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Mar 21, 2009 | 01:03 AM
#53
Sounds good.
Also, do you use a crank pulley puller as they show on LS1howto?
They also mention something about a longer crank bolt when getting the crank pulley back seated...something about the original one stripping out the threads on the crankshaft???
Also, do you use a crank pulley puller as they show on LS1howto?
They also mention something about a longer crank bolt when getting the crank pulley back seated...something about the original one stripping out the threads on the crankshaft???
Mar 21, 2009 | 01:08 AM
#54
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Rent a Chrysler pulley puller, it works great, autozone has them.. For my bolt, i took my old bolt and but it and welded in a piece of all thread to lenghten it, i have used it about 4 times with no problems...
Mar 21, 2009 | 01:58 AM
#57
With the pulley completely removed from the crank, the bolt no longer reaches. So you can either get a longer crank bolt to get it started onto the crank, and then switch to a factory length bolt, or use a few other methods.
Some people heat the balancer in an oven and then slide it on, and some use a peice of wood and a hammer to get it started. There's always more than one way to skin a cat.
Some people heat the balancer in an oven and then slide it on, and some use a peice of wood and a hammer to get it started. There's always more than one way to skin a cat.
Mar 21, 2009 | 02:59 AM
#58
Gotcha. Thanks for clearing that up.
I actually checked out Alldata for the official GM method of re-installing the crank pulley. They use a special tool which has a threaded rod and then nut on it to get the pulley started and then onto the crank. Then they pull that tool off, stick in the old crank bolt, and turn that one to 240lb/ft and then remove it, put the new one in and torque to spec. On ls1tech, someone has managed to copy this tool and sells it for $45
I actually checked out Alldata for the official GM method of re-installing the crank pulley. They use a special tool which has a threaded rod and then nut on it to get the pulley started and then onto the crank. Then they pull that tool off, stick in the old crank bolt, and turn that one to 240lb/ft and then remove it, put the new one in and torque to spec. On ls1tech, someone has managed to copy this tool and sells it for $45
Last edited by GMCtrk; Mar 21, 2009 at 05:06 AM.
Mar 24, 2009 | 05:49 PM
#60
Its not a bad idea to throw a little RTV in the corner on both sides where the block, timing cover and oil pan meet. Ive seen it leak there before, so I do it on all cam swaps now.