CrewsControl

Good Day Truckers I am glad to be here, ready and willing to learn,

I have bought a low mileage very well taken care of 2005 Chevy Silverado 2WD with the 5.3 LM7 engine (rear gear ratio is just 3.23 currently based on the RPO code but may change to a higher one if necessary). I have since added a custom true dual exhaust (cats still on) with 2 Flowmaster 40s and added an AIRAID Modular Intake Tube. I am looking to add some HP with a custom tune but before I did I decided to look into adding a more aggressive camshaft in an effort to bring out a bit more power.

I have read a lot on the internet recently but why not ask those who have been there and done that so to speak. I know there are also porting and polishing heads, larger intake options, adding long tube headers and even torque converter swaps but man does it start to get overwhelming and there are so many opinions which seem to contradict depending on who is writing the article ect.

This is a daily driver so to speak but normally short distances around town and I do not tow a boat or travel trailer.

BOTTOM LINE: I want a significant increase in power but I am not foolish enough to expect it to be an all-out street racer either for a smaller budget as I am a disabled veteran with a family so sinking a ton of money in it is not an option for me, unfortunately.

*** If there are links I should read in the forum just let me know where to look and I will gladly read them rather than beating a dead horse which I am sure you all get tired of.

Thanks Again For Having Me and For Your Guidance In Advance,
Walter Crews aka Crewscontrol
U.S. Army Retired

FFDP

iTrader: (2)

Honestly any mild camshaft even with factory manifolds will give you a good jump in horsepower. If you picked something in size that was around 208-212/214-218 with a LSA (lobe separation angle) of 114ish it would give you good bump in power and stay very daily driver friendly. Only a guess but I'd say 25-35hp to the tire easy with just a cam swap. (adding headers can gain a few more horsepower and it will be much louder with your current exhaust and more expensive)

Doing that may require slightly larger injectors in most cases as the factory injectors may not support it but it's normally border line. Sometime you end up around 90-95% duty cycle. A custom tune is a must with that too.

I highly suggest different rear end gears. I'd so go straight to some 3.90's or 4.10's rear end gears. The 3.90's will keep the revs slightly lower for cruising speeds but both will offer a huge kick in the pants feel over those highway gears you have now.

CrewsControl

I appreciate your response FFDP, I was hoping you would chime in as I have read on several threads where you seem to be very helpful to others with solid advice

BTR has this CAM DYNAMICS LOW LIFT TRUCK CAM 224/230 112+3 .500" Lift
(ADD SOME PEP TO THAT 5.3L's STEP! Introducing the NSR (no springs required) Truck Camshaft! Want to delete that pesky DOD system? Add some power to your truck? This camshaft is exactly what the budget conscious truck owner is looking for! Independent engine dyno testing showed 66hp INCREASE over the factory camshaft. These are incredible numbers for a camshaft that can operate with (otherwise) stock valvetrain!)

I was also looking at these Cam suppliers prior to finding the one above:
Texas Speed Stage 2 Low Lift 212/218, .550"/.550" Truck Camshaft was recommended by someone but I have written them twice now last week and this week with no response so I am not sure they would get my money

Isky recommended their 271252257
.522" Valve Lift x 252 deg. advertised x 206 deg @ 050 duration
.540" Valve Lift x 257 deg advertised x 212 deg @ 050 duration
113 Deg. Lobe Centers

Melling Recommended their MTC-8 camshaft

Lunati said to call them and they will help me choose a cam

So a gear swap is a must, but for instance, with this cam CAM DYNAMICS LOW LIFT TRUCK CAM 224/230 112+3 .500" Lift states: IN SOME APPLICATIONS MAY NEED AN 2800+ TORQUE CONVERTER,

madmann26

iTrader: (7)

TahoeNate

My lm7 is working pretty good. I used a tsp truck cam and a yank stall

CrewsControl

Well I was led to believe the dual exhaust would open it up better (but now it seems that they were not all that beneficial and just more for sound) - this is why I am getting frustrated because I read one thing then I read the polar opposite, some say do this that and that and this - then another person says no don't do this or that but rather do this. I know there are varying opinions and experiences but there have to be some basic facts of what will work and what will not. These companies say drop in cams NSR but then you say don't use them, are the companies selling stuff that is not accurately portrayed just to sell products (I know it is about making money for them but damn).

I just wanted to boost some usable horsepower without having to basically replace all the major components on the vehicle so far I am looking at new gears, need a new stall converter, long headers, a cam, now with springs and pushrods - this is getting pricey quick, maybe I should have just left the thing stock or leave it as it is. IDK but I think I am more confused than when I started.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

The advice you've been given isn't bad, per se, but some of those are making assumptions.

The NSR cams aren't bad for your intended purposes, but I would still replace them with OEM replacement springs while you're in there (~$100). The mild lift of the cam makes them easier on springs. Spring failures can wreak some havoc. Cams with lift above .600" will need more preventative maintenance and expensive springs that are still not guaranteed. The suggestion that you would need stiffer springs for valve control may be true if you use the engine at high RPMs for an extended period of time (racing), but quick blasts to 6k while merging on the highway shouldn't be a problem in a daily driver.

The BTR cam you called out probably isn't the best of their options for your scenario. The BTR stage 2 truck cam is more similar to the Texas Speed cam @ 212/218 and won't require you to replace your torque converter. Either the Texas Speed or BTR would be my suggestion.

Lowering your rear gear ratio to a 3.73, 3.90, or 4.10 will be easier on your transmission, but will also take a bite out of your gas mileage. With 4.10s you'll probably see around 14mpg with mixed driving (from my experience).

You seem like a responsible enough guy to not be hooning in your culdesac, so your trans should be just fine as long as you're not doing constant brake stands and footbrake launching from red lights 5 times a week.

If your trans ever does need refreshing/rebuilding, then I'd suggest upgrading to a 4L80 as the cost can more easily be justified then.

Richardman1992

iTrader: (5)

ZO6Ted

The most bang for seat of the pants is definitely gears. Since you're on a budget I would do 4.10's since you drive short distances. 3.90's 4.33's possibly also. However I had 4.10's and 32" tire on my 07 with a built 4l60 and still got over 21 mpg on the hwy@ 70mph. Definitely need a shift kit and servo and don't beat the hell out of it. A 4l80 will be a dog out of the hole by comparison with a relatively stock truck because of ratios. Next a mild cam as ffdp suggested and/or a torque converter. Nothing too big since it's a daily. If no cam then just a 2500 would be great. Stay easy on the cam because bigger is never better unless you have a matching bigger converter. Had 2 identical trucks. One had a moderate cam the other had only 1 step warmer. The milder one would beat it every time at the track. The warmer cam would beat the other one on the highway every time. Pick your preference. If you want it great from a dig, gears, traction, converter, mild cam in that order. Of course a tune with whatever.
Lastly, thank you very much for your service and sacrifice for our great country. It's men like you that keep it that way.

RedXray

The best "budget" camshafts are the Elgin Pro Stock line of cams. They have a small grind known inside the "Sloppy Mechanics community" as the "Sloppy Stage I". It's part number E1838P with 216/220 @ 50 duration .560/.560 lift with 114* LSA. It sales for around $230 on ebay with free shipping. You can use the blue chevrolet performance LS6 beehive valve springs good up to .570 lift part number 12499224 for around $75 a set. These Elgin cams are the exact cams that Trick Flow, Jegs and other companies rebox and sell at a much higher price. You will be able to use your stock push rods and spring retainers and also get by with the stock converter.

For a budget set of headers the Speed Engineering stainless 1 3/4" ($249) headers are hard to beat (they are a vendor here). They also have a nice stainless dual exhaust system but be fore warned it's loud even with the full rear exit system. You can just add their ($129) off road Y pipe and tie into your existing exhaust system.

I'm running these headers, true duals, a larger Elgin camshaft with PAC springs and love the performance and sound of my truck plus these "budget" parts helped me money wise for other things like a posi carrier, 410 gears etc. as an old guy (real old) I'm on a budget too.