF, because it doesnt have to be.
Again, not true, unless you have the interface controller..Which leads me to ask..Where do you have your Dry Nozzle located at? Before or After the MAF?? I have nothing against dry, but I said it before & I'll say it again..
Some like it dry, I like it wet.
Oct 23, 2008 | 06:37 AM
#20
please tell the class_
-how does the MAF detect the nitrous?
-what EXACT sensors in the MAF detect that something is different than the regular air flowing in, and trigger the ECM to spray more fuel?
-How can these sensors not be moved further up in the intake tract?
-how important is a MAF in our vehicles?
from what i understand, when tuned in SD, you can pretty much toss a MAF. also, from my understanding, the IAT sensor is what picks up the huge difference in temps when nitrous is disharged in the air intake, thus triggering the ECM to compensate through the fuel injectors spraying more fuel..
like i say, i might be wrong, but its been explained to me this way... so please 99silverado5.3, with your infinate knowledge of nitrous function... please explain it to me in a manner that i might understand.
patiently waiting ..