Hello, I own an '03 Avalanche that I am starting to embark on a journey to build this out to something that will work really well "off road".

What I am currently looking at is that I bought an LQ9 out of an '05 Escalade. I have since completely torn down this engine to the block. I haven't removed the barbell from the front yet or the big water drain. There appears to be something similar in the back that looks like the front barbell but the LS rebuild book only talks about the one up front. Haven't removed the large water drain yet only because I don't have an Allen head bit big enough.

This will be my first motor rebuild but I feel confident since I do this sort of thing in my day job. Just not as complex. I am hoping to over build an engine to support ~700HP once blown.
At this point I am looking for help in picking the components for my rebuild in this truck.

I don't have much experience in how to build a block for lots of power. I know I will also need serious driveline upgrades as well but for this message I am just looking for building this engine.
I plan to install either one SC mounted in place of the Intake (M122, TVS 1900, or TVS 2300). If one doesn't work well enough then remote mounting two... But the boost is down the road for now.

I do have two "workbook" books that go through the steps of building an LS engine so I feel confident with that. Just no so much with the parts selection.

So what my current considerations are:
Want to go stroker, but one I don't have to machine anything to clearance things.
Forged to handle the power.
ARP bolts throughout to handle the power load.
New Heads that flow better. (Currently has Cathedral heads.)
CAM shaft intended for Boost but will still run NA.
I will be running N/A at first but plan to boost so I need a CAM that will run either way.
Low compression due to planning for boost.

Curious if the Original LQ9 components are worth anything since the LQ9 "Vortex-Max" engine had about 50hp more than the LQ4 that uses the same block.

This engine will likely stay N/A until everything else around it is built up but my original 5.3 has 275k miles on it and is still loosing coolant even after replacing the original CASTEC 706 cracked heads. So I thought it would be a great time to build a new motor for it. Just not sure what components to buy for it. Wouldn't mind working with a performance shop that builds a lot of these to select parts but other than the machining I plan to do all of the installation work myself.

Thanks for your time and hopefully for your positive suggestions!

Since this is my first motor rebuild I may need some help along the way, although the books seem pretty full coverage. More or less believe I need help in picking components for this build.

Rodney

 

There are a lot of ways to skin this cat.

First and foremost, what is your budget? We're all pissing in the wind until we know what you want to spend.

 

Sure, At this time I am estimating the rotating assembly, CAM, heads to be around $4k.

That is the ballpark figure I am looking at. If I can do it for less and support a durable build that will get me to close to 700hp when blown I would be really happy.
But based on some initial research online I figured that was about the ballpark for me to build what I want.

Note that number does not include the ARP bolts, gaskets etc... Just the actual Stroked/Forged rotating assembly, Cam and head package. Nothing wrong with the heads on this engine that I am aware of, but by the time I get them cleaned up, put new springs etc on them I am probably better off buying aftermarket heads that are better anyhow.

Rodney

 

They make stroker kits that don't require machine work?

For what it's worth, if that 2005 engine you have came with H beam style rods, those will handle 800+hp already. Also if they came with 243/799 heads, those are some of the best heads on the market when not talking CNC heads from a vendor.

 

The barbell is inside the oil galley at the back of the block behind the rear cover. Up front is just a plug pressed into the opposite end of that same oil galley. The 2005 LQ9 comes with the upgraded Gen 4 rods, so yes if you choose not to use them, the rotating assembly will be of value to someone. The stock LQ9 bottom end is good for 1,000 HP with the rod bolts being the weak link. The LQ9's 317 heads are not the best for a N/A application with their large combustion chambers, they flow well and some like using them for boosted applications but aftermarket heads are far superior.

 

i think your budget is on the light side, your going to spend $700 to $1000 on gaskets, ARP, oil pump and timing chain, good pistons are about $600 to $800, cam/springs/lifters/pushrods around $800/$1000 so thats $2100 to $2,700 right there with out head, injectors or machine work plus thats using your stock rods if you go aftermarket rods your looking at $500/$650 more

keeping the budget under $4k is doable but your going to need to score some sweet deal on good used parts

 

don't even bother with a 112 or 122 if you're looking for 700whp... not that it ain't been done, but you'll have to spin the snot outta that sucker & deal with more associated heat to get there.
TVS2300, 2650, or a Whipple 2.9 (or bigger) are good starting points... but if you're looking for a budget build, that's gonna be a waiting game for someone to give up a used one.

then ya gotta think about fuel. gonna need a bigger pump & injectors at a minimum for that kind of mojo.

then there's the trans... good luck keeping a 4L60/65 alive behind a 3ton truck with that kind of torque. there are a number of build & swap options out there - just make sure you're factoring that into your budget, too.

kudos for jumping in with both feet & having a specific goal in mind... just understand there's usually a lot more than meets the eye when you start going down roads like this.
...but that's why there are plenty of helpful dudes on here to talk to

 

and unless you're planning to run a bunch of boost all the time, you don't really need to drop the compression ratio. that'll just make it feel less responsive for normal driving.

 

Either build it for boost or NA there is no riding the fence when it comes down to it.

 

You still didn't tell us your budget.

It would behoove you to have the block checked by a machine shop.