INTERNAL ENGINE MODIFICATIONS Valvetrain |Heads | Strokers | Design | Assembly

Zo6 Cam?

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Old 08-23-2008, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by MPFD
Are you serious? This is why I hate the internet. Maybe you should call Scoggin Dicky and run that by them. A 2002 and later ZO6 cam needs 7.450 pushrods. And yes genius total valve lift will be effected by trying to run stock length rods. 7.4 rods will probably work at the expense of lifter durability. I think you should go be an engineer for GM cause if you woulda told em that their standard 7.4 length pushrods were fine they could have saved millions in engineering and parts manufacturing expenses.
Maybe you should spend some time learning more about what has been used and what works rather than just getting your info from someone selling you something. All the the Gen III's TJ sets up for example use 7.4" pushrods. He builds some of the quicker vehicles you'll find. I commonly use the stock pushrods for the setups using LS6 springs and lift under .580. I have not yet had one bend a pushrod or have lifter failure due to this. Many others on LS1 tech use 7.4" pushrods which are only .005" longer than the stock pushrods. The LS6 used .6MM longer valves to make up the differnce and the same pushrods as normal Gen III SB's and get the desired pre-load wanted. That is .023622" longer. On the pushrod side that equates to .013895 longer needed. The base circle of the cam itself is only .7mm smaller (19.7mm as compared to 19.0mm) which is .35mm difference in pushrod movement.That makes the lobes being .0137795" shorter. If you use a 7.4" pushrod that comes out to .008895" short of what GM was shooting for with the valve length difference. The hydralic lifter can make up for .009" difference in pre-load.

With a 3600 stall, 175 shot, drag radials, cam, tuning, and built trans you ran a 13.1. I'm not sure just how happy you should be with your setup.
Old 08-23-2008, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 1Topgun
If you believe that pushrod length has no effect on valve lift, try running, let's say, a 7.000" pushrod in a LS1 or LS6 and tell me how much the valve will open.

That length is an exaggeration of too short, but it's just an example of what a change can make.

if you have a solid lifter and do not adjust the rocker to take up the slack then yes you will have less lift. the hydrolic lifters take up the diference and you will get full lift even with the smaller base circle.

that being said i would still go with the longer pushrods for the 02 and newer cam. i have seen a couple of posts around here that lead me to belive you might miss out on some power by running the preload too close to one limit or the other.

for a NA 2001 zo6 cam i would go with just the cam and the yellow springs.

for a NA 2002+ zo6 cam(smaller base circle) i would go with the cam, yellow springs and longer pushrods.

if either one of those set ups were boosted i would skip the yellow springs and go with the patriot golds or some other high quality spring.

not sure if it would be worth spining that cam past 6500rpm on the NA set up but if you planed on trying that i would go with the patriot gold springs just to help offset the heavier valves. i dont think that cam will want to spin that high but maybe you are out of gear or something and plan on spining it a little higher than you normaly would just to get thru the lights. if that is the case and you think you will be up there in the rpm range then i would go with the better springs, along with some other parts...
Old 08-24-2008, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 1Topgun
If you believe that pushrod length has no effect on valve lift, try running, let's say, a 7.000" pushrod in a LS1 or LS6 and tell me how much the valve will open.

That length is an exaggeration of too short, but it's just an example of what a change can make.
The valve will open all the way as long as the proper lifter preload is set. Hell, you can run any damn size pushrod you want and as long as your lifter preload is set correctly you will always get the same amount of valve lift.
Old 08-24-2008, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Beatdown Z
The valve will open all the way as long as the proper lifter preload is set. Hell, you can run any damn size pushrod you want and as long as your lifter preload is set correctly you will always get the same amount of valve lift.
That's the point... there will be NO lifter preload if the pushrod doesn't even touch the rocker arm, as with one that's .4" too short. Unless you can come up with an LS1 valve lifter with an extra .4" of overall length.
Old 08-25-2008, 01:46 AM
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I'll run 7" pushrods, no problem! Just give me .300" taller lifters, deck the block and heads a total of .100 In all honesty, that would probably make more power as long as the pistons don't bump the heads.
Old 08-25-2008, 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by 1Topgun
That's the point... there will be NO lifter preload if the pushrod doesn't even touch the rocker arm, as with one that's .4" too short. Unless you can come up with an LS1 valve lifter with an extra .4" of overall length.

i think your missing the point. the stock lifter has enough adjustment to take up the slight diference in 02+zo6 cam base circle and still have some preload. we are not talking about extreme conditions here, we are talking about a 02+ z06 cam.
Old 08-26-2008, 08:45 AM
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You sound like a knowledgable source running 14's. But we run the 1/4 mile here. I would say your a valvetrain expert running ls6 springs with the cam in you sig. It's amazing how knowledgable idiots sound when they have 3300 posts. Maybe you should spend some more time in the shop and less at your computer you might learn somthing valuable first hand. If anybody actually read the first post, What was in question was using stock lm7 pushrods, which is not a good idea. If your gonna buy pushrods anyway why not buy the right sized ones. And by the way it was a 13.19 @ 102 on a bone stock baby cam only motor with a 150 rwhp shot, first time out this year. Since it's run in the twelves. But my life doesn't revolve around trying to impress **** ant moran's that are to cheap to buy proper valvetrain components.
Old 08-26-2008, 09:35 AM
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I would watch who you are talking to there, and no your times are not impressive. Zippy ran that pass with the stock cam and just a CAI, cat back and tuning. He will be running close to your trap speed with the cam swap lol, even with the LS6 springs.

I built a cam only 6l with a 6speed in a rcsb 2000 Silverado that trapped 108 with 20" Boyd's. On a 150 shot he would go 118+.

Also before you start on me I built a tuned the 3950lb GTO that went 10.662139.83 with a stock Lq9 long block save for valve springs. 825whp, that the highest gen3/4 numbers yet on a stock long block. I am not just a interwebs warrior and neither is Zippy.
Old 08-26-2008, 09:37 AM
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Oh, forgot I built and tuned chris B's, 2003 Silverado SS.

Lq9, ls6 cam, 7.400" PUSH RODS, and dual golds

656whp@14psi

11.8@119 @19psi, 5800+lb race weight with 22" wheels.
Old 08-26-2008, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by MPFD
And by the way it was a 13.19 @ 102 on a bone stock baby cam only motor with a 150 rwhp shot, first time out this year. Since it's run in the twelves. But my life doesn't revolve around trying to impress **** ant moran's that are to cheap to buy proper valvetrain components.
soo, 13.19 with a cam, stall, 150shot, tuning? back when my truck was 3 weeks old i ran into the 13's with nothing but a 100shot on a 4.8. seems like your doing something wrong.

just messing with ya but you are being pretty confrontational, tossing out the "idiot" name and all. your talking down to some smart guys and it is making you look bad. entertaining though so keep it up if your want.


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