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5.3l, 6.0l, or 6.2l keep or swap?

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Old 02-18-2021, 09:37 PM
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Question 5.3l, 6.0l, or 6.2l keep or swap?

I'm pushing 170k on somewhat stock 5.3l lmg0 CC gmc sierra 1500. Its the garbage 3.08 gear and g80 locker. Going to regear to 3.73 with truetrac. On 24" 285 40r24. Lowered 2/3 going 3/5. Not important. My question is should I stick with the 5.3l do a afm delete a good choice of torque cam or vvt tsp cam redoing heads, chain oil pump tune etc. Cost would be around 2500 plus labor so around 4-5k on a mildly tired motor. Or do I purchase a brand new l96 6.0l for 5-6k and throw it in maybe throw a mild or tsp vvt cam before its put in. Or do I buy a remanufactured 6.2l l9H do the same for cam as well or not for around the same price of the l96? Problem with the 6.2l is a 2500$ core charge. I do not think my 5.3l would be an acceptable core I would probably have to sell it through the market. Reasons for the l96 is because it's a very reliable motor and it's flex fuel and has VVT and no afm. The l9h 6.2l is the same as well. Its a daily driver vehicle seldom will do WOT pulls. Only do it to pass poeple on highway or to hear the nice engine roar and feel all warm and fuzzy inside. Might pull a fishing boat if the season is right its a 17-18' aluminum hull bass tracker. Didnt really pay attention to the weight. I just feel the truck is a dog just driving around town. Also am worried about the reliability of the 5.3l with high mileage. I know the 6.0l lasts well over 250k miles not sure on the 6.2l. I run Amsoil SS and have universal bypass as well and change oil twice a year. Thays probably not important either. Buying a used engine not knowing what the person did to the engine before me kind of throws my peace of mind out the window. Your suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you.
Old 02-18-2021, 09:59 PM
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170 bothers me 0

I over 200k on a cam'd 5.3 and I can't wait to put the blower back on it

my MR2 has 252k on her and she still pulls like a train. Recently started smoking like one too 😞

Id leave the 5.3, she's just getting warmed up. Cam and tune and gears= whole new truck
Old 02-18-2021, 10:38 PM
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Why do you need to do anything with the cylinder heads?

If anything just toss some new valve seals in it and call it a day. That will save you money. The main parts for the camshaft swap is what like $1,000, I think your $2,500 price tag is high.
Old 02-18-2021, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by FFDP
Why do you need to do anything with the cylinder heads?

If anything just toss some new valve seals in it and call it a day. That will save you money. The main parts for the camshaft swap is what like $1,000, I think your $2,500 price tag is high.
Have to change the oil pump, timing chain, dampener, depending on cam pushrods, springs maybe trunion kit. You got gaskets, lifters valley cover etc. I have to delete the afm crap. Maybe the vvt depending on the cam. Oil pump is a must. Maybe new timing chain. Why not clean up the heads and reseat the valves. Knowing they have alot of carbon buildup. Peace of mind with reliability has a higher price tag. A cam swap / afm delete on a afm 5.3l I think you'll be lucky to pay just 1k on parts alone.
Old 02-18-2021, 11:26 PM
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I guess there are two types of people when it comes to doing stuff.

I'm in the if it ain't broke don't fix it side.

I just went on Texas Speed and came up with $1,250 for almost everything a person would need minus a rocker trunnion kit.

That was camshaft, springs, pushrods, head gaskets, lifters/trays, valley plate, VVT delete cover with new cam gear, timing chain set, oil pump, head bolts and probably a few other minor things. Add in another $100-200 in random gaskets like maybe valve cover gaskets, valley plate gasket, camshaft retainer plate/gasket.


Hell, some of us would come out even cheaper than that. Oil pumps either work or they don't, if it was working I wouldn't touch it. LS stock timing chains all have slack, it's what they do. There is other stuff I'd do too but it would be frowned upon on the internet lol.

Last edited by FFDP; 02-18-2021 at 11:35 PM.
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Old 02-19-2021, 05:38 AM
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Keep the 5.3 and delete and cam it then drive the snot out of it...
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Old 02-19-2021, 06:27 AM
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Originally Posted by FFDP
I guess there are two types of people when it comes to doing stuff.

I'm in the if it ain't broke don't fix it side.

I just went on Texas Speed and came up with $1,250 for almost everything a person would need minus a rocker trunnion kit.

That was camshaft, springs, pushrods, head gaskets, lifters/trays, valley plate, VVT delete cover with new cam gear, timing chain set, oil pump, head bolts and probably a few other minor things. Add in another $100-200 in random gaskets like maybe valve cover gaskets, valley plate gasket, camshaft retainer plate/gasket.


Hell, some of us would come out even cheaper than that. Oil pumps either work or they don't, if it was working I wouldn't touch it. LS stock timing chains all have slack, it's what they do. There is other stuff I'd do too but it would be frowned upon on the internet lol.
Thats understandable. I just feel like I need to xhabge the pil pump because of miles at it reads 18-20 psi at hot idle. I figured that's OK. There are things I would probably do too that would be frowned upon. I appreciate the help. I called a few shop that do installs, they all seems to recommend new oil pump, springs and chain, also getting the heads cleaned up. I don't know why they don't do that in house. I was just wondering if a stronger engine with more displacement would be better then the 5.3l. Usually get a reasonable amount of more power you have to either up the displacement, or get a cam that would perform better. Just don't want to lose anything from 1500 to 3000 rpms.
would rather gain alot more in that range.
Old 02-19-2021, 06:56 AM
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There are cams for that power range, talk to guys at BTR or summit for ideas on proper specs. If your after low end grunt just add a PD blower to the stock engine and roll on with it.
Old 02-19-2021, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by smokinlmm
There are cams for that power range, talk to guys at BTR or summit for ideas on proper specs. If your after low end grunt just add a PD blower to the stock engine and roll on with it.
lol they Eddie, maggie, or whoopee blowers are expensive. Same cost of a new engine lol. Plus they definitely won't past 200k miles. I thought about it though. I like that sound they make when driving. Thought about a turbo setup too. Though I got too much money in the exhaust already that I spent awhile ago. And already have a set of hooker blackerheart headers that are jethot coated. Those I would have to sell to run a turbo setup and redo the exhaust I have. Have the stock cats and about after a few inches after the cats it's custom 2.5 inch stainless mandrel bend to an H pipe and dumped before the rear axle to a borla pro xs dual in/out
Old 02-19-2021, 08:48 AM
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Just because Im a "troll" and a blower nerd,

I just want to point out that:

A) the Roots blower was invented by the Roots brothers in ~1859 as an air mover for building ventilation
B) The screw type compressor is used in basically EVERY high end, high volume, "standard" pressure air compressor on the market
C) Millions of vehicles from MB, GM, Ford, Nissan, Jaguar, Volvo, BMW and Fiat (to name a few) have been twin screwed/Roots'd from the factory
D) You haven't hit 200k yet, so why do you care if the blower can?

In closing; it is a VERY reliable/robust system that has over a century of development behind it and billions of miles under it. In this case, I would 100% trust a blower over a turbo if all you want is miles and smiles. Pop the hood to change the oil and close it again for another 6mo. To claim a roots wont make it 200k is just ignorance


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